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When you get things settled out adjust the engine valves, and to .005" instead of .003" book spec, it will extend the valve setting periods much longer beyond saving the valves, which is usually why those motors die. The valves commonly don't get adjusted, even Honda service skipped lots of it because shims are required to do the work and no real profit comes off it.
 

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1981 Honda cb900c, 1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD, 1982 Honda Nighthawk 650
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Okay. I will get on this by Friday. I'll post what I find. By the way, I used some WD-40 just to see if it would help. It didn't then I used some 3in1 oil to see it it would and no. It's going to be as you say.
 

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1981 Honda cb900c, 1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD, 1982 Honda Nighthawk 650
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Who, me, talk to myself? Yes you! Oh, okay. I will try not to. That's a good idea. Okay, thanks. Your welcome. LOL
 

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1981 Honda cb900c, 1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD, 1982 Honda Nighthawk 650
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
LOL Yep, I don't know how I got two different accounts. One is on this pc and the other is on my laptop. But it's both me. " I'm Batman" LOL
 

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1981 Honda cb900c, 1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD, 1982 Honda Nighthawk 650
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I have an idea and I want to kow what you guys think. I am sealing my 93 Kawasaki 440 LTD in the morning and I am thinking about getting a new petcock with an off. The one on it just has the PP and ON . What do you think? a lot of work for nothing or will not create a problem? Would you do it or not?
 

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1981 Honda cb900c, 1983 Kawasaki 440 LTD, 1982 Honda Nighthawk 650
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
The automatic off that a vacuum petcock provides is a useful "I forgot to turn the fuel off again" fail safe.

I try to never fix something that ain't broke.

S F
Yes, I guess I just don't really understand how it works and in my mind it needs a shut off. But I guess your right so I'll just trust it to work. Now the PP is prime and it is only to be used if the carbs run out of gas, correct?
 

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Ace Tuner
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Now the PP is prime and it is only to be used if the carbs run out of gas, correct?
Yes it is prime. It is used when the bike has been sitting for a few days or so and some of the fuel has evaporated from the carburetor/s.
You turn it to prime so fuel can fill the carburetor fully. That way the engine can get a good dose of fuel before cold start. They start better with a full carburetor.

S F
 

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Yes it is prime. It is used when the bike has been sitting for a few days or so and some of the fuel has evaporated from the carburetor/s.
You turn it to prime so fuel can fill the carburetor fully. That way the engine can get a good dose of fuel before cold start. They start better with a full carburetor.

S F
Thank you. Yes, that is what I thought, just wanted to be sure I was correct.
 

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I see everyone is going INSIDE ;-)
My Suzuki 850 / '83 model had a similar problem which was "irritating".
However, weekends are made for these things. Brake Light switch spring = Remove. Brake Pedal to Master cylinder shaft = Remove.
GENTLY knock pivot shaft out of housing. if it is brown with rust - welcome to the weekend. There is no lubrication to this shaft !! Wire brush the shaft, try and GENTLY clean the inside of the housing - light grit paper.
Replace whilst dry. If it is moving freely, remove and coat the inside of the housing AND the shaft with some silicone lubrication [not as mucky as motor / bearing grease..
Replace all parts and BE CAREFUL / ATTENTIVE OF THE PEDAL ALIGNMENT !!!
Just a "once a year" routine check is fine.
If that does not work - don't worry I will call you ;-)
Not really, If the problem is not resolved, THEN go upstairs to the master cylinder. EVERYTHING is happier once cleaned, so it could be a good time to start. Whilst messing about, change the brake fluid 'cos you can.
 

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I see everyone is going INSIDE ;-)
My Suzuki 850 / '83 model had a similar problem which was "irritating".
However, weekends are made for these things. Brake Light switch spring = Remove. Brake Pedal to Master cylinder shaft = Remove.
GENTLY knock pivot shaft out of housing. if it is brown with rust - welcome to the weekend. There is no lubrication to this shaft !! Wire brush the shaft, try and GENTLY clean the inside of the housing - light grit paper.
Replace whilst dry. If it is moving freely, remove and coat the inside of the housing AND the shaft with some silicone lubrication [not as mucky as motor / bearing grease..
Replace all parts and BE CAREFUL / ATTENTIVE OF THE PEDAL ALIGNMENT !!!
Just a "once a year" routine check is fine.
If that does not work - don't worry I will call you ;-)
Not really, If the problem is not resolved, THEN go upstairs to the master cylinder. EVERYTHING is happier once cleaned, so it could be a good time to start. Whilst messing about, change the brake fluid 'cos you can.
OOOOOPS I forgot ;-) Remove brake pedal from shaft before trying to knock it out of the housing ;-) Use a pin punch to mark how the pedal and shaft are lined up [if there are no punch marks present] You may have to completely remove the Pinch Bolt to remove the pedal.
 

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There is a relief in the center of the brake pedal shaft that holds a grease reserve and the F bikes mount it in a substantial aluminum casting. I drill and tap a hole to put in a grease zerk to lube that shaft.

Honda should have a dimple mark on shaft end to get the brake pedal indexed back in correctly, you line it up with the split in pedal. The pedal bolt has to come completely out, the shaft is undercut to lock if you try to pull pedal with bolt still in. A safety feature to keep pedal from falling off bike.
 

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Honda Tiderls, Ural Solos & BMW R60/6
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Copy and print out post # 34, this is the problem, very common .

I use / recommend long fiber lithium based white grease but whatever floats your boat, a sticking / dragging brake pedal is dangerous .

Some older Honda use the same pivot bolt for the main stand making this a real PIA, just keep flooding it with your favorite penetrating oil (NOTE : WD-40 is a solvent not any sort of oil nor penetrant , it's worthless ****, get rid of it and use real penetrating oils , many here will guide you or i can .

Soak each end of the pivot shaft and every joint in it as you force the pedal up and down, in time the liquid will get all the way in and loosen things up, then you can take it apart and clean / de rust it .

Get the brake pedal sorted out before touching the hydraulics .

Most older Honda calipers are easy to take apart, clean well, lubricate with BRAKE FLUID ONLY, re assemble and bleed out to work as new again .

Mind the O-ring doesn't get flipped over, this will cause slight weepeage of brake fluid .

When cleaning hydraulic brake parts never, EVER anything but brake fluid, brake cleaner or alcohol, your life depends on this .

When you're ready to address the front brake, tape a large trash bag over the gas tank so the brake fluid you're guaranteed to spill, won't instantly ruin that nice paint .

Looks like a nice bike to me ! .
 
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