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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm new to this forum. i hope someone can help.

My boulevard has been acting pretty funny. It wouldn't start, it just made a clicking sound so i bought a new starter. Come to find out, the starter was fine and i wasted my money. Next, i tried the battery. I put a charger on it and let it charge for a while. Still the same clicking sound. The lights and everything were coming on. I pulled the side covers off and touched the contacts on the starter relay and it started right up. I figured this had to be it, so i bought a new starter relay. The same thing happened on my Honda 300ex and it worked when i changed the starter relay. Well, i got the starter relay changed and now i have no power coming to the speedometer, no lights, etc. It would make the clicking sound and had power coming to the lights and speedometer until i changed the starter relay. When i touch the two contacts on the new starter relay, it still starts right up. Has anyone had this problem? If so, how did you get the power back to the lights and speedometer?
 

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Suzukis appear to have plenty of issues with electrical connections, and they have to be clean and tight from the battery to the rest of the system. Another thing on your C90 that can make it click the starter but not crank is the decompression system; a friend just adjusted his for the first time, after having increasing no-crank issues, where, randomly, the relay would click, but the starter wouldn't turn the engine over.
But, since you changed the starter relay and now have no power, something was left unattached, or a wire has broken. Double check the wiring from the battery terminals back, including the ground connections from the negative terminal; often overlooked, but it can cause many problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think there's a short or something, because i have looked at every connection i can find and everything seems to be good. This happened to me before, but i don't remember what i did. I was hoping someone else on the forum had the same problem and remembered what to do. Thanks anyway.
 

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Troublemaker
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I don't know about the C90, but on the M109 there is a couple plugs under the tank that can come loose. As far as just clicking, that is either a weak battery or a loose ground if you have changed the starter and relay. Just because it's a new battery does not mean it is a good battery.

As far as the lights and speedo, I would bet you have a blown fuse now.
 

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ZAMM Fanatic
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The way you diagnose a no-crank situation is by voltage dropping the 2 affected circuits

1) The circuit from B+ to the solenoid+ post (the big fat red cable) and your B- to frame ground connection.

2) The circuit through the main fuse, ignition switch, starter switch, to the starter terminal on the solenoid.

Let's say you've got 12.6 volts, a fully charged battery.

But one of these two circuits is only receiving, say, 9.2 volts. So it clicks or is silent instead of cranking.

Voltage dropping a circuit is the process of backtracking to find the corroded connection, dirty switch contact, too-thin wire, bad ground, whatever, that adds unwanted resistance to the circuit.

A voltage drop OCCURS when current flows through an unwanted resistance.

Let's say you've got a loose ground strap that adds .04 ohms of resistance to your starting circuit. If your starter pulls 50 amps, that unwanted resistance causes a 2.0 volt voltage drop, (50 * .04) = 2.0

So instead of the starter getting 12.6 it's getting 10.6. Below 9 they usually won't spin...

But you can only measure a voltage drop WHILE the circuit is energized, and current is flowing.

So let's say the contacts in your starter switch are dirty, corroded.

You put the black lead of your meter on B-, and put the red lead on the starter terminal on the solenoid, and then press the starter switch. (Ahh, yeah, be sure you're in neutral, etc.) If your battery is at 12.6 you should be getting AT LEAST 12.3 volts at the starter terminal.

If not, start backtracking to see where the voltage is getting lost --- the main fuse, the ignition switch, the starter switch, etc.

You can start throwing $tarters, $olenoids, $witches at a problem, doing detour wiring and get lucky or you can learn how to correctly voltage drop circuits and be able to DIAGNOSE just about any electrical problem.

See: http://www.motorcycleforum.com/showthread.php?p=1201834#post1201834
 

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Ya know, I'm not there, I'm not intimately familiar with this bike's wirinig, I can't see what you did, I have to mind-read, read-between the lines, guess...

Did you buy a FACTORY starter relay or a generic?

It sounds to me like you blew a fuse "touching the two starter relay terminals together."

And I have no idea what you mean by this statement. Most starter/solenoid combos have 3 posts. One for the fat red wire from the battery goes to. The second is the starter itself, apply 12V there using a jumper cable (or shorting a screwdriver across from the one the red cable goes to) and it spins. The third is the switch terminal, and if you apply 12V to it, it engages the solenoid which sends 12V to the starter FROM the fat red wire.

