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Old 01-06-2010, 08:15 PM   #1
clahman
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Default hayabusa charging problem

hi folks. i have a serious problem with my hayabusa.
i think it started when i fitted a new set of 2009 oxford heated grips. these are wired strait in to the battery as stated in the manual. dead easy to fit. this means if you leave them on they can drain the battery when the bike is not in use. or they will drain the battery down to 11.7 volts and then they automatically switch off. i didn't leave them on (perhaps someone switched them on when i wasn't looking, i don't know) ...so next morning the bike wouldn't start, i measured the battery and lo and behold it read 11.7v. i stuck the charger on without disengaging the terminals and started the bike. eek, no charging from the alternator it seemed like. i mean voltage reading was below 13v at 4000rpm. i left it til the next day,,,battery reading was about 8v. so either the battery is dying or the system is draining the battery. the temperature outside is minus 4 to minus 10, and i noticed today that when i stick the battery on top of the radiator that the volts will increase from as low as 2v to 11.7v. so what is happening. totally flummoxed on this one,,, and my meter is acting weird too. thanks.,,,g
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:31 PM   #2
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obviously i've disconnected the heated grips but the problem still persists.
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Old 01-06-2010, 10:02 PM   #3
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You may need to get a new battery, or the cold is just affecting the battery.
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Old 01-07-2010, 05:55 AM   #4
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Default fair enough.

i'll get a new battery and let you know how it goes,,,g
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Old 01-08-2010, 10:30 AM   #5
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new battery fitted and all seems well. it's even cranking over a lot better. the oem battery was chinese as is the new one so if this battery can cope with the sub zero temps for the remainder of this year i'll invest in a german gel battery for next winter.
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Old 01-08-2010, 12:54 PM   #6
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Invest on a battery tender Jr. Or install an on/off switch between the batter and accessories. Having a battery tender will prolong the life of your battery and save you $$ in a long run.
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:12 PM   #7
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usually the bikes out every 2 days and only the alarm is drawing power when it's switched off. which is manageable. the bike's kept outside as well, so a charger is no good. cheers, my dears.
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Old 01-08-2010, 04:30 PM   #8
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Why can't you put a battery tender outside? Is it because there's no outlet plug? I've kept my beater ouside and have a tender outside. The same when I had kept my old bikes outside when, I didn't have a garage.

I still keep my bike plug in the whole winter or when I'm not riding it in the summer

I intalled a quick disconnect that came with the charger. It can be use to power different accessories such as heated gears.
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Old 01-09-2010, 07:47 PM   #9
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i guess you haven't heard of the great complicator, Tigz.

what if it rains (like all the time)?
i know it would end up getting fried within a week.
i left the battery in the bike overnight tonite (-5 celcius),,,fingers crossed it will start tomorrow. it's behaving itself up til now. i just realised that they top the battery off with water sometimes and maybe thats why the cold got to it.
just now i'm having a read thru all the forums,,,rather interesting.
i ride a hayabusa which i got new 21st november '08 and i put 17,500mls on it already. i fitted new hid lights a couple of days ago and also some flashing bullet led's for safety. mounted them wrongly, so they all have to come off again. dropped the nose fairing, which broke a wee bit, god knows what else will go wrong before end of this winter! i used to be in the buzzards mcc up in inverness. (just for 1% intrest)

when can you get your bike back out on the road..
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Old 01-10-2010, 07:00 AM   #10
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houston, we have a problem. the new battery has gone flat. only reading a slight increase in volts when revved up to 4000rpm. so the problem is something else. i'll have to make a few electrical checks i guess.
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Old 01-10-2010, 09:22 AM   #11
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i reckon you fkt the reg/rec when you fitted the charger.
did you fit it the wrong way at first? easily done lol.
check all the fuses - there might be a charge fuse that you missed?

have a look in the free manuals thread and see if there's info for your bike.
if not, check the same thread for a wiring diagram, if you don't already have one

good luck - bet it's cold up there m8, was in knoydart not long ago and don't think i've ever been as cold and wet in my life!
dunno how you guys wear kilts, i had about 10 layers on and i was still blue!
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Old 01-10-2010, 10:56 AM   #12
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benny thats what i was thinking. the charger has 2 settings slow and fast. impatiently i switched it to fast for a bit of boost to get on the start button.
anyway, i've taken off the volt/reg and am at the mo trying to test it. i have a manual online all set up.
unfortunatly i'm not all that sure how to test this with the meter,
i have it set to diode...which i think is what the manual asks. however the number 1804 appears (approximation) when testing -B1 +B2.

