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'When cleaning hydraulic brake parts never, EVER anything but brake fluid, brake cleaner or alcohol, your life depends on this .'

As I said, I've broken that rule way more than once and driven vehicles done like that for a literal 50 years. Including race cars. There are reasons for saying it but reality can be somewhat........different.

And coating a disassembled piston on outer edges with brake fluid which draws water like a sponge is begging for piston sticking deluxe. Look at the older Hondas, you GREASE the outside surfaces of the piston sticking beyond caliper surface per service manual and why they don't stick for years, BUT that again argues with the top quoted rule..........oh my, what to do?

I applaud the viewpoint on WD40, one of the most trouble causing products ever made. Let it reduce to the basics or sticky bubblegum and one will see and nothing on earth cuts it to clean it off either. EXCEPT more WD40.........hmm, it propagates.

Keep reading and watch how many other 'rules' I break, like washing off oil or brake fluid soaked brake friction parts to again use them for years. I mind the rules until I see using my brain how they can be greatly counterproductive.
 

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I tend to burn the memos.........after I read them of course. So much rubbish is generated to get you to add throughput to various companies, give them every cent if needed. Not this boy.

I turned all my OCD perfectionist insanity inwards when I quit racing. I then put it into coming up with the million ways you could make money out of thin air doing supposedly things you 'just don't do'. I question everything and it all ends up being figured at dollar amounts of savings to make a dollar amount/hr. I paid myself to get something done. It has gotten as high as $2500/hr. on say the time I was recommended to change an ATX by several places and I then rebuilt the badly slipping in 1 and 2 one I had using a thirty cent washer and about 15 minutes of work. I drove the car fixed perfectly for over 20 years after that.
 

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Well yes ;

There's a specific brake part grease but I've had to repair so many systems ruined by DIY'ers trying to cheap out .

I too wash old brake shoes of grease, oil and brake fluid for re use but it'd be poor practice to tell others some 'farm fixes' .
 

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I remember a time where everything was cleaned with gasoline. Not very long ago too.
I've still been known to do that ( with a bit of caution) at times. Gasoline is a good solvent.
 
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Gasoline is my prime cleaning solvent but like said outside. I even recover it to use it several times. And one very good thing gasoline does when it has ethanol in it, it absolutely rinses to 100% clean since the ethanol cuts it to let water remove the oily film gasoline used to always leave on parts, Now they will dry to be bone dry but I always blow off all cleaned parts to stop rusting.

A solid rule comes with it............NEVER leave critical parts like bearings in liquid gas with ethanol overnight! If the container is not airtight the ethanol will pull water and the bearings will be rusted in the morning! So, I ALWAYS finish the job to stop that. No half way.

The same thing with new wave enviro-friendly paint removers, if you let them sit with like a cylinder block removing paint overnight you will get a nasty surprise if the paint remover is water miscible as most now are. Your part will be rusted.
 

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RE using gasoline as a cleaning agent :

What semi fast said ! gasoline vapors are extremely explosive unlike the liquid itself .

If you use it anywhere, use only pressure fans to ventilate ! never use suction to dry out a fuel tank ! o_O .

I feel there are better cleaners to use , gasoline fumes turn your brains to mush as well .
 
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Likely true but dollar for dollar no way.

Here's one for you and controlling explosiveness. Brother right below me ran an electrical generating plant for many years here in Dallas. Those huge freakin' generators get cooled by what?............6 MILLION cubic feet of hydrogen.

You just gotta always exercise control and clear thought. Small amounts, outside with a prevailing south wind coming down through the area I clean parts in. No smokers not even friends, I being a loner. I commonly can't even smell the fumes what with the wind. Some 50 years now doing it. Of course if I get stupid in old age it could change.

I consider starting fluid MUCH more of a hazard than cleaning with fuel based on my rule application, I've seen some pretty serious damage caused there by what would appear at first glance to be proper use of it yet not much on the cans about that at all.

Those things are simple tools to be used intelligently, any monkey can blow himself up. Here we weld on fuel tanks with no problems at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Thanks everybody. All great information. I am learning and all my life wanted to and you are getting me there.
 

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Remember not to overthink things ~ you said the brake pedal is stiff and has to be pulled up by hand, this means a simple mechanical problem, you didn't say 'the rear brake doesn't work' or 'it uses / leaks brake fluid' so fix the basic problem and then go from there .
 
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One can NEVER overthink things too much, one does it to avoid physically redoing it, what lowers cost and time wasted.

Take my Honda F bike, I used GM HEI ignition modules and coils off a GM Baretta to make my own electronic ignition that will fire .060" plug gaps on the bike. AFTER I pronounced Accel coils I spent $130 for to be garbage on the bike.
 

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You are comparing apples to oranges there .

Agreed the GM HEI module is one of the best things ever, it's easily adaptable to whatever obscure bike/car/truck/APU/GENSET you're trying to get running .

I've tried yellow ACCEL ignition coils and found them to work well ~ like you I like W I D E spark plug gaps because they drive the coil to it's maximum output and add power .

I even used the yellow ACCEL Harley-Davidson coil in my old Russian bike with breaker points, they're still fine, never need replacing and the bike starts first or second kick .
 

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I have two bike where the brake lever became stiff on the shaft. A 79 and a 006. A lot of road grime can get in there. Easy to remove the linkage to the master cylinder and check. Start with the easy fix, and eliminate one problem at a time. Does not make sense to me to take apart the caliper first. There are also purge holes in the master cylinder that get plugged from old fluid. I would check that next. Then the hose and caliper.
Semi mentioned the lever up the page. Does not cost anything to check, clean and grease, and or file the shaft to a smooth finish so that the lever moves freely. UK
 

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Not always easy ~ the brake pivot shaft on my Tiddler is also the center stand pivot and something else and everything was rusted solid .

It took some time of soaking it with KROIL before it'd work at all , once free I took the brake pedal off and cleaned, de rusted and lubricated it with long fiber Lithium base grease .

The best grease for this sort of application if WWII surplus rifle grease ~ it's made my Lubriplate and doesn't attract dust / road grime somehow .

VERY cheap in little butstock tubs .
 

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Not always easy ~ the brake pivot shaft on my .....
Okay, not always the easy fix but check the most simple and most likely cause first. If your right front turn signal does not flash do not start digging into the main wire harness. Check the bulb first. ;) Simple, most likely first...

S F
 

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file the shaft to a smooth finish so that the lever moves freely.
Wouldn't sanding with wet/dry fine sandpaper be better? There can't be much that needs to be removed I wouldn't think and strips of sandpaper is really easy to use on shafts if you have enough room for both hands to work it.
 

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Wouldn't sanding with wet/dry fine sandpaper be better? There can't be much that needs to be removed I wouldn't think and strips of sandpaper is really easy to use on shafts if you have enough room for both hands to work it.
That works but the best material to use is a roll of abrasive cloth, I always keep a course and fine roll in my shop.
Super convenient, meant for metal and it works wonders. I recommend the Norton brand but there are others.
Pull it out opf the dispensor box, tear off a convenient length and use it like a shoe shine rag.
Something I picked up from years of working with shafts and bearings for baggage conveyors.
 
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