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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I'm coming here to be safe and maybe pick the brains of those more knowledgeable.
I also think the previous owner was using pre-mix fuel, and I'm now reading that it has oil-injection?
My specific bike does not have an oil tank like what I'm seeing in google images.
I've taken off the black cap of the gearbox and seen what appears to be no oil.
Between forums and scanned owner manuals, I've gotten confused on what oil to use. I've heard 20W-40 is not the same as it used to be for bikes, and that bel-ray gear oil is recommended because it doesn't have the additives that modern 20W-40 has, but bel-ray is 80W?
The bike runs, amazingly, but I don't want to go much further before I get a better grasp of what this deal is.
Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks
-Hayden
 

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Premium Member
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I've gotten confused on whether we're talking about crank case oil, 2 stroke oil for the fuel, or gear oil. Does this bike even take a separate oil for the gear box?

For crank case oil.

Spectro4 been very good to me.
 

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Have not seen one of those in a long time! Is that an automatic chain oiler mounted on the rear fender under the seat?

I'm trying hard to remember what kind of oil we ran in bikes like that. Seems to me, there was no motorcycle specific oil back then, so a good automotive oil is what we used in the crankcase, Castrol, Valvoline, something like that, if we had the money, otherwise it was Pennzoil or maybe even Quaker State. Can't remember if we ran straight 30 weight or maybe a 10W30.
Don't remember ever seeing a 20W50 back then, it may have been around, I just don't remember it.

As far as mixing the oil and gas for a two stroke, most outboard boat motors are two stroke. Wal-Mart sells outboard motor oil for mixing with gasoline. I don't guess it would hurt a motorcycle. Someone else may chime in here shortly if I've got it all wrong. :)
 

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American Legion Rider
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I was a straight 30 weight guy for years. Times change though so now we have oil war threads to keep us entertained. :D :D :D
 

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Visionary
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Just use any non synthetic motorcycle oil or wet clutch rated oil of the appropriate weight, those are close to what it was meant to use and you will be fine. What you don't want is a modern car oil, there are extra slippery additives in them that will make your clutch slip, those didn't exist in the 1970s.
Personally I suggest Rotella T4, 15W40 oil.
Yes it's intended for diesel trucks and equipment, but it's an excellent oil, wet clutch rated, very inexpensive ($15 a gallon at Walmart), and widely used in motorcycles. I use it in my antique Honda CB400T.
 

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Stop by a Suzuki dealer and ask them about what to pre-mix for the lil 2 stroke engine or use Outboard 2 cycle oil. We used Chevron outboard oil for years in our 2 stroke race bikes.

Use Dino generic Rotella-non synthetic oil in the gearbox. It's the best there is for all around use.

Sam:)
 

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Vintage Rider
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Unless engine modifications have been made that bike should not be running pre-mix (Crank bearings will soon be toast) As far as transmission oil, Rotella T4 15W-40 is the most cost effective and common choice today.
 

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Incorrect Rizingson. The picture shows that the 'oil injection' tank is missing. Lots of people did that as a way to make things lighter and easier. I did it myself on track racing bikes that came with oil injection.

Crank bearings will be toast without an oil and gas mixture. This engine is not a 4 stroke.

Sam:)
 

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He'll need to find out what the gasoline/oil mixture rate is supposed to be. If I remember right 20 to 1 and 50 to 1 seemed fairly common, but it could be different. I think 20 and 50 to 1 were chainsaw mixtures.
 

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Vintage Rider
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Incorrect Rizingson. The picture shows that the 'oil injection' tank is missing. Lots of people did that as a way to make things lighter and easier. I did it myself on track racing bikes that came with oil injection.

Crank bearings will be toast without an oil and gas mixture. This engine is not a 4 stroke.

Sam:)
Please reread what I posted. Yes I know that it's a 2 stroke (I also own that model) It came with a pump, which can be removed if some modifications are done to the engine (maybe it has been done). Unfortunately many people still believe you can remove Suzuki's Posi-Force with no consequences.
The factory scrambler kit pictured here shows the little bottle next to the kick start, that is required to oil the left crank bearing and connecting rod big end. Oil tank can be removed but not the pump.
62434

Here's some more factory info about converting to 30:1 pre-mix.
62435
 

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WOW !!!!! I wasn't aware of that and I bet that lack of knowledge by others has led to a lot of ruined engines! Thanks for the info.:)

Sam:)
 
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