Has anyone ever tried to remove rust like this?

[YamahaFan]

http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-remove-rust

Question is - is it exactly how he said? or anything I need to be aware of? I remember back in the old days we used to make batteries out of experiments like this. This is the reverse process, and I'm going to try (to get rust out of my exhaust pipe), so if anyone has any tips great, or if just looking forward for results ... well, ya gotta wait

[iamgumby]

Yepper Pepper!





Find the washing soda - it is superior to the baking soda!

[rexmitchell]

I am moving this to the How to section, I have a manifold pipe on my RC that I might try this on.

[YamahaFan]

Dang it this sucks: I can't find washing soda around my area, think I have to order it from Amazon and wait for about a week
Gumby, questions:

- If I remember correctly about the chemical reaction you'd have to replace the steel rod/bar from time to time right?
- Do you change the mixture (water/washing soda) or just add more washing soda? Either way how do we know when to do that?

Thx,

[laddy88]

That is awesome. Most of my stuff is rusty and this is like Mana from the grocery shelf. If I can find that Washing Powder, I dont think I have seen it in my area (eastern PA0 either. Great video. Thanks Lad

[the_Bird]

It seems dumb to order something like this online, but I'm pretty sure this is the stuff you want if you can't find it locally.

Yeah, good luck finding the powder in ANY store. I found a place online that is reasonably priced:

ARM & HAMMER® Super Washing Soda®:
http://greatcleaners.com/Products/Ar...ID-33200-03020

This process really does work like magic. I did a seat pan and was shocked at how good it worked.

Yes your “sacrificial anode” should not be anything you want to keep. I used some coils of old baling wire (the more surface area the better), and you will need to pull them every so often to clean them (wire brush, hourly if bad) otherwise it will slow the process. You can get by with one tub of mixture unless your item is REALLY rusty. Then a change of solution might be in order at about 60-70% of the process.

[laddy88]

WOW!!
After screwing with old cars and bikes for 30 years now I find this.
That was always my stumjbling block. Trying to rust clean enough to paint. THANKYOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LAD

[YamahaFan]

Originally Posted by the_Bird

It seems dumb to order something like this online, but I'm pretty sure this is the stuff you want if you can't find it locally.

It is the stuff - but I found it at my local Super Stop & Shop (checked Target, Walmart, Sears, HomeDepot, Lowes) for $2.99 lol. Apparently it's in the same row as detergent, so find any local stores that sell detergent stuff.

But, my problem now is finding a battery charger that doesn't have the safety features (that cut off the current when it doesn't detect a battery). Heh what a bummer! Any idea? Would a regular AC-DC converter work?

[laddy88]

Never thought about that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was going to try my float charger for the bike battery.
Very low amp though if it works may take longer.
My first mission is to find the silicon carbonate. I read that they use it in potytery making so I may try AC moore or MIchaels or another crafts store.

[YamahaFan]

I just bought this from Sears, seems to be working (got bubbles coming up). Will post updates

[laddy88]

What setting are you using??

[YamahaFan]

Before I started
PICT01.JPG

I set that charger at 10A, but I don't think it makes a difference at either because when I switched it the meter showed the same.
Close look at the anode after a while
PICT02.JPG

the part after a bunch of anode cleanups and being left overnight, don't think it's done yet though
PICT04.JPG

Reusable? I doubt it, but I poured it into another bucket and let it there to see if it's going to set down
PICT05.JPG

This is what I use to clean the anodes (I use 2 metal sticks, switching back and forth) - thanks to Custom85VT for the tip, otherwise it'd take a long time using sanding paper :P
PICT06.JPG

Right now I'm still trying to find the most effective anode I can use around the house. One thing I noticed: if the part is too rusty I can just use the wire wheel to brush off a bit to speed up the process.

Oh and if you can clean the part up (dirt, and in my case: carbon that built up inside the pipe jointer) do it prior to this, because the bucket'd be just ... dirtier than it would have been (see the picture of the bucket)

[iamgumby]

Sorry I was late. It looks like you have everything in hand. I used a chunk of galvanized pipe because that's what I had laying around the shop. I couldn't find any washing soda anywhere - so I used baking soda. It worked OK on the bike parks. I read that you got it bubbling - that's the ticket. I left mine going for a couple of days. I would think that the more substantial metal the anode is the better it would work - things like angle iron or heavy strap or pipe. Looking, good!

Wow I read that you will have little success with Baking Soda. Wonder how you pulled that off Gumby??? Washing Soda being sodium carbonate and Baking Soda is sodium bicarbonate. I discovered through trial and error that when doing a large piece that it help to rotate the piece (during anode cleaning breaks) because the side closest to the anode cleans faster (obviously).

[laddy88]

Yam;
For that size tub what amount of powder did you use?
The more you use the better action?????????
Thanks Lad

[YamahaFan]

I used ... probably about 1-2 cup. Not sure because I just poured it in. Guy on video did say one teaspoon per pint of water. And I don't know (yet) if the more the better

[iamgumby]

Originally Posted by Custom85VT

Wow I read that you will have little success with Baking Soda. Wonder how you pulled that off Gumby???