http://1gighost.com/hayabusa/k8hayabusamanual.pdf


THIS IS THE hayabusa manual. the page is 1J 10. sorry i aven't got a screenshot.
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Old 01-10-2010, 11:53 AM   #13
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OK, their numbers are based on their tester; each meter will show a different value based on a lot of variables, to complicated to explain here. When measuring any of the B lines to any of the other B lines, you are checking to see that the rectifier diodes (see 1J-1) are conducting; with the setup they are using, the IC is also involved. Your reading indicates that there is conduction, but your meter is measuring a higher value of voltage than theirs. What you need to verify that all measurements from each B to each other B are nearly the same. If any one is much higher or lower than the rest, you have a bad rectifier. Your readings from B/R to B/W should be similar to theirs, in that -B/R to +B/W should conduct through a diode-like device, and the other direction would read much closer to 0.
This is a coarse way of checking the basics, it will not tell you if the regulator is fully functional. Post your version of their table, and I can tell you if you have a major failure in the R/R, but there are other things to consider, like, do any of the wires into the stator conduct to the engine case? What is the voltage out of the stator when the engine is running? Does the IC correctly control the output voltage? Are the grounds to the regulator (B/W) clean and tight?
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Old 01-10-2010, 02:27 PM   #14
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quote:

The circuit of Suzuki GSX1300 Hayabusa Charging System composed of generator, regulator/rectifier unit and battery. The AC current generated from the generator is rectified by the rectifier and is turned into DC current, then it charges the battery. While the engine rpm is low and the generated voltage of generator is lower then the adjusted voltage of regulator, the regulator does not function. However, the generated current charges the battery directly at this time.

When the engine rpm becomes higher, the generated voltage of the generator also becomes higher and the voltage between the battery terminals becomes high accordingly. When it reaches the adjusted voltage of the integrated circuit and it is turned “ON”, a signal will be sent to the SCR (thyristor) gate probe and the SCR will be turned “ON”. Then the SCR becomes conductive in the direction from point A to point B. At this time the current generated from the generator gets through the SCR without charging the battery and returns to generator again.



*so there might be nothing wrong with your charging m8 - it will still charge but the regulator will only work at higher rpm.

Last edited by benny hedges; 01-21-2010 at 06:29 AM..
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Old 01-10-2010, 02:35 PM   #15
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have u looked at the faq on huyabusa.org?
http://www.hayabusa.org/forum/busa-problems/
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:01 PM   #16
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hayabusa.where?
i have the results. just waiting or trying to post them up. interesting.




Last edited by clahman; 01-10-2010 at 04:10 PM..
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:12 PM   #17
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the circled ones up top are double checked. it looks like the culprit would be B3, yes ?
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:22 PM   #18
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seems like you are getting somewhere.
the busa forum is http://www.hayabusa.org

have you got this manual? http://1gighost.com/hayabusa/
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:27 PM   #19
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hi benny. i must't forget the main problem is, the battery seems to be draining overnight. it could be i fried the vreg,,,but i could also have fried something else. possibly the heated grips, wired into the battery have created an additional prob. when i run the engine and measure the voltage,, it increases very slightly. so if the battery reads 11 volts, and i increase the revs, it will read maybe 11.2 instead of 14.5 or higher. it can get quite confusing,.
if the tests show that B3 is at fault, then that would decrease the charging capabilities,,because B1 B2 B3 connect to the generator. now i need to know if it will drain the batt overnight. ihave a pic of my cbx 750f. post it up later. thanks.

i'm prolly banned from haya.org. and yes i do have that manual. pictures are useless though.

Last edited by clahman; 01-10-2010 at 04:35 PM..
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Old 01-10-2010, 05:03 PM   #20
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Old 01-10-2010, 06:43 PM   #21
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my honda was doing the same so i changed the reg rec, and battery, still did the same.
turned out it was the genny coils.
got a set cheap and it's been spot on since.
the b1/2/3 wires are the 3 phases of your genny. maybe one is earthing the battery.

nice cbx btw
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Old 01-10-2010, 11:30 PM   #22
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The diodes connected to B3 are definitely damaged, and, when the coils of the stator are connected, the battery will be drained. Not saying the stator is good, just that the R/R is bad.
Make sure the wires from the stator (the three that connect to B1-B3) are NOT connected to the engine case; connect one lead of your meter to one of the wires and the other lead to the case, with the meter in OHMS position. If you're not touching both leads, it should read the same as when the leads are held away from anything.
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Old 01-11-2010, 04:10 PM   #23
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wintersol. thanks for your assistance. i have a new vreg on order, shan't be too long til i'm back on the bike.
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Old 01-11-2010, 10:54 PM   #24
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Let's just hope that the stator is OK, and not shorting to ground when hot. A number of guys on an Intruder forum have had to replace both to keep the system charging.
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