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Old 07-30-2010, 03:13 PM   #41
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I'm going to check that plug out right when I get back. Pretty likely that that is the cause, because that's about where the smoke is coming from.

I remember there was another reoccuring leak on this bike, but a different one. Oil would leak onto one side of the engine (like I said, my bike has been in storage for 13 years, so I can't remember for sure which side, but I think it was on the left side). Anyway, the oil would slowly coat those cooling fins on one side, until one side of the engine looked silver and the other black or brown. I brought it in to get it fixed once, which worked for about 4 months, and then it started leaking again. This time the mechanic told me that it was a chronic problem on Savages. He said he could fix it, but it would likely break again, and at any rate, he said it didn't effect the functioning of the bike. He seems to have been right, because I put another 15K miles on it without an issue, other than having to clean the engine every once in a while. Also, when I checked out other Savages on the street, sure enough, a lot of them had oil coating a good part of one side of the engine.

I think this is another problem though, because I never had smoke coming from that other leak.
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Old 07-31-2010, 05:44 PM   #42
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OK. Spent the day after cutting the lawn in the garage sweating my b**ls off working on the wiring. I unwrapped most of the "harness" which was simply wrapped with electrical tape and went to town testing.

I found my clutch switch working intermittently. A few blasts of contact cleaner got it working consistently. The wire from the start button ran here and then on to the decomp controller, but probably because of the clutch switch wasn't working properly the switch was bypassed. After gettng it working again, I once again routed the wire through it and to the decomp controller, which had also been bypassed. My old one was bad but now I have a new one in its place. So, from the start button to the the clutch switch and then to the decomp controller now. Then the wire was reattached from the decomp controller that went to the starter solenoid.

I also had already tested the neutral switch and it was fine except for the wire just dangling, so I hooked that back up to the diode per the wiring diagram.

I hooked up the new starter solenoid and redid the wires going to the small terminals. I rewrapped the harness and reinstalled the tank, side covers, and seat (I know, too much confidence!). Forgot to check the front brake light switch again before buttoning her up.

I installed the battery again and hit the key and the lights still worked and the turn signals now blink and work all around.

That was it. It was too hot to do more testing. I will wait for later or the morning to try and fire her up. It was so hot out there I could not see for the sweat running in my eyes.

I also received the title Friday, so if I get this thing to fire up again I will be able to put it on the road.

Cheers,

Mike, inching closer
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Old 08-01-2010, 03:08 PM   #43
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Went out today and tried to start the beast. I could hear and see the decomp lever working, so that is good. I also have to hodl the lcutch to start now, which is the way it is supposed to be on this bike, so that little issue is reolved, also.

Problem is I could not get the bike to start. it didn't even make an attempt to fire. So, off is the tank and seat and I am back at it again.

First things first. I checked the rsistance of the coil and although I had no choice but to test it cold (the manual said to do it warm) both resistance measurements were spot on.

Next, I hooked my spark tester up to the spark plug lead, snapped it onto a head fin, and hit the starter. I got a spark (weak) for just an instant and then nothing. I checked continuity for the leads between the ignitor and the coil and both were good. Just for good measure I sprayed the contacts down with contact cleaner and cleaned up the coil temrinals and then reattached everything, hooked up the spark tester again, and got the same results--a spark, then nothing.

So, my conclusion so far is I have a bad ignitor, or perhaps still it is a bad coil with an intermittent failure/success. The book gives me no way to test the ignitor, so I may call Suzuki next time they are open and see what they would charge to bench test mine. There are slews on ebay, but I am a bit leary of buying one of these used just on the word of the seller that it is "good." Unfortunately, new is around $250. I might even be willing to pay that if I can be sure that is the problem. Of course, I could buy a (cheaper) new coil first and eliminate that as the culprit.

While all together with seat, side covers, tank, and all I snapped a coupel pistures of the biek as it will look when road worthy. I'll post those later.

Cheers,

Mike, sparkless in Florida
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Old 08-02-2010, 11:27 AM   #44
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Here are the pictures of the bike all buttoned up and ready for a road test, until I discovered the spark problem. New muffler, front peg, and left rear turn signal and the unseen wiring fixed.





Looking for a like a bike now.

By the way, I started thinking about the possibility of the problem being in the "pickup coil," "signal generator," or "pulse generator" (all names for the same thing in my Clymer's manual--confusing, huh). That seems to be the only other possibility. Someone in a Savage forum also mentioned it, and that they had a similar problem and replacing the signal generator" fixed it for them. I checked the manual and they had a testing procedure for it so I checked it. The resitance is supposed to be between 200 and 240 ohms between the green and orange wires coming from it. Mine tested 230 ohms, so that should eliminate the signal generator as the culprit. I also tested the continuity of the leads from there to the connection to the ignitor and they checked out OK. I still cleaned the contacts, just because.

