General Maintenance Help

Maynard · 07-08-2012, 01:20 PM

im just gonna say right now that i know nothing about motorcycles and would very much like to learn some general things about my bike

i just bought a 99 Vulcan 750 and had a few questions. The bike has a mounted center stand and I am not a moron so i feel like there are alot of general maintenance things i can do myself. I just dont want to learn the hard way

Coolant - what kind should i use and how much water should i mix?

Oil - what should i use? how often should i change the oil? i read through the oil thread and it seems like you change the oil and filter for winter storage and then when you take it out in spring...is that really the case?

this may be stupid...is the oil fill cap supposed to be super tight? i cant get it off with my hands....is that normal?

Driveshaft - the manual talks about final gear oil...is this refering to the rear differential?

how often should this be changed and what oil should i use?
How about checking this oil? looks like a large cap unscrews to check it....is there another way or is that how its done?

Brake fluid - how often should this be changed? how often should i open the case and check it?

if anyone can add any general tips i appreciate it. all this stuff is 2nd nature on a car for me, but on a motorcycle i am lost. i will probably ask a bunch more noob questions....thanks

WintrSol · 07-08-2012, 02:14 PM

Coolant - any brand will do, just check for low silicon or silicone content.

Oil - preferably an oil rated for motorcycles, which is the JASO rating. Just avoid auto oils which say 'fuel saving', as they will make your clutch slip.

Oil caps often tighten up with heat cycles, so, not unusual.

Driveshaft - yes, they mean the 'pumpkin' at the rear; since there is only one wheel to drive, it is not a differential. This is usually changed once after break-in, but many of us change it out first thing with 75W90 or similar Hypoid oil, if we don't know the history of the bike. There should be two plugs on the pumpkin, the bottom one is the drain, the top is the fill and check. Check with the bike vertical (centerstand will do); the oil should just reach the hole.

Brake fluid - should be changed, at a minimum, every two years, same for cars. If you have a hydraulic clutch, it may need it more often.

Generally, check all the nuts/bolts which hold the bike together for tightness, make sure the battery is properly filled if it is not a sealed battery, look for grease fittings on the swingarm and anywhere else and use them. Make sure the shock preload settings are the same on both shocks. At that age, you might consider replacing the fork oil, too. Running a tank or two treated with a good cleaner, like Seafoam, may be a good idea.

Maynard · 07-09-2012, 09:42 PM

thanks for the tips.

i have a small issue. the gas tank rattles. If i put one of my knees up against the tank the vibration stops along with the rattle. Maybe just a loose bolt....or is there some sort of rubber piece or gasket that might be faulty?

tomorrow i am going to look for where the tank meets the seat to see if there is anything loose. Any thoughts on what i should look for?

Dodsfall · 07-10-2012, 09:12 AM

The oil change interval will be listed in the owner's manual or service manual. It's usually somewhere between 3000-5000 miles. You can't go wrong sticking to the manufacturer's recommendation on the interval.

Use the oil weight recommended by the manufacturer. Sometimes more than one weight of oil will be recommended, depending on temperature. The thinner oil is used for cold weather and the thicker oil for hot weather.

If you change the oil before storing the motorcycle, you don't need to change it again in the spring.

Some motorcycles have a window in the engine case where you check the oil level, some use a dipstick similar to a car, and others are read where the fill cap enters the engine case.

Depending on the type of oil fill cap, you can probably loosen it with a crescent wrench. Don't use the wrench to tighten it again, though.

There could be a rubber bushing for the fuel tank, but most I have owned simply bolt on in the front and back of the tank. It would be a good idea to check the torque on the bolts holding the tank on, as well as any other critical fasteners like the engine mounts, brake caliper bolts, handlebar riser bolts, and axle nuts.

I would strongly recommend picking up the service manual for the motorcycle if you plan on doing your own maintenance. Following the factory service schedule and having the proper specs for the motorcycle will save a ton of headaches and likely a lot of money in repairs if something is missed.

FNA · 07-10-2012, 04:29 PM

As stated, if you want to service bike, get service manual. If you are lucky, you received owners manual with your 13 year old machine. Lots of general and specific info in there, but service manual is best.

Many bikes have rubber dampers/bushings/grommets etc for tank mounting. Grab the tank and muscle it around. See where your movement is and look there. Look for something on one side you don't see on the other.

