SAE oil used by accident....

[haddockkl]

I just inherited a CB360 that's spent most of its life sitting, its a 75 and has less than 2K miles on the odometer. At any rate two years ago my brother got it back into working order but not knowing about non-detergent oil filled it up with SAE oil. He rode it for about 300 miles and progressed to a 750 Nighthawk... and along the way learned a lot about maintenance. He did not however change the oil, which I'm about to do. It doesn't seem to slip form what he told me, so I'm wondering if I should just forget about it and ride on, or should I do some preventative maint and change the friction disks? Thanks for any insights.

[KMWilliams]

I'd drain it, put some 15w-40 Shell Rotella in there, and see how it rides.

I'll bet its fine.

[CharlesW]

First off:
You don't want non-detergent oil.

If the oil he put in the bike was not labeled "Energy Conserving" in the API circular label on the container, no harm done. If he used an oil labeled energy conserving, I would change both the oil and filter. Not sure the CB360 had a filter so you might only need to change the oil.

You do need to use oil that meets certain API standards, but it should not be labeled Energy Conserving.
I don't know off hand the API standards for oil to be used in a motorcycle.
You will need to research that yourself.

[haddockkl]

Thanks guys, an oil change was in her future anyway, along with some braided stainless brake lines. I think it has a centrifugal oil filter, so I'm going to read up and see about cleaning that out too.

[CharlesW]

Originally Posted by haddockkl

Thanks guys, an oil change was in her future anyway, along with some braided stainless brake lines. I think it has a centrifugal oil filter, so I'm going to read up and see about cleaning that out too.

I doubt that cleaning the centrifugal is necessary, but I guess it can't hurt.

The reason for not using energy conserving oil in a wet clutch motor is the thought that the increased slickness/lubrication properties required to earn that designation can cause the clutch plates to slip.
Sounds logical. (Kinda)

I have never experienced that since I have never used the energy conserving oil in a motorcycle.

[bountyhunter]

Energy conserving oils have molybdendum disulphide (MOLY) in them as an alleged friction reducing agent. The fiber on the clutch plates will soak it up and slip. Once loaded up with moly, the clutch is hosed.

[benny hedges]

you want a 10w40 in a cb200 mate.... 15w is too thick and could cause clutch problem.
you wont have caused any damage by running wrong oil but get it good & warm before changing it out & clean the oil filter too

[haddockkl]

Whats the interval that the centrifugal filters are supposed to be cleaned out, and does it require any special tools outside of those required to get the side cover off?

[CharlesW]

Originally Posted by haddockkl

Whats the interval that the centrifugal filters are supposed to be cleaned out, and does it require any special tools outside of those required to get the side cover off?

The only information I can pass on regarding your questions is to be careful that you don't strip the heads of the screws that hold the side cover on.
My early Hondas had a tendency for the screws to be extremely tight.
My best results removing them were when I used a hand impact driver.
You can buy them for under $10 or as much as $80.
The cheap ones have always worked for me.

[haddockkl]

Originally Posted by CharlesW

The only information I can pass on regarding your questions is to be careful that you don't strip the heads of the screws that hold the side cover on.
My early Hondas had a tendency for the screws to be extremely tight.
My best results removing them were when I used a hand impact driver.
You can buy them for under $10 or as much as $80.
The cheap ones have always worked for me.

I'm with ya there Charles, here are some pics of my CM91 up. I picked her up last fall and it wasn't much more than an assembled basket case. I'd have been up a creek without an impact driver.

h ttp://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/thatoneguy82/CM91%20project/Picture039.jpg
h ttp://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/thatoneguy82/CM91%20project/Picture041.jpg

[Blaine]

Once loaded up with moly, the clutch is hosed.

Possibly but one of the old wings I bought had that very problem. I ran about a half a quart of seafoam in the oil and ran it for a about 40 miles around town. Flushed the engine twice with fresh oil and filter and no more clutch slipping. Not only that I was having problems with the starter clutch and it cleaned it up as well.

[LWRider]

Originally Posted by haddockkl

Whats the interval that the centrifugal filters are supposed to be cleaned out, and does it require any special tools outside of those required to get the side cover off?

I clean mine out every other oil change.

[haddockkl]

Originally Posted by LWRider

I clean mine out every other oil change.

Anything in particular to look for, or suggestions?
I've got to overhaul the front caliper too and upgrade the brake lines for sure, maybe while I'm there I could replace the fork seals.

[LWRider]

Originally Posted by haddockkl

Anything in particular to look for, or suggestions?
I've got to overhaul the front caliper too and upgrade the brake lines for sure, maybe while I'm there I could replace the fork seals.

Well, all I would recommend is "don't fix it if it ain't broke." Something I wish I had heeded myself a time or two.

Cheers,

Mike

[haddockkl]

LWRider, I might follow that mantra. Unfortunately my fork seals are bad, really bad. The swipes are all kinds of cracked, and there's fork oil all over the tubes. I haven't got a proper manual but I do have the original service manual, it does not however cover how to disassemble the forks, only how to change the oil in them.