Another person on that forum offered to post the testing procedure for the ignitor, but has not yet. Cymer says you cannot test it yourself and must have Suzuki do the testing, so hearing that I might be able to test it myself is good to hear. When and if he does I will post that back here for the benefit of all you other thumper owners.

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:53 PM   #45
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Thanks to "thumperclone" on the Savage forum, I now have the resistance figures for testing the igniter. Here is the chart below hopefully for someone else's benefit. The ohms that are correct are in the next to farthest right column and the ohms I got testing my igniter are in the far right column. As you can see, I got nothing even close to what I should have. The readings I got were not even consistent from each time I tested. Funny I got infinity on every test on lead 5, which goes to the coil primary winding--could be a clue.

ignitor unit
5 terminals on top 1>5
4 terminals bottom 7>10 (blank where 6 would be)

1 orange to pick up coil
2,3,4 no connection
5 blk/yel to ign coil primary winding
7 blk to starter relay
8 grn to pick up coil
9 org/wh to ign switch
10 blk/wh GROUND

pos probe on 1
neg probe on--K OHMS-MY OHMS
5--infinity-642
7--300-373
8--500-473
9--200-101
10--200-45
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
5
1--20-Inf
7 --30-Inf
8--20-Inf
9--4.5-Inf
10--2.6-Inf
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

7
1--45-Inf
5--infinity-45
8--45-92
9--18-51
10--17-26
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
8
1--150-Inf
5--infinity-85
7--100-70
9--75-95
10--75-43
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
9
1--11-Inf
5--inf-55
7--17-46
8--11-110
10--2.4-5.5
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
10
1--7-Inf
5--inf -3.56
7--20-16
8--7-Inf
9--2.4-4.35
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I hope the chart makes sense; the formatting did not transfer. Just remember the correct K Ohms is the second from right numbers (right after the double dashes (--).

I found a couple igniters on ebay and ordered one today. I'll report back how that goes once it gets here. For now I cannot think anything but that the igniter is the culprit.

In the meanwhile I will continue to trace my front brake switch problem (only switch not working).

Cheers,

Mike

Last edited by LWRider; 08-03-2010 at 02:03 PM..
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Old 08-05-2010, 03:39 PM   #46
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Igniter has been shipped. Worse part about workin' on old bikes (other than trying to get them apart!) is waiting for parts.

Also, got the title and went to retitle it in my name here in Florida--$170!! Yikes. Being an out-of-state bike I found out I have to have the VIN verified by a law enforcement officer. My b-i-l is a local cop and said he'd come do it; but so far no show. Oh well, gotta wait a bit before shelling out $170 bucks and the bike is not road-worthy yet anyway.

Mike, drumming his fingers on the desk
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Old 08-07-2010, 12:27 PM   #47
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Another update. While waiting for the igniter, I have been trying to figure out the failure of the front brake lever to activate the brake light. After a lot of brainstorming and testing continuity and voltage reaching the switch, I went out today to check some more.

After checking the continuity from the wiring harness connector connecting to the right handlebar switches and from the handlebar side back to the connector, and from the harness side of both back to the light connector, and getting good readings all around, I thought the only other place could be in the connector itself. I looked closely at the terminal coming from the switch in the connector and it looked funny, too high in its little "recess." I took my tester probe and bent it down thinking it might have not been making good contact with its mate. Plugged it all back together and voila! The front brake now activates the taillight.

That makes the last piece of the wiring puzzle to be solved (other than the igniter). Unfortunately, the igniter still did not comein today so it will be until Monday at least before I can see if that puts me on the road.

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 08-07-2010, 02:57 PM   #48
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Cool thread Mike, thanks for sharing the info. My first street bike was a 1986 Suzuki Savage LS650. I purchased it new right out of boot camp. It was black as well. I really enjoyed that bike. I'd like to find an old 86 model and restore it. I think the savage is a cool cruiser.

I remember my hands going numb after a couple of hours riding from the vibration. Brings back memories.
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Old 08-10-2010, 01:24 PM   #49
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Got 'er running today. Plugged the new igniter in and it starter right up---after I remembered I had to hold the clutch in to start the bike, now that I have reconnected all the safety interlocks; wish I had remembered that before I took the saddle and tank off again!