Oil caps should not require a tool to remove and in my experience this doesn't 'just happen'. (Maybe I have strong hands). make sure cap is not cross-threaded, re-install by hand or replace as necessary. Channel-lock pliers will help remove.

Maynard · 07-11-2012, 03:18 PM

i do have the service manual, but it was on a CD in pdf format. i can print it out, but its already fuzzy and b/w

i was able to take take care of my gas tank rattle. i had to take the seat off which was nothing more than 2 bolts. this gave me access to one of the 3 tank bolts. i tighten
all 3 and the rattle is gone now

i got some seafoam and added some into the tank. I also talked to the guy i bought the bike from and he said he used prestone...its green and no silicants like the manual states

thanks for all the feedback...its very helpful

Maynard · 07-20-2012, 12:32 PM

im not sure about the final gear oil. in the manual it says to unscrew the filler cap and that the oil level should be near the bottom thread...if not to add oil in the filler opening then replace the filler cap....

it seems that the pumpkin as mentioned earlier in this thread is my filler cap and also the same spot that i add oil. but this is what i am unsure about....is this in fact where i add the oil?

Maynard · 07-20-2012, 12:33 PM

this is not my bike but is an identical picture. you can see the cap i am talking about to the far right on the center of the rear rim

Dodsfall · 07-20-2012, 01:43 PM

The fill opening is the one that you check the level at. Most gear boxes will have a fill and a drain opening. You use the higher one to fill, of course.

WintrSol · 07-20-2012, 10:16 PM

Make sure the bike is fully vertical when checking, not on the side stand. A helper or a lift is needed. It looks like you have a very small drain bolt at the bottom of the pumpkin, and a large fill/check plug at the rear, even with the axle. BTW, hypoid oil has a definite odor, unlike other oils; if yours it really strong smelling, though, it probably needs replacing.

Maynard · 07-21-2012, 11:20 AM

in the pic at the 2 oclock position you can see where a bolt is...there is a hex bolt there. the manual and service manual dont say if this is the fill hole. the only thing they mention is the filler cap

i did remove the filler cap and the oil came to the lower threads as the manual states. i did not notice an odor of any kind and i was about 6 inchs away from the opening. I know it was changed just before i bought the bike...i just wanted to make sure on how to check the oil.

one unrelated thing i am concerned with....i noticed a few drops of oil in my garage. 3 drops specifically. 1 was under the oil filter, and 2 others near the drain plug.

the bike had a little build up of oil on the lower side of the engine. this area was not at all cleaned by me until after i noticed the drops of oil. I am hoping that this is where the drops came from. They appeared after a long ride...so maybe the heat of the ride warmed up this old built up oil and cause it to lay down 3 drops.

I am mentioning the 3 drops because of the specific area they were located under, but a few days before i noticed a few drops too...also occurring after long rides. Like i said i just cleaned the lower side of the motor, but still need to go a for a long ride today to see if i notice any other leaks.

wanted to get some feedback on this if possible

Maynard · 07-21-2012, 11:54 AM

here is a close up of my rear wheel. I know the large cap in the center is where to check....is that smaller hex bolt on top where i fill? and the lower bolt where i drain?

WintrSol · 07-21-2012, 01:04 PM

Quote:

one unrelated thing i am concerned with....i noticed a few drops of oil in my garage. 3 drops specifically. 1 was under the oil filter, and 2 others near the drain plug.

It is very likely the oil filter seal has a small leak, and air flow just pushed the oil to the bottom of the engine, were it collected around the drain. Did you change the filter yourself? It is not unusual for the seal not to seat correctly, if it wasn't prepared properly.
Without a manual, I can't say what that allen bolt at the 1 o'clock position is for, so I wouldn't disturb it. It could be an adjustment that you don't want to disturb. The large cap is at about the right level for the final drive oil, and the bolt at the bottom is clearly a drain. With the bike up on what is now clearly a center stand, you're set to check out the oil in there.

