[Mikeyandsports]

So after a week of riding, the brand new battery is died. After the jumping the bike, rode for about 20 miles and accidently killed her. She wouldn't start or even turn over. Got it jumped again while on the way home she started sputtering and died when i pulled the clutch in (first time i have experienced that). It was like that till i got home. Verified the battery is good and had it charged.

 

[WintrSol]

Start with the three wires from the stator, as the connector they pass through is known for getting hot and increasing resistance. Next is the regulator, which is not cheap, and can't really be tested, except on a pass/fail basis. Essentially, if the stator is putting out power, and the connections are good, the R/R is failing.

 

[Mikeyandsports]

Can I replace the cables without replacing the stator. I had to fight tooth and nail to convince my wife to let me get the bike. I really am wanting to stay as cheap as possible.

 

[WintrSol]

If the three wires from the stator (I think they are yellow) are getting hot at the connector, then, yes, you can remove the connector and directly splice the wire ends. Others have don this. You don't even have to keep track of which is which, as they are all the same. Of course, it makes it harder if the stator actually needs replacing, but that's up to you.

But first, you should test the stator with the engine running - got a Voltmeter that reads ACV? If so, disconnect that connector and connect the meter between any two of the three contacts, stator side, start the engine, using a battery from a car, if handy. You should measure over 60VAC from one wire to the other two, and between the other two, since it is a 3-phase stator, and all phases are equal. While you have the connector open, engine stopped, set your meter to Ohms, and measure between each, and to the engine case. You should get something near 0 Ohms between the wires, and near infinity to the case.