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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I am a new rider and I just purchased my first bike, a 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R.

When I bought this bike, it ran just fine for the first day. It seemed to not want to start at first, but it was most likely because of how cold it was (this is a carbureted bike) or the battery being uncharged, the seller mentioned both.

So, my issue: The bike was pulled into the driveway, and we turned it off. It essentially died after that, so we assumed that it should just have the battery tested and eventually swapped. I now run a brand new 12V Caltric battery that should work as intended, as it was correctly installed and charged enough to start the bike. Along with the battery, we determined it needed a new solenoid relay piece, so we replaced it with a Caltric one that matched the battery, fit well, easy install. Before these parts were installed, the bike would show lights on the dash and give the dreaded relay click sound (which is what led us to replace that relay). Now, we hear no click or effort to turn over from the bike. All connections to the battery are clean, tight, etc. Last I checked, my fuses aren’t blown. Before replacing parts, we attempted to jump the bike, which showed us that the previous battery was toast. Could this have shot a fuse? I haven’t been able to check on the bike as it is at another residence and i’m quarantined for the coronavirus, but my big question here is, why would this bike not start? It has brand new parts, yet now it won’t even turn over. What are some key things to look for when your bike won’t even attempt to turn over? I’m assuming this is electrical. Any tips or pointers to look at stuff would help me greatly. I’m hoping it’s something simple. Also, tapping the starter came to no avail, and now; again, it’s not even turning over. Help!!
 

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Retired twice: Navy and as a govt contractor
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Did you try and jump it from a running car battery? If so you probably blew the main fuse. You will probably need a schematic to find it. Good luck.
 

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If the relay was determined to be bad because of the "Dreaded relay click", it was most likely fine and the reason it was clicking was because of a dead battery. If this is the case I would put the original relay back in and see if the good fully charged battery will crank it over, as the after market relay may not be up to par. Don't the 250's have the main fuse in the relay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did you try and jump it from a running car battery? If so you probably blew the main fuse. You will probably need a schematic to find it. Good luck.
Yes, actually twice. Now that I look back I see that this wasn’t the greatest idea after researching why you shouldn’t, haha. I will have a look at some electrical diagram work tonight, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If the relay was determined to be bad because of the "Dreaded relay click", it was most likely fine and the reason it was clicking was because of a dead battery. If this is the case I would put the original relay back in and see if the good fully charged battery will crank it over, as the after market relay may not be up to par. Don't the 250's have the main fuse in the relay?
From what I read this relay I purchased works fine in many other 250s per the review. I will look into replacing its fuse, and we’ll swap relays and see if this is the issue. If not, i’m going to scan with a multimeter. Thanks!
 

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If that doesn't work check all your safety switches. Bad safety switches being a common cause for what your describing. Although in your case I would find it unlikely for one to go out at the exact same time a solenoid was replaced, but you never know.
 
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