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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I recently got an old Gpz305. Spent some time outside, missing a few minor things but most of it is there. I can get the starter to crank with 12 volts on it, but when I put power on the battery terminals and turn the key, the bike won't turn on (no lights etc)... None of the fuses are blown and everything on the harness looks okay, plugged in well, etc..

does anyone have any suggestions of where i should poke my multimeter around to trace the issue? Thanks for the help!
 

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Always start where you know you have voltage.

Hook your meter's ground to the frame and then touch the other to + of the battery.

12V?
Yes, move on to the next connection from the + of the battery.
No? Well, there's yer problem.

Keep doing that all the way to the switch and then from the switch to the starter...at some point, you're going to lose that 12v and it will probably be early on as the bike is electrically dead; meaning it's a major junction that is having a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the advice! i eventually found the issue. one of the fuses had a bit of gunk on the terminals, such that i couldnt see it just by looking at it. i took your suggestion and followed the wire fron the battery straight to the fuse. i replaced it with one of the extras that was in the fusebox.

Now I need to get spark. unfortunately i'm missing a coil, however the guy i bought it from gave me two that were laying around, (presumably?) from a kz. Will coils from a different bike work the same, or are coils proprietary to the bike? The coils i have are a fair bit bigger than the stock ones.

thanks again for helping me out!
 

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Interchanging electrical parts can be a problem; you want to check the original specs against the replacement part.

All coils work the same, but not all coils are the same..

Made up example of a fictitious electronic part:

Stock Part specs = 12V, 2A, 24W

Non Stock part A = 12v, 1A, 12W

Non Stock part B = 12V, 3A, 36W

If you installed A, it would burn up.
If you installed B, it would most likely work.

Neither A or B is Stock, but B would work..the electrical specs are what matters...you have to know the original specs and compare them to the non-original parts specs....you want them to match or the replacement's load handling must exceed stock...voltage must match.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
so, if i understand correctly, by connecting a non-stock coil, I am really only risking blowing the coil? I searched the part number, the coils are off of a Gl500, however i can't find any of the specs for them online. would i be on the right track to assume that, being from a bigger bike, they have higher tolerances?

The stock coils only seem to have one wire going to them, while these from the GL each have 2 wires (one for hot and one for ground, i'm assuming). I'm don't really know much about electronics (as you can probably gather).. I'm not sure how to go about splicing them or if they would even work.

I'm getting spark on the one stock coil that I have, so I know i'm getting closer. Just don't know if I should waste time trying to rig these coils if I'm going to need to find a stock one anyway. Thanks again!!
 

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so, if i understand correctly, by connecting a non-stock coil, I am really only risking blowing the coil?
Well, ya never know...

Too hard to say what is going to happen. It's best to stick with what the engineers originally intended since you "don't really know much about electronics".

Try some motorcycle parts websites; enter your bikes info and see what they come up with. Then, if you want used, you have a number and/or specs to search for...or you can just buy new.
 
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