Ran pretty well and with a little adjustment to the idle set screw it should idle without throttle input from me. It backfired quite a bit, but other than that, it ran smoothly. I once again noted a lot of smoke coming from the header where it attaches to the exhaust port. I have a bunch of oil around the pipe there and as I suspected I am going to have to remove the head cover and replace a plug that sits right up above the exhaust pipe. Typical Savage issue. The plug fills an access hole to get to an head bolt right next to the exhaust port. At least I do not have to remove the motor to get to this. WHiel I am at it, I will try to fix the top motor mount that has the moutning bolt broken off in it.

It also looked like the exhaust to cylinder connection might need some attention, perhaps a new gasket. I would not be surprised to see once I open that up that there is no gasket at all.

I think I will still take her for a ride around the block this afternoon when Andrea gets home (and can watch the kids) if it is not raining--again. I'd like to see how it runs up and down through the gears and see if there are any other issues with which I might need to deal. All the lights and electrical systems seem to be working as designed now.

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 08-11-2010, 10:36 AM   #50
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Default On the Road Again!

WooHoo! Just went for a bike ride--on the Savage! Started out rough, lots of popping and backfiring. I almost brought it home after once around the ball fields (complex across the street from the house), but as I rode it it smoothed out. So, I passed the house and kept on riding up around back streets (no plates yet). The backfiring got less and less. It was hesitating and coughing when you tried to put the throttle to it at first, but that got better, too. I came back by the house and decided to run down Lakeshore to Kiwanis Park (about a mile) so I could get in all four gears. All the gears worked fine and by the time I got home, it was running much better and was really rideable.

I do have an oil leak above the exhaust, so when you stop billows of smoke come from there where the oil had dripped onto the exhaust. It looks like not a big thing to fix, just removing the cover on the heads and replacing a plug and sealing it all up. In the meantime I may let it cool down, clean the area and try some high temp sealant on the outside and see if that slows the dripping.

The bike road really well and has lots of torque. The ride is cushy too. The brakes both work fine and all the electrics, lights and all worked perfectly. Even the speedometer worked.

At least now I don't feel like I've been wasting my time with this thing. Another afternoon of work and the leak should be fixed and I can really take it for a ride. I have the title and just need to run up to get the plates, but that unfortunately is $170!

Cheers,

Mike, now riding the "Virgin Whore" as my wife calls it
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:07 AM   #51
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That sounds awesome!! Great job!! Glad it is running well except for that oil leak. You had to have a smile on from ear to ear
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:15 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamjustifyd View Post
You had to have a smile on from ear to ear
Still do!
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:56 AM   #53
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Default Leaky Oil Plug

This leak is a very c ommon problem on the Savage. Here is a picture of the place where the leaky oil plug resides, for the benefit of an Savage owners out there with a similar problem. Not easy to get to.:



And here is the diagram showing where the plug goes in the head cover. It is not necessary to remove the engine to take the cover off.:



Cheers,

Mike

Last edited by LWRider; 08-11-2010 at 11:59 AM..
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Old 08-11-2010, 06:22 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LWRider View Post
WooHoo! Just went for a bike ride--on the Savage!
Mike, now riding the "Virgin Whore" as my wife calls it
Congrat's Mike! that is a cool feeling when you bring one back to life.

Virgin Whore... sounds like congressional budget.
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Old 08-17-2010, 06:31 PM   #55
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Got the Savage registered in my name in Florida today. All that cost me was $220! yikes! For that money, though, I get a cool plate that will say "86 SVG"

I also applied with a long q-tip, some high temp silicone sealant on the outside of the leaking plug. I am not holding out much hope, but maybe at least this will reduce the oil leak enough for me to ride it until it is convenient to pull the head cover.

I think I will take her on her maiden voyage to Fuzzy's on Thursday evening, my "biking night."

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 08-19-2010, 10:05 PM   #56
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Discouragement today. Got insurance on the bike and went to take it out to Fuzzy's, our local biker dive, about three miles away from home. The Savage started right up but still was backfiring. I thought it would settle down once it was warmed up like before so I took it for a short ride around the neighborhood. Unfortunately, this time the backfiring never stopped, and the bike would not rev up smoothly. It would surge up then cough and slow. I had to stay in the middle of the fristion zone the whole time. Never got past second gear. It quit completely on me a mile or so from the house, but eventually I got it to start again and I rode it pop, pop, popping all the way there. I parked it in the garage and took my CB up to Fuzzy's instead.