Maynard · 07-21-2012, 03:20 PM

thanks for the feedback. i did not change the oil. it has not been changed since i have had the bike...i will probably do that myself when the riding season is over.

i did have the bike on the center stand and checked the final drive oil. it was up to the lower thread as the manual stated it should be.

looking at that pic i posted made me realize i need to clean the bike again. spent the last 3 hours cleaning and waxing it up....now i will be off for the next 4 hour dirtying it up again....good times

Maynard · 07-22-2012, 07:29 PM

so took the bike for another longer ride today. i ad cleaned up the bottom side of the motor and tighten up all bolts. But after i came home and parked it i noticed another 2 or 3 drops had leaked.

so obviously something is leaking from the lower side of the motor...not the oil filter. i have no idea what it could be...is it a gasket? is there any type of oil leak stop fluid that can be used? how concerned should i be

if there is any other suggestions to resolve this please let me know

Dodsfall · 07-22-2012, 08:04 PM

I would advise against using an additive to stop a leak. I would be afraid that it has the potential to block oil from going where it should go as well.

The right way to do the job is track down exactly which seal or gasket is leaking and replace it. Oil will flow down from higher up due to gravity and be flung backwards due to the wind from riding.

The place where you see it dripping is often not near where it's actually leaking from. Thoroughly cleaning the engine and closely inspecting an suspect seals or gaskets for leaking is the best route. A dry white powder such as baby powder or foot powder lightly sprayed over a dry engine may help any leaky spots stand out more by sticking to any spots that are wet with oil.

Maynard · 07-22-2012, 09:10 PM

the thing that makes it tough is that it only leaks a few drops after i take it out for a period of time. After its parked, small beads of oil slowly run down the grooves of the bottom of the engine and leak to the left (the bike is on the side stand so it rolls down to that side).

i can see that its coming out of the area near one of the 10 MM bolts on the bottom of the engine. I made sure these were tight. There are 5 of these small bolts in the center of the bottom of the engine ( i would call this the oil pan if it was a car) going from front to back. These 5 bolts bring together the right and left sides of this lower section of the engine and the leak is coming from bolt closest to the rear of the bike

the juice · 08-03-2012, 01:39 PM

As far as your oil filler cap question goes, I might be able to offer a touch of insight...I ride a 2000 Vulcan 800, I don't know how similar it is to your model but it does require a special tool to get the oil cap loose - the cap has a very deep groove, too long and wide to use a flathead screwdriver. Instead of spending money on the special tool cuz that seems stupid, I use a pair of channel locks and an Australian coin to get it loose - American money is too thin. Don't know if that's the case with your bike, but if it helps, great.

07-08-2012, 01:20 PM	#1
Maynard Verified Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 27	General Maintenance Help im just gonna say right now that i know nothing about motorcycles and would very much like to learn some general things about my bike i just bought a 99 Vulcan 750 and had a few questions. The bike has a mounted center stand and I am not a moron so i feel like there are alot of general maintenance things i can do myself. I just dont want to learn the hard way Coolant - what kind should i use and how much water should i mix? Oil - what should i use? how often should i change the oil? i read through the oil thread and it seems like you change the oil and filter for winter storage and then when you take it out in spring...is that really the case? this may be stupid...is the oil fill cap supposed to be super tight? i cant get it off with my hands....is that normal? Driveshaft - the manual talks about final gear oil...is this refering to the rear differential? how often should this be changed and what oil should i use? How about checking this oil? looks like a large cap unscrews to check it....is there another way or is that how its done? Brake fluid - how often should this be changed? how often should i open the case and check it? if anyone can add any general tips i appreciate it. all this stuff is 2nd nature on a car for me, but on a motorcycle i am lost. i will probably ask a bunch more noob questions....thanks

07-08-2012, 02:14 PM	#2
WintrSol Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Florissant, MO Posts: 2,561	Coolant - any brand will do, just check for low silicon or silicone content. Oil - preferably an oil rated for motorcycles, which is the JASO rating. Just avoid auto oils which say 'fuel saving', as they will make your clutch slip. Oil caps often tighten up with heat cycles, so, not unusual. Driveshaft - yes, they mean the 'pumpkin' at the rear; since there is only one wheel to drive, it is not a differential. This is usually changed once after break-in, but many of us change it out first thing with 75W90 or similar Hypoid oil, if we don't know the history of the bike. There should be two plugs on the pumpkin, the bottom one is the drain, the top is the fill and check. Check with the bike vertical (centerstand will do); the oil should just reach the hole. Brake fluid - should be changed, at a minimum, every two years, same for cars. If you have a hydraulic clutch, it may need it more often. Generally, check all the nuts/bolts which hold the bike together for tightness, make sure the battery is properly filled if it is not a sealed battery, look for grease fittings on the swingarm and anywhere else and use them. Make sure the shock preload settings are the same on both shocks. At that age, you might consider replacing the fork oil, too. Running a tank or two treated with a good cleaner, like Seafoam, may be a good idea. __________________ '68-7? CB450 and '05 S50 Boulevard

