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Discussion Starter #1
So I am having some difficulties in a Cafe build. I am pretty decent at mechanics and I can easily look at something and figure out how it works. What I did: I pulled the top half of the engine off to change the gaskets. I put everything back together just how I took it apart. The motor would turn freely with no problems beforehand. After everything was put back together, it would turn freely as well. I was using the flywheel and a socket to test it. I tried to use the kick start very slowly to make sure there was nothing wrong there. I pushed it through one time, worked like a charm. then the second time, it locked up. I went back over to the flywheel and reversed the motion less than half a turn, then could freely spin the motor again. Tried using the kick start and it would work 5 or 6 times in a row, then lock up. I did not do anything with the crankcase part of the motor, only did the cylinder heads and up. Thanks guys!
 

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Open the intakes and exhaust ports, and watch the valves, to make sure that they do not interfere; it doesn't take much to get the cams out of proper sync, and the valves can strike if you are one tooth off.
 

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It seems odd that it would go through several strokes though. I was thinking the cam timing might be off too, but the hit should occur every time, not just now and again. But the first thing to do is pop off the valve cover and check the cam timing
 

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Discussion Starter #4
do either one of y'all know the right position for the camshafts for the timing? I am thinking thats the main issue.
 

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There are markings on the camshafts to line up with corresponding marks on the head casting.

If the valves are even a bit bent, you may get intermittent strikes; also, if the chain tension isn't set, allowing some variation in cam timing.
 

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Yeah, I'd wondered about bent valves after I'd posted. I hadn't thought of the tensioner being slack letting the valve timing vary slightly. I also thought this was an SOHC but it appears to be a DOHC if I'm looking at the correct fiche. So that is two cams in need of appropriate positioning.

The cams have to be in synch with the crankshaft so there should be a mark of some sort to get the crank in position first (timing marks indicating TDC would be my guess) as well as indexes on the cams themselves.

I'd recommend you get a service manual for the bike, Clymer, Haynes, or Helm (they do the factory service manuals for Honda). I prefer Clymer's arrangement over Haynes. A factory manual is nice to have as well if available. These will cover getting the cam in properly if someone in here doesn't give a detailed description.
 

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I have the CB450 service manual, and the 500T is basically the same. From the manual:

4. Valve timing
(1) Align the timing mark on the right side of the respective camshafts to the timing index mark on the respective bearings (Refer to Fig. 3.21)
(2) Position the left piston to top-dead-center by aligning the "LT" mark on the generator rotor to the index mark on the stator. (Refer to Fig. 3.22)
5. Assemble the cam chain
NOTE:
a. It is easier to assemble the cam chain from the intake side.
b. A new cam chain joint should always be used.
c. Be careful not to drop the cam chain joint into the valve compartment.

I can send you the section of the manual, so you can see the referenced figures, if you PM your email address.
 

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I remember it being a pain to snake the chain through the cylinder head tunnel and keep the cams in the same position.
 

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Amen to that! DOHC through narrow channels, and you have to make sure it stays on the guide rollers, too.
 

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Copper wire, fish tape, nylon cord, whatever works for you.
 

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Yeah, some jobs are just tedious. Like installing the cam chain tensioner spring in one of Hondas radial valve heads. Having three hands, each with two thumbs and five long skinny fingers would come in handy on occasion.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks for the input everyone. i do greatly appreciate it. I went ahead and ordered a clymer manual this morning. I'll be getting it Thursday and if i have any questions, you'll hear from me. Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So guys, finally got a chance to get the cams aligned and all that stuff. So i am still able to turn the engine but i am not able to use the kickstart at all now. Not even a little budge. I attempted to continue to turn the motor like i did before to see if the kickstart would work, and it did not. any other suggestions on what it could be? I was able to use the kick start before I pulled of the cylinder and cylinder head portion.
 

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Can you turn the engine with the bolt that holds the stator?
The kickstart turns the engine by turning the input shaft of the transmission, which is the output of the clutch; the input of the clutch turns the crankshaft via the primary gears. Take the spark plugs out first, so compression isn't stopping the engine from turning, then make sure it is not in gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yes. i am able to turn the engine using the bolt that holds the stator. I Have already tried taking out the spark plugs and doing the same steps over with no luck. Also, I made sure it was in neutral when I attempted it again.
 

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Might be time to pull the side cover. Is the kick start lever itself hitting something?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I already have the side covers off and the kickstart is not being blocked by anything. Keep in mind, the kickstart was working before i pulled the cyclinder and cylinder head off.
 

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Very odd. Something must be blocking the kick start mechanism, but it would have nothing to do with taking the head off. Can you mount the clutch release to the left side and disengage the clutch? Since the kick start works through the clutch, that would eliminate anything past the clutch.
 

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If you have the side cover off, can you visualize the kick start gear and the gear on the clutch basket that it engages to see if any of the teeth are fouled? Or if something has become lodged in the teeth stopping them?
 
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