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I have an 83 Seca so pretty familiar with how they run. But first: Is yours a twin overhead cam motor, and how many gears do you have. One last check, are you doing 6000 revs at sixty mph. From there I can tell you all the things you might want to check.

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Sweet DR. The tach on mine quit too. The cable snapped and I have not found a new one. I checked my speedo with a GPS and it is quite accurate. When new at WOT the hit 10,000 in all gears. Mine can do that in the lower gears but only gets to 9,000 in top gear. I am running a five speed motor at the moment. The six speed is waiting for some work.
I asked about the engine as some folks get the model wrong. The Single overhead cam motor is a wimp that makes about 36 horsepower. The DOHC makes 45 when new. Get the tire fixed first, then I can tell you what else I did with mine. They are great bikes, worth keeping and riding.

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Good work on the brakes and seals. I will check the part number for the tach cable. I do need a new rear shock. I have other bikes with better suspension and it shows. But it does the job. I had to change the swing arm shaft and bearings, and we can talk about that. The Feroda pads on mine are working better than the EBC. A new brake hose is on my list, but needs to wait until summer. I should check if I can get one made in the city near me. Original head light was a bit dull. Good plan with the bulb. Not sure what I used, but it is much better and works.
Wot the others said about the tyre.

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I have Dunlop somethings on my XS400. The back tyre slips now and then in the rain, and especially on the tar snakes. It could be the rubber is a bit harder than the Dunlop TT100 of old. I have Michelin somethings on my Triumph, more sport bike than cruiser, and they feel okay. However I am not familiar with the different models.

Once upon a time I liked the TT100 Dunlops. But these days I am trying to avoid them. I have a high speed imbalance problem on my XS1100. It is a Dunlop 404 or 401 something. I have a new set of Shinko to try on another XS1100.
I had one set of sport bike tyres that had hard middles and softer edges. They worked good, but not needed for the insensitive suspension of the 400. If you ride a lot in the winter rain, I would favor a decent rain tyre over much else.
That is my new plan for the 400 when these suckers wear out. As to years. If it is a bike I ride often, I will wait till lack of tread, or a big slide before I switch. A back up plan is the Harley riders tell me my tyres look worn. Otherwise I may count the years, but if on a bike that does not get pushed much, I think 5 years is way to short.

I have been wondering how your rear rim turns without a tyre on it. Beware of crappy wheel bearings from China, even if from a US company. Some may last 2 years at best, instead of many years. I now check the bearings every time a wheel comes off.

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Sweet. The rim is true enough. Use lots of oil on the chain. Your bike is too clean, but it idles nicely. Stick your finger in to the center part of the bearing, and turn the inner race. You will feel if it is lumpy. 6303 are a popular size. Yours are Japanese which is good. I forgot if there were any seals on the back. The front has a seal each side. There is an inner spacer between the bearings. One end moves out of the way easier than the other end. Tap out the seal where the spacer moves the most. The bright lights say to not remove a bearing by bashing the center part. With a hammer and punch, someone needs to show me how not to bash the middle bit. Make a note of which way around the spacer goes. It will have a collar on one end. Might not make any difference, but I have had problems with the front wheel, when the spacer swapped ends. With one bearing out, remove the spacer, and you still probably can not hit the outer race with the punch. Steering head bearings you can. Bung the tyre back on and see what happens.
After a moment of reflection, I am thinking the rear spacer may not have a collar. If the bearings turn easily and smoothly, you can leave them in.

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Sweet, doing good. Let me know what kind of speed you get out of it. But run it at around 60 for a while to check things and get the feel of it. I have a Dunlop on the front of my 79 XS1100, and it has an out of balance problem around 80 to 90. From now on I will use other brands. Used to love the old TT100 Dunlops. My XS400 has Dunlops and they work fine on that bike.
It is always good practice to change the wheel bearings. With your mighty 400 on the center stand, grab the back of the back wheel and push pull it, to check for movement in the swing arm bushing. I use to use a heavy broom handle or such to check for flex.

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I recall you said the tach was broken. motorcyclespecs.com Good article about these bikes. Rider described 60 as the sweet spot. That comes at 6000 revs. Each 1000 revs adds 10 mph. When new the bikes could nudge 100 with a skinny kid in leathers on board. I can get 10,000 thru the gears, but only 9,000 it top gear. I nudge 90 to 92 on a good day. Too much drag from extra bits bolted on. You might want to keep this bike forever. They are great to ride, great to learn on, and easy enough to keep running, and cheaper too. I ride mine during the winter months mostly. I can pick it up if needed, I can not pick up the bigger bikes. The bigger bikes have the advantage of cruising easily at 75 with two up and gear. Otherwise the smaller bike is king, IMO. You should get close to 50 MPG. I get 50 to 55, but our gallons are 20% bigger. We use liters but I convert to gallons, and convert kilometers to miles. Doing good with the tippy plan. Riding around in circles is a good way to get the feel of the bike leaning. No need to copy the road race guys. Stay centered. In the rain, you may feel more comfortable copying the motocross riders, who lean the bike while staying more upright with their body. You will not run out of tyre doing this. You can practice this while on the hard dry surface.
Post a pic sometime. You show me yours, I will show you mine.

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The small bike of the year for 019 is the Kawasaki Ninja 400. It resembles the XS400 in many ways, almost a clone. It is the only new 400 that can perform as well as the XS. I paid $250 for mine. With a new motor, tires, bearings and other stuff I spent about $1000 total. The DOHC is the one to get.
RD400 are often for sale for large amounts of $$$. The XS is a better bike IMO, for a lot less, and there are plenty of bits in the dead bike yards.

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I ride all year, except when it snows on my Island, or between here and the mainland place. 80 miles away, including 30 on two ferries. It is amazing how fast a street bike can go extreme tippy in the snow. Dec and Jan, I usually take my RV ( red van ) to darts on Friday nights. The XS400 is the winter bike, but is insured year round. To have collector plates on the other bikes, I have to have something else insured at regular rates. The 400 is the cheapest to insure, yet still freeway capable. The RV is insured for the winter months only, and I leave on the winter tires.
the other winter bikes is an XS1100 with a side car attached. This is so I can go to the big island next to me for supplies. It is still a bike for BC ferries rates, and I am still first on and first off. Wasting an hour or more for the ferry in a cage is not user friendly for me. The bottom left coast is the warmest part of BC and Canada in the winter months. Dec Jan rains the most, but sometimes snows.

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Forgot.
My summer bikes are a 96 Triumph Trophy 900, and 80 mint XS1100, a 006 SV1000S Suzuki, and a couple of others waiting to be worked on. I will sell the Suzuki soon. The insurance is too much $$ for regular plates. The Triumph can do the job, and is much more comfortable for Admiral Shirley..

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