Which two are you shorting? Can you upload a picture?

Throwing part$ at a problem is an expensive way to diagnose them. Do you have any friends who work on bikes who should be able to help you diagnose this in 10 minutes or less?

You've already ruled out bad battery, bad starter, and replaced the solenoid, so that pretty much leaves bad wiring and bad switch. Like a loose ground strap from your battery to the frame, or ... wrong solenoid...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm not sure if it's a factory starter relay or not. All of the fuses are good. I connected the red and black together using a screwdriver and it starts right up, even with no power to the rest of the bike. I know throwing parts at it is not a good idea, but someone else told me it was the starter. I bought the relay because it was super cheap. I didn't do the screwdriver thing to the new starter relay. My Honda 300 ex did the same thing. I was starting it by touching the red to the black with a screwdriver. I took the starter relay off of my crappy Honda 300 and switched it to my good one, and it starts like it is supposed to. Now the crappy Honda starts the same way with the screwdriver. That was the old problem on the Suzuki. The new problem is no power to the rest of the bike. Like you said, it has to be bad wiring. I couldn't post a pic. The forum wouldn't let me.
 

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Im having similar issues as well ...

I have replaced the battery, solenoid and spark plugs. I have checked all the fuses and cleaned the posts and cable connections at the battery ... I have even did the whole 1st gear with no key on push backwards pop the clutch thing and still nothing ... does everything its suppose to right up until pushing the electric start switch and nothing ... Had two bikes with similar issues sitting in my shed/garage ... both acted the same way, both had everything changed and replaced the same ... one bike started up after some rocking back and forth and gear shifting and is still starting, but 2nd bike wont start ... any ideas? ... Was planning on taking 2nd bike into trade it for a newer larger bike but they wont give me anything for this one if it aint running ... ... :confused:
 

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It's running ... YESSS!!

I gave it the good ol' college try so to speak ... After rolling it backwards across the concrete patio and nothing working there I decided "what the heck" and rolled it forward with the clutch squeezed, got a bit of speed, put it in 1st and "popped" the clutch with the start button pressed and key turned on ... Fired up, killed it in my excitement by putting kick stand down while in gear, but put it in neutral and it started right up ... hope this helps someone else ... I'm outta here!! I'm going riding ... :D :D :D ... WOO HOO!!
 

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DZ, you may need to adjust the decompression system; I helped a friend set his up, as he was confused by the instructions, so read them very carefully - twice - before starting. His instructions were actually incorrect in one place, and getting the rear valve set wasn't as simple as they said. I went for the goal of the instructions, rather than the letter, to get them right.
 

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Hi, I'm new to this forum. i hope someone can help.

My boulevard has been acting pretty funny. It wouldn't start, it just made a clicking sound so i bought a new starter. Come to find out, the starter was fine and i wasted my money. Next, i tried the battery. I put a charger on it and let it charge for a while. Still the same clicking sound. The lights and everything were coming on. I pulled the side covers off and touched the contacts on the starter relay and it started right up. I figured this had to be it, so i bought a new starter relay. The same thing happened on my Honda 300ex and it worked when i changed the starter relay. Well, i got the starter relay changed and now i have no power coming to the speedometer, no lights, etc. It would make the clicking sound and had power coming to the lights and speedometer until i changed the starter relay. When i touch the two contacts on the new starter relay, it still starts right up. Has anyone had this problem? If so, how did you get the power back to the lights and speedometer?
I'm gonna take a shot in the dark here, but what I'm thinking would cause EXACTLY what you are describing. Is it possible you have the starter solenoid installed backwards??

Try this... disconnect the two fat cables from the solenoid, (DO NOT LET THE RED ONE TOUCH ANYTHING METAL, or disconnect the battery ground first!!) and look closely at the solenoid. Embossed in the plastic casing next to each terminal should be a letter. One is a "B", the other is an "M". The positive cable from the positive battery terminal needs to attach to the solenoid terminal marked "B". The other fat cable (usually black) runs directly to the starter and connects to the solenoid terminal marked "M". I may be grasping at fairy dust, but I've seen peeps make this mistake before with the same result you are experiencing. Let us know....
 
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