I dumped a whole box of baking soda in a bit less than 1 & 1/2 gal of water and left it bubbling for the better part of 2 days and used a big anode with small parts. When I find washing soda I intend to stock up on it. Used to see it everywhere. Some jackass must have found a way to make dope with it and now its a PITS to get?

[laddy88]

they also sell it in swimming pool supplies at all stores. PH+ is sodium carbonate.
I dont know how the price matches the washing soda but it is an option

[Goliath616]

Originally Posted by iamgumby

Some jackass must have found a way to make dope with it and now its a PITS to get?

PITS to get? Pain In The Shlong?? I always thought it was a PITA.....

I don't worry about rust yet, my bike isn't quite a year old yet

[nogoa]

Anybody have any idea what this will do to chrome or painted parts? What about loosening a rusted in bolt?

[YamahaFan]

I have no idea, but I'm sure I'll try something else soon.

There was another video on that same site that showed people using Alka-seizer for removing rust on small part. All you need is a small cup/bow of water, drop the pill in, wait for a few seconds and drop the part in, stir it a bit and come out shiny. I might try that too if I can find anything small.

[laddy88]

As fgar as rusted bolts I use PB7. or Kroil. Both are great

[RichC]

I have done a fair amout of this kind of rust removal.
I have used several extreamly base chemicals including sodium and potassium hydroxide.
They work really well but they are quite dangerous.

Use caution, this stuff will eat your skin off !!!
Have some vinigar or lemon juice ready to nutralize it if you get some on you cz water wont work fast enough.

sodium hydroxide ( lye ) and potassium hydroxide ( really evil stuff )

Red Devil Lye, the drain cleaner contains sodium hydroxide.
You can find it at some hardware stores.

potassium hydroxide is used in making liquid soaps and can be found at candle and soap making places.

Small amounts of the chemicals seem to work as well as large amounts.
I use a table spoon or two in five gallons.

I use whatever scrap metal I have lying around as the sacrificial anode.
Have not noticed much difference.
A friend suggested using stainless steel, but I have not tried that yet.

And I have learned if you put the battery charger clamp in the water during cleaning
it will be slowly disolved after a time of use.
Now I just use some wire to connect to the part I am cleaning, and connect that to the battery charger clamp.

[YamahaFan]

Thanks RichC.
I'll stick with the Sodium Carbonate. I've seen skin got eaten by the other stuff you mentioned - not a pretty sight. Sodium Carbonate (washing soda) is still dangerous but lighter.

I noticed the clamp as well, just thought it wouldn't be that bad. Thanks for the warning. I'll be using a metal string as well

[Max007]

okay....but you can try to chrome with the process.
this is electroplating (i hope this is how it`s spelled), and with this process i think you can chrome...
you could first put layer of copper on the piece....
then find a nickel piece and set a layer on the piece...
and the final layer would be from a chrome piece...
this is done this way because copper sticks great to iron and other materials, and nickel sticks great to copper, and the chrome stick best to nickel, and gives the great chrome look!

Cheers!

[RichC]

The electrons caused to move by the battery charger actually move backwards from what you would think.

They move from the negative to the positive.

I would think in order to electroplate a peice it would need to be connected to the positive
terminal and the sacrificail anode connected to the negative.

But I really dont know about this one.
Never tried electroplating.

[YamahaFan]

I have heard of electroplating, even learned the basic back in highschool, but never actually seen it in action. Basically just like Max007 said - the metal to be plated is on positive clamp (anode), and metal that plates is on the negative clamp (cathod). Just gotta make sure there is no rust on either lol

[frierfly]

If anyone here does Electroplate parts, make sure to dispose of the waste properly. The source electroplating solutions are usually very nasty in terms of environmental impact.

[Max007]

yeah if you use the chromium hexavanate (or what is it spelled),
you will get the "erin brocowich" effect, that is the electroplating using the chrome particles from the solution, not from an object...
that solution is highly toxic and that`s why you cannot open your own...
Chrome shop. because of the enviromental issues.
At least in my country it`s impossible to do that!

If someone tries it i`ll be more than curious to know the effects and the whole process.

cheers.

[crazyjohn]

use phosporic acid .it removes rust,available at home depot paint section as a concrete etch. cleans up with soapy water and then alcohol .cost is $14.00

[Heavy Metal Flyer]

I am assuming one cannot perform this operation on a chromed part?

[crazyjohn]

i have used it on a heavily rusted chromed mirror stem and it removed all of the rust after a 15 min submersion . there was no damage to the chrome, but the damage caused by the rust `bumps? still remained. nice and shiny though. i`ll try it on some other parts that are not as heavily damaged.let you know

[blackspot]

hi thanks its so good

[semerm12]

I have never heard about that- I thought he was going to soak it in cola....

[Bcruisin]

If you ar real careful try some muriatic acid from pool supply or even home depot I have used it on heavily rusted metals (no paint or chrome) i use it on old tools and some equipment motor mounts

[jamescaulkett]

loads of cheap washing powder in boiling hot water and let it soad till you can put your hand in the water then use a scrubbing brush or wire wool and scrub at it

[Tazy Tiger]

A friend had a car restoration business and out the back of their shop they had a mollasses bath, boy did it shift rust and scale and it's a natural product.

[Jeannine]

Interesting...I have an old wagon that 65 station wagon that could use a good soak!