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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2002 BMW R1150RS that has a round charging connector on the side of the bike. It is for plugging in a battery trickle charger, such as one made by BMW.

The port on my bike no longer seems to be working. I cleaned it in case it had oxidation, but that did not help. When the charger is plugged in, there is no charge going to the battery. There is also no voltage across the port's terminals.

I can't find this port on the wiring diagram in the Chilton manual.

Does anyone know about this port and why it would not be working? I guess I can check to see if there is a blown fuse.

Richard
 

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Zip
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2,989 Posts
Yeah, check for a blown fuse. I don't have access to my schematics right now but I'll check tonight when I get home and see if I can give you some pointers.
 

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On The Road Again!
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My guess is that one of the wires going to the battery broke.
My other guess is that someone added that to the bike and it
didn't come from the factory like that.
My '99 Goldwing has the same port on the left saddlebag.
The previous owner added it for two reasons, 1. To plug in
his electric clothing. 2. to plug in the battery tender when
the bike is parked.
Open the side of the bike and trace the wires. I'll bet
one of 'em is broken or loose, or corroded.
 

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Zip
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So I checked my Clymer manual. That accessory jack doesn't show up on the wiring diagram for your bike. But also, it doesn't show up on the diagram for my R1150RT either. Looks like you're on your own for tracing this. Sorry I couldn't help more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, it was a blown fuse. I did not expect that, but replaced the fuse and it works fine now. Strange that it does not show up in the electrical schematic. It shares a fuse with the clock.

Thanks for the help!

Richard
 

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American Legion Rider Staff Administrator
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It shares a fuse with the clock.
That just might have been the wire some previous owner selected to add an aftermarket plug because in his voltage testing that was the easiest continuous hot wire to get at. Or there might have been an extra undocumented hot wire from the factory because that wiring harness was used on another model but not on yours.

And thanks much for telling us what the solution was. Far too many leave their questions unanswered if no one here has an answer and we all learn if they would tell us.
 

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Zip
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I found another schematic, created by Doug Raymond for the R1150RT. It's copyrighted so I won't post a link, but if you Google you'll find it. This schematic shows the power outlets (the RT has two of them) wired directly to the battery through fuse F3, which indeed is shared with the RID (for the clock, I'm pretty sure, since it requires continuous power regardless of the position of the ignition key). Chances are the wiring is similar for the RS model.
 
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