The backfiring is in the exhaust, not back through the carb. I think fuel is being drawn into the combustion chamber and not getting fired and then going out the exhaust only to be ignited in the pipe. The backfiring, by the way, does not just happen on deceleration but pretty much all the time. I checked the coil again while it was still warm and it still checked out perfectly. I guess the cam chain could have jumped and messed up the timing, but that right now is a wild guess. These bikes do have a poor chain tensioner system so a check might be in order. Funny, though, that the bike ran good the other day after the initial same symptoms.

One bright note was that the sealant on the outside of the plug did seem to reduce the oil leak onto the exhaust.

Back to the ole drawing board, I guess.

Mike, not so cheerful tonight
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:23 PM   #57
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Drats! Sorry to hear of the problems.

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Old 08-20-2010, 09:40 PM   #58
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I'm still working on mine too. Running well, but I took it out on the highway and the oil leak - while not gushing - was heavy enough to be worrisome. Much worse than I remembered it being before I put it in storage. I've almost got the head cover off. When I do, I'm going to try replacing that plug that the savage forum says is a problem for everyone. Not sure if that's the problem though, because the oil is actually coming out the back side on the right side, near where the carb connects. If I can't see an obvious problem, I'll try replacing that plug with the newer version and sealing it up well.
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Old 08-21-2010, 10:29 AM   #59
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Good luck and report back. With pics if possible!

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 08-21-2010, 02:56 PM   #60
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Even worse news today, not about the bike.

My friend, Vince, owner of BABs Motorcycle Shop, was hit yesterday while riding. This is the guy who has always been willing to help me with all my old bikes' problems and has gone out of his way for me. I went to pick up a clutch cable I had ordered through him for the Savage and found his place closed. I came home and did some chores around here then called his number, hoping by then that he had gotten to the shop. I got his wife, which surprised me. She told me Vince was "T-boned" by a car and it looks like they are going to have to take his leg(s).

I think he goes by Vince, but his entire name is different, maybe he uses his middle name, I dunno, but not many wrecks here in Lake Wales, let alone bike accidents, and the paper is reporting that an elderly man pulled out of a bank and ran right into a biker (Henry Moore) as he rode along. Must be Vince.

Waiting to hear more details. My brother-in-law is a Lake Wales cop and worked the accident I am told.

Mike

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Old 08-21-2010, 03:15 PM   #61
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Just found out, Henry Moore is Vince. My b-i-l worked the wrech and said the Explorer was on top of the bike when he got there. The SUV driver was ticketed.

Sigh
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Old 08-21-2010, 07:05 PM   #62
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That is TERRIBLE news Mike!

Keep us posted.

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Old 08-22-2010, 05:54 PM   #63
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Err. I wanted to post questions with photos of my bike, but this thing says I need 15 posts, and I only have 8 (now 9). Guess, I'll have to find something else to comment on and then come back.
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Old 08-22-2010, 06:24 PM   #64
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Here's my bike:


This is where the oil is leaking from:



It looks pretty clean in that photo because I cleaned it off with engine cleaner so I could better see how fast the oil was leaking. If I took it out for a ride, I could see oil coming out and starting to run into the cooling fins within 2 or 3 miles.

Here's the bike without the headcover:



This is what an ignoramus I am concerning motorcycles: When I took the head cover off, I could see quite a bit of oil in all the three places I've indicated with arrows, but I assume that that is normal. Oil should be splashing around in there, shouldn't it? For instance, that troublesome plug, which creates a little dish, was about half full with oil, but I don't know if that's a problem or not.

Anyway, I was hoping that I'd be able to see an obvious problem after taking the head cover off, but I don't think I do. I was assuming that that plug was the problem, but it seems fairly snug to me. It's not askew or anything. I can't really move it around with my hand, although I realize that it could still be leaking despite that. Is there any way I can check for leaks at this point? I mean, I can't run the engine now.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I think at this point, although the plug seems secure to me, I'll replace it anyway, hoping that that was causing the problem. Is there any other likely suspect that I should replace now, seeing as how the head cover is off?

Also, can anyone (LWrider?), confirm that it's normal to see oil where those valve springs are? Sorry to be such a rookie.

PS: By the way, hope your friend comes out of it OK. Losing the legs ... wow, that would be awful.

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Old 08-22-2010, 07:04 PM   #65
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Yes, Allerretour, there should be oil there. That head looks in pretty good shape. Thanks for the pciture. Don't forget which bolt goes where and all the rubber bits and a new shaft end seal before you button it back up. There is a pretty good step by step at Savage Forum on hwo to do that.

