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A legend in his own mind
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Discussion Starter #1
I have reason to believe the float levels are wrong on my 83 KZ 1100 Spectre.

Does anyone know (have access to) the proper float level? I'd like to check them but I'm not about to buy a rebuild kit just for the info. I'm also not quite able to get a manual yet. I'll do what I can for free fer now.

Thanks
 

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A legend in his own mind
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks slumlord, but I can't seem to open to read?
I tried to post the question to Google, found nothing useful for this bike. I'll probably have to breakdown and buy a manual I guess.
 

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Too bad, but that often happens with "free" downloaded manuals. Many times asking the question on the open internet will lead you to other forums other than this one,so naturally I cannot post those even if they do show up. Maybe try posting something like specification for float height of xyz bike or forum for xyz bike. Maybe I can poke around and find something to send you in a PM...

In case you haven't noticed,I enjoy the challenge...
 

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KZ 1100 Spectre? The only adjustment that is nessesary for float valves is that they open fully(make sure the pin drops all the way out of the inlet) when the gas in the bowl drops about half way, if your pin isn't opening fully, when you go up hill, your engine drinks up all the gas in the bowl, the engine will stutter until the bowl fills again. to far open, and your idle will rev everytime you have to refill the bowl on start up, and there is a return jet, that sends spare carb gas back to the bowl, it will plug up, and the engine will flood. As a rule of thumb, there will be a defined area inside the bowl, that is a suitable gas reservior, make sure the floats are about at the top of this level when the the pin is free. Should be about 1/8" of play from up to down at the pin.
 

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A legend in his own mind
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Discussion Starter #6
Maybe that's my issue, it runs rich enough that a cyl or two are sputtering at low rpm. Once above 25k - 3k it cleans up and launches.
So you're saying there is no "too high" float level? Any other carburetor I've worked on or heard of would have issue if float wasn't set properly. If so then great, I'll pursue other things
 

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I've seen so FEW problems with float level I can count 'em on ONE hand, and that's working on lawnmowers, scooters, cars, motorcycles, etc.

Usually it's a shot needle & seat that sticks, or a float thats perforated and sinks, even ran into a styro-foam like VESPA float that would get saturated and sink --- in gas, but NOT in the water I used to test 'em for leaks. That one ALMOST got the better of me!

I'd be hard pressed to even REMEMBER a vehicle whose bad running behavior was "fixed" by adjusting float level.

Not that it's impossible, but... check / replace that needle & seat first.. and check fuel flow VOLUME if it's a problem at higher loads/rpms.
 

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Save them all!
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Ya, I really have to agree with wade. Yes, set the float level properly, but more likely I would look at the needle and seat (worn or dirty) or something else.

Check the float(s) aren't sunk or filled with gas if they're that type.
 

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A legend in his own mind
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Discussion Starter #9
Needles and seats new, so I'm fairly sure that isn't it. Floats weighed ok but possible need to be replaced. I'm still thinking the height adj is wrong, that's why I want the specs to check just to be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'll just break down and buy a manual when I can, it'd just be easier.
Brand new carbs are only $400 each LOL
 

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Float level.

The guys that have not had float level issues, have not been around small outboard motors, or dirt bikes that get ridden over lots of bumps.

Unkle Crusty*
 

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The only way to get them out of adjustment is to bend the tab that bears against the float needle. If you're landing hard enough to bend that I'm surprised you're alive Crusty. I had an XL 250 (mid to late 70s model) that got new fork seals installed just about every other month and never had an issue with float height.

If the new float seats and needles are the source of an incorrect float height then they'll need to be set up properly, so that may be your trouble.

I also recommend getting a manual specific for the bike. They come in handy for loads more than keeping water marks off the furniture. Failing that, contact a shop and see if they can't check on float height for you.
 

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Float

Small outboard motors often travel to remote places over very rough roads. And they often do this in the back of a pickup truck, while lying on their sides.
They also pound up and down going over waves.
The tab that closes the needle gets bent often. Motor cross bikes take a real pounding. I agree, once adjusted the float level usually does not change. But it still should be checked. It is hard to know what happened in the past.

Unkle Crusty*
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well...the carbs were disassembled completely for cleaning. Parts possibly got bumped together. Only one maybe two cyl having issue.

The bike sat for a few years before I got it. I know it ran perfect before that (I rode it). In the mean time, it was slammed on it's side once and parked in not leak proof barn conditions.
 

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Yer gonna need to find out what the float heights are, measure them properly, and then proceed with diagnostics to find the gremlin.

How were jets cleaned and how was the float seat cleaned?

I hate to ask this question, but, are there overflow pipes coming out the bottom of each float bowl, and are they crimped off or otherwise not open?

I have seen where these get crimped off by hamfisted spanner monkeys. Probably in an attempt to "fix" a float valve that wasn't closing for whatever reasons.

Are all of the floats in good shape? If you put them in a bucket of water do they all float equally? They should all assume the same position and with the water level the same on each one.
 

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A legend in his own mind
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Discussion Starter #19
Yep, that's why I originally asked if anyone had the float level measurement. No nothing is crimped or out of place and the floats are ok when checking weight. It ran beautifully then sat for a few years. I can rebuild a carburetor in my sleep (used to be an auto mechanic). I just don't have the measurement to check against.
I was hoping to avoid buying a manual just yet, trying to save a few bucks and still get it done.(times are tight right now) :frown: Doesn't seem I will be able to. I'll put it on the back burner until I can get one and resume bringing it back to full health.
 

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Level

I was hoping someone would have the spec.
With the carb upside down, the arm from the needle connection to the float, is usually about parallel with the body of the carburetor.
Another way to check is to let the bowl fill, turn off the fuel, and remove the bowl cup. You will have to do this with the carb right side up, so do not do the screws too tight. Now look in the bowl, it should be about half full. How many carbs do you have? If four, then practice with one until you get it about right.
Sometimes you have to experiment if you do not have the right specs.

Just went back and looked at the picture. looks like two.

Unkle Crusty*
 
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