07-10-2012, 09:12 AM	#4
Dodsfall Administrator Join Date: May 2008 Location: Illinois, USA Posts: 15,879	The oil change interval will be listed in the owner's manual or service manual. It's usually somewhere between 3000-5000 miles. You can't go wrong sticking to the manufacturer's recommendation on the interval. Use the oil weight recommended by the manufacturer. Sometimes more than one weight of oil will be recommended, depending on temperature. The thinner oil is used for cold weather and the thicker oil for hot weather. If you change the oil before storing the motorcycle, you don't need to change it again in the spring. Some motorcycles have a window in the engine case where you check the oil level, some use a dipstick similar to a car, and others are read where the fill cap enters the engine case. Depending on the type of oil fill cap, you can probably loosen it with a crescent wrench. Don't use the wrench to tighten it again, though. There could be a rubber bushing for the fuel tank, but most I have owned simply bolt on in the front and back of the tank. It would be a good idea to check the torque on the bolts holding the tank on, as well as any other critical fasteners like the engine mounts, brake caliper bolts, handlebar riser bolts, and axle nuts. I would strongly recommend picking up the service manual for the motorcycle if you plan on doing your own maintenance. Following the factory service schedule and having the proper specs for the motorcycle will save a ton of headaches and likely a lot of money in repairs if something is missed. __________________ 2008 XL1200R To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-20-2012, 01:43 PM	#9
Dodsfall Administrator Join Date: May 2008 Location: Illinois, USA Posts: 15,879	The fill opening is the one that you check the level at. Most gear boxes will have a fill and a drain opening. You use the higher one to fill, of course. __________________ 2008 XL1200R To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-20-2012, 10:16 PM	#10
WintrSol Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Florissant, MO Posts: 2,561	Make sure the bike is fully vertical when checking, not on the side stand. A helper or a lift is needed. It looks like you have a very small drain bolt at the bottom of the pumpkin, and a large fill/check plug at the rear, even with the axle. BTW, hypoid oil has a definite odor, unlike other oils; if yours it really strong smelling, though, it probably needs replacing. __________________ '68-7? CB450 and '05 S50 Boulevard

07-09-2012, 09:42 PM	#3
Maynard Verified Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 27	thanks for the tips. i have a small issue. the gas tank rattles. If i put one of my knees up against the tank the vibration stops along with the rattle. Maybe just a loose bolt....or is there some sort of rubber piece or gasket that might be faulty? tomorrow i am going to look for where the tank meets the seat to see if there is anything loose. Any thoughts on what i should look for?

07-10-2012, 04:29 PM	#5
FNA Master At Arms Join Date: May 2012 Location: South Jersey Posts: 121	As stated, if you want to service bike, get service manual. If you are lucky, you received owners manual with your 13 year old machine. Lots of general and specific info in there, but service manual is best. Many bikes have rubber dampers/bushings/grommets etc for tank mounting. Grab the tank and muscle it around. See where your movement is and look there. Look for something on one side you don't see on the other. Oil caps should not require a tool to remove and in my experience this doesn't 'just happen'. (Maybe I have strong hands). make sure cap is not cross-threaded, re-install by hand or replace as necessary. Channel-lock pliers will help remove.

07-11-2012, 03:18 PM	#6
Maynard Verified Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 27	i do have the service manual, but it was on a CD in pdf format. i can print it out, but its already fuzzy and b/w i was able to take take care of my gas tank rattle. i had to take the seat off which was nothing more than 2 bolts. this gave me access to one of the 3 tank bolts. i tighten all 3 and the rattle is gone now i got some seafoam and added some into the tank. I also talked to the guy i bought the bike from and he said he used prestone...its green and no silicants like the manual states thanks for all the feedback...its very helpful

07-20-2012, 12:32 PM	#7
Maynard Verified Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 27	im not sure about the final gear oil. in the manual it says to unscrew the filler cap and that the oil level should be near the bottom thread...if not to add oil in the filler opening then replace the filler cap.... it seems that the pumpkin as mentioned earlier in this thread is my filler cap and also the same spot that i add oil. but this is what i am unsure about....is this in fact where i add the oil?

