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#1 |
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Motorcyclist
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 11
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Hello to all and THANKS so much for all your responses.
Managed to get the Manual for my bike which was suggested by all. Checked on how to check oil and it says on jiffy stand and give time for the oil to heat up. Thanks. Now I have another questions. Bare with me and remember that I am a former Japanese biker. Ever since I've started riding my Harley, I've noticed that I am hearing the tapping of the valves. When I bought the bike from the Harley Shop Mechanic he told me he had modded the bike and had put a Mechanical Cam in there but didn't really know what that meant. So went to see my mechanically enclined brother who explained that Japanese have Overhead Cams which directly push the valves. On the other hand Harleys are like car engines with Push Rods. He also explained that a Mechanical Cam will make more tapping sound with the valves rather than a Hydraulic cam but I won't get into the details since he lost me at that part! LOL My question is, is it normal for me to hear this tic, tic, tic from the valves like my brother says. Thanks Everyone for all your previous answers, they were greatly appreciated. |
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#2 |
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Administrator
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Illinois, USA
Posts: 15,907
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Yes, it's normal. Sounds nice I think.
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#3 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Daytona Beach, FL
Posts: 4,257
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"he told me he had modded the bike and had put a Mechanical Cam in there "
Umm...okay then. You may have mentioned it earlier, but what kind of Harley do you have and what year model? We may get cornfused over terminology here, but all, or most, Harleys have "mechanical" cams and pushrods. They can have either a single cam, two cams, or four cams, depending on the above. And they can have tappets or they can have hydraulic lifters. (Or they can have a chain driven dual overhead cam, too.) For the most part, the click-click-click at idle is normal. But that all depends on what you have, and the comment the guy made to you about "put in a mechanical cam" sounds kinda hosed up. |
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#4 |
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Administrator
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Illinois, USA
Posts: 15,907
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I've heard the sound described as "A gasoline-powered music box". I liked that.
The bike is a 2000 Super Glide I believe.
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#5 |
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Motorcyclist
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 11
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Hmmmm. sorry for my mistake. Maybe I was wrong in my phrasing of the terms since I am not the mechanic of the family.
But maybe it wasn't an MECHANICAL CAM rather it was MECHANICAL LIFTER rather than HYDRAULIC LIFTERS. But I will try to get more information and will be back As for the year and model it is a 2001 FXDX which was originally a 1450 and is now a 1550. I have to push a pressure relief valve on each cylinder before I start the bike. Thanks people for your quick replies and reassuring comments. |
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#6 |
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Administrator
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Illinois, USA
Posts: 15,907
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I'm not sure of the reason to change to a mechanical lifter, maybe more performance?
Would there be a maintenence interval for adjusting the valves since they are no longer hydraulic?
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#7 |
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Verified
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wrong Turn, West Virginia
Posts: 63
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Solid lifters are for racing, period. Other than that, they do absolutely nothing for a street ridden bike except reduce the life of the engine and require more frequent pushrod adjustment. Not knowing the exact configuration of the engine, cam lift?, shaved heads? etc ... A high lift cam with heavy duty valve springs is gonna produce more noise anyway as the valves slam shut faster and with more force.
There are a lot of things a bike shop will try to talk you into especially if you want performance but don't know specifically what you need. Unless you've got super stiff valve springs, you could go back to hydraulic lifters and install rev-rings. This will give you comparable performance without the need to keep an eye on pushrod adjustment. The top end should be relatively quiet. I've noticed that the ethanol content, that has replaced the MTBE in gasoline, causes more noise. If you have pressure release valves then you have a high compression engine of 11.5:1 or higher. Always run the highest octane gasoline you can buy. All the best Last edited by WVEngraver; 07-11-2009 at 12:45 AM.. |
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#8 |
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Motorcyclist
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 11
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Well went back to see the mechanic and asked more details about what he had done to the bike.
He put some stiffer valve springs and mechanical lifters. As you said he said mechanical lifters gave more performance. He mentioned something about 103 hp at the back wheel but I don't even know what it is originally. Thanks so much people for all your quick and very helpful replies. You contribute to taking out some of the worries of an ex-japanese rider! Thanks to all! |
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#9 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Daytona Beach, FL
Posts: 4,257
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As WVEngraver said, solid (mechanical) lifters on an evo are for racing. Period. By themselves, the lifters and springs will NOT generate 103 hp, so if that's what your bike turns it's either had many other modifications or your mechanic is peeing on your leg.
The stock unit is a hydraulic lifter that requires no adjustment and some clicking, especialy noticable at idle, is normal. The mechanical lifter requires frequent valve lash adjustment and that's most often done (depending on what exactly was installed,) by adjusting the lifter itself or the expandable pushrod. If you hear clicking with the mechanical lifter and it stays constant with the engine RPM then you very well may have an adjustment issue. If not carefully adjusted and maintained they can cause very premature wear to the cam, pushrods, rocker arms, and / or valve stems and seals. |
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