1976 Honda GL1000 Project

3851 Views 68 Replies 7 Participants Last post by GerGS850g, 2 mo ago

OldNEET

Discussion Starter · 4 mo ago

I'd like to make up this bike so that it can be chopper, bobber, cafe racer or even Sushi bar decoration.

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OldNEET

Discussion Starter · #2 · 4 mo ago

Attached is the frame of GL1000 which I searched on the net. Seems Honda bikes of this era were designed with the same concept. The steering neck is ball and lace which is not very durable. I want to replace with roller bearings. The steel pipe double cradle looks light and the rear is normal swing arm and shock strut. The gas tank is installed under the seat, so it's wide overall. Since the gas level is below the carburetor, it is mechanically pumped. The engine can be easily lowered by removing the left subframe, I like this structure.

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GerGS850g

· #3 · 4 mo ago

Nice one, my dream project. I love the old GL's. They are horrid expensive here though. Keep us updated, would definitely like to see how this turns out. Have a look at this guys build process too.

OldNEET

Discussion Starter · #4 · 4 mo ago

GerGS850g said:
Nice one, my dream project. I love the old GL's. They are horrid expensive here though. Keep us updated, would definitely like to see how this turns out. Have a look at this guys build process too.

Thank you for introducing me the very informative channel. My challenge will be mainly consisting on the weight reduction but will see the reality first.

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FlipFlop

· #5 · 4 mo ago

I had a '77 and loved it but it was definably an ease around bike as you could feel the looseness in its frame after getting all the luggage options on it v/s being naked. Best thing I did for mine was remove the single carb and go back to the stock verified rebuilt carbs and going from stock points to an electronic ignition.

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OldNEET

Discussion Starter · #6 · 4 mo ago

FlipFlop said:
I had a '77 and loved it but it was definably an ease around bike as you could feel the looseness in its frame after getting all the luggage options on it v/s being naked. Best thing I did for mine was remove the single carb and go back to the stock verified rebuilt carbs and going from stock points to an electronic ignition.

Thank you for good suggestions. Will be staying with the stock carbs. Talking about electronic ignition system, to be honest with you, I had bad experiences with a pointless system about 25 years ago. The story should be different by now but do you use OEM parts or after market brand?

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FlipFlop

· #7 · 4 mo ago

OldNEET said:
Thank you for good suggestions. Will be staying with the stock carbs. Talking about electronic ignition system, to be honest with you, I had bad experiences with a pointless system about 25 years ago. The story should be different by now but do you use OEM parts or after market brand?

I used an aftermarket one from fleabay. It was only 50.00 USD at that time and was simple to install and tune. I had a rough running hard to start condition when it was cold that I could not get out with tuning the carbs and tried the electronic version and was wowed with not only removing known issue I had but also it felt way spunkier when getting on the throttle.

DannoXYZ

· #8 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

Electronic ignitions have come a long way since you've tried 25-yrs ago. Some of them even have programmable 3D mapping! Will have to add TPS for load-sensing, gives you much better mid-range response without too much advance under WOT.

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OldNEET

Discussion Starter · #9 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

Thanks. These are very good to know. Now I start my cooking.

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OldNEET

Discussion Starter · #10 · 4 mo ago

I've been considering about the electric cooling fan. Some said it runs too often while the temp indicator showing normal range, probably the temp sensor problem etc. Here are my thoughts and will take the unit out from my bike.
1. There is no effective shroud for the fan and the air flow by the fan covers only 1/4 of the radiator face.
2. The fan unit blocking the air flow when it is not running.
3. A "racer" doesn't need to have it.
Beside these, will remove the shroud plate in front of the air box too. Not recommended? I agree with your opinion but OK for "Starbucks Racer" I think.

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OldNEET

Discussion Starter · #11 · 4 mo ago

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FlipFlop

· #12 · 4 mo ago

If you are speaking of the plate that is in front of the carbs and behind the fan it is kind of a a structural thing IMHO although a few have taken it off and noted that they ran cooler. One thing I thought I would throw out there is make sure you do the timing belt on those religiously, again IMHO every 5 years or if you do not know the history of it.

OldNEET

Discussion Starter · #13 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

FlipFlop said:
If you are speaking of the plate that is in front of the carbs and behind the fan it is kind of a a structural thing IMHO although a few have taken it off and noted that they ran cooler. One thing I thought I would throw out there is make sure you do the timing belt on those religiously, again IMHO every 5 years or if you do not know the history of it.

Yes, I left the structural torque rods and cross bar but took only the plate off. And will check the timing belt for sure thing.

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OldNEET

Discussion Starter · #14 · 4 mo ago

Fixing dragging brake. Remove the rusty piston by master cylinder unit.

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OldNEET

Discussion Starter · #15 · 4 mo ago

My thoughts about motorcycles, they are so unique individuals and those functional parts are designed to show.
I can't stop loving it.

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GerGS850g

· #16 · 4 mo ago

OldNEET said:
My thoughts about motorcycles, they are so unique individuals and those functional parts are designed to show.
I can't stop loving it.

I feel the same, hence why I like the bobber look.

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OldNEET

Discussion Starter · #17 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

I'm still working on it but already looks healthier with my TLC?.

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OldNEET

Discussion Starter · #18 · 4 mo ago

Inspected the timing belt and adjust the tappet clearances. The recommendation is 5 years or 25,000 miles whichever comes sooner to replace the belt. I'm quite sure these Honda genuine belts are more than 5 years old but look they are replaced at least once in current odd meter read 25k miles. I leave them as they are ( on my own risk ) this time.

This engine doesn't run in my hand yet and possibly the carburetors are needed to rebuild. I will reconsider if I should replace the belts at that time.

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OldNEET

Discussion Starter · #19 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

The both master cylinders have to be rebuild.

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OldNEET

Discussion Starter · #20 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

Some updates.

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