07-20-2012, 12:33 PM	#8
Maynard Verified Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 27	this is not my bike but is an identical picture. you can see the cap i am talking about to the far right on the center of the rear rim

07-21-2012, 11:20 AM	#11
Maynard Verified Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 27	in the pic at the 2 oclock position you can see where a bolt is...there is a hex bolt there. the manual and service manual dont say if this is the fill hole. the only thing they mention is the filler cap i did remove the filler cap and the oil came to the lower threads as the manual states. i did not notice an odor of any kind and i was about 6 inchs away from the opening. I know it was changed just before i bought the bike...i just wanted to make sure on how to check the oil. one unrelated thing i am concerned with....i noticed a few drops of oil in my garage. 3 drops specifically. 1 was under the oil filter, and 2 others near the drain plug. the bike had a little build up of oil on the lower side of the engine. this area was not at all cleaned by me until after i noticed the drops of oil. I am hoping that this is where the drops came from. They appeared after a long ride...so maybe the heat of the ride warmed up this old built up oil and cause it to lay down 3 drops. I am mentioning the 3 drops because of the specific area they were located under, but a few days before i noticed a few drops too...also occurring after long rides. Like i said i just cleaned the lower side of the motor, but still need to go a for a long ride today to see if i notice any other leaks. wanted to get some feedback on this if possible

07-21-2012, 03:20 PM	#14
Maynard Verified Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 27	thanks for the feedback. i did not change the oil. it has not been changed since i have had the bike...i will probably do that myself when the riding season is over. i did have the bike on the center stand and checked the final drive oil. it was up to the lower thread as the manual stated it should be. looking at that pic i posted made me realize i need to clean the bike again. spent the last 3 hours cleaning and waxing it up....now i will be off for the next 4 hour dirtying it up again....good times

07-22-2012, 07:29 PM	#15
Maynard Verified Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 27	so took the bike for another longer ride today. i ad cleaned up the bottom side of the motor and tighten up all bolts. But after i came home and parked it i noticed another 2 or 3 drops had leaked. so obviously something is leaking from the lower side of the motor...not the oil filter. i have no idea what it could be...is it a gasket? is there any type of oil leak stop fluid that can be used? how concerned should i be if there is any other suggestions to resolve this please let me know

07-22-2012, 08:04 PM	#16
Dodsfall Administrator Join Date: May 2008 Location: Illinois, USA Posts: 15,879	I would advise against using an additive to stop a leak. I would be afraid that it has the potential to block oil from going where it should go as well. The right way to do the job is track down exactly which seal or gasket is leaking and replace it. Oil will flow down from higher up due to gravity and be flung backwards due to the wind from riding. The place where you see it dripping is often not near where it's actually leaking from. Thoroughly cleaning the engine and closely inspecting an suspect seals or gaskets for leaking is the best route. A dry white powder such as baby powder or foot powder lightly sprayed over a dry engine may help any leaky spots stand out more by sticking to any spots that are wet with oil. __________________ 2008 XL1200R To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07-22-2012, 09:10 PM	#17
Maynard Verified Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 27	the thing that makes it tough is that it only leaks a few drops after i take it out for a period of time. After its parked, small beads of oil slowly run down the grooves of the bottom of the engine and leak to the left (the bike is on the side stand so it rolls down to that side). i can see that its coming out of the area near one of the 10 MM bolts on the bottom of the engine. I made sure these were tight. There are 5 of these small bolts in the center of the bottom of the engine ( i would call this the oil pan if it was a car) going from front to back. These 5 bolts bring together the right and left sides of this lower section of the engine and the leak is coming from bolt closest to the rear of the bike

08-03-2012, 01:39 PM	#18
the juice Verified Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 71	As far as your oil filler cap question goes, I might be able to offer a touch of insight...I ride a 2000 Vulcan 800, I don't know how similar it is to your model but it does require a special tool to get the oil cap loose - the cap has a very deep groove, too long and wide to use a flathead screwdriver. Instead of spending money on the special tool cuz that seems stupid, I use a pair of channel locks and an Australian coin to get it loose - American money is too thin. Don't know if that's the case with your bike, but if it helps, great.

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