Not sure about your leak. Looks to be above the head seam and below the head cover seam, but it could be running down from above. I'll have to look ta my bike tomorrow and see what is there exactly.

About my friend--better news maybe. I talked to my b-i-l who worked the accident, he used to be an EMT before he became a cop. He said he thought Vince would lose his foot, but was surprised to hear that he might lose his legs. He said they did not look that messed up to him. I am hoping his wife was just overcome with everything that was happening and maybe the outcome will be better than her prediction.
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Old 08-24-2010, 02:34 PM   #66
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Better news about my firend. He has lost his left foot and will most likely lose that leg to the knee, but the other leg and foot are OK.

I have put the Savage on the back burner for now and paid some long overdue atention to my CB350, doing the valves, timing, and carbs. Runs beautifully now.

Netx up for the thumper is a check/adjustment of the vales and a new exhaust gasket. Then I'll give it another try and see ho it goes.

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 08-24-2010, 02:52 PM   #67
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Sorry to hear about your friend. That has to be rough to lose a leg!!
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Old 08-24-2010, 05:04 PM   #68
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Quote:
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Don't forget which bolt goes where and all the rubber bits and a new shaft end seal before you button it back up.
Hello again LWRider. Should have read your message closer, specifically the part about replacing the shaft end seal. This is part number 43 in your engine diagram above, correct? I was cleaning off the engine head and I noticed that some of the rubber had come off the shaft end seal and was stuck on the head cover. I really had to scrape to get it off, and now the shaft end seal part is a little rough. I was wondering to myself if the silicone seal would seal it up sufficiently, but I gather from your post that you think this should just be replaced. Should have done that when I ordered the new plug; I'll now have to pay shipping twice.
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Old 08-24-2010, 06:09 PM   #69
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Yes, number 43. Do you not have a Suzuki dealer close to you? Mine does not charge me any shipping.

I, in fact, am just going to order all new rubber/seals, etc. when I do mine (along with the order will be a new exhaust gasket also).

I would doubt that piece is very expensive. Better safe than sorry, at least that's how I'd approach it. You don't want to have to pull it all apart for that little seal. By the way, make sure you use sealer on that plug, the shop manual doesn't say anything about it, which is why they often leak. The consensus is to use sealer and not be sorry later. Have you looked at the procedure over at Suzuki Forums?

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 08-25-2010, 04:46 PM   #70
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My cousin gave me an idea, which I will check before checking the valves. He said to check the decompression lever. If it is not working proberly it could certainly cause my symptoms, which makes sense. It ought to be easy enough to check that. I will unplug the wires on the decomp solenoid and start the bike without it and report back here with the results. I did have a bad timer on the decomp system and bought an ebay replacement, but I suppose that could be bad or the lever throw is not adjusted properly. First thing is to try without it at all and if it runs well, then I will try and adjust it. If possible I do want to keep the decomp system as it will be much easier on my battery and starting. It probably won't be until next week as I leave for South Bend/Niles tomorrow for a few days.

Cheers and ya'll have a great weekend.

Mike, tired of the rain in Florida
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:10 PM   #71
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Mike, is there an easy way to make the decompression work off of a cable like dirt bikes?

Eric
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Old 08-26-2010, 10:50 AM   #72
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Hey, Eric! That's what I am trying to figure out. I disconnected the cable last night and fired the bike up. It did run much better. Unfortunately I let it die before it was all the way warmed up and I could not get it started again. Just turning the bike over a couple times without the compression released wore the battery down. It is recharged now.

I would like to see how those dirt bikes are set up. Do you have any pictures?

The savage has a simple lever mounted on top the the head on the left side, pretty much like a spring-returned throttle lever. It turns a cam and holds the exhaust valves open. It sounds like it is critical that the throw is just right (3-5mm). I am thinking maybe a trigger-activated cable of some sort mounted somewhere. It has to be easy to do while holding the clutch in. The decomp only lasts a second or so.

Here's what the manual says about the decomp system:

"The automatic decompression control system automatically operates a
solenoid that actuates the decompression lever. The decompression lever
opens the exhaust valves a small amount in order to relieve compression
during the starting cycle. This makes it easier for the starter to turn the
engine over initially.

With the ignition switch ON, the clutch lever pulled in and starter button
pressed in, the circuit from the battery is completed and 12 volts are
applied to the number 2 terminal of the control unit. When the 12 volts
reach the Timer I, it is activated allowing the 12 volts to reach the No. 3
terminal of the control unit. At this time, the control unit activates the
decompression solenoid which operates the decompression lever. About 0.2
seconds after the starter button is pressed, the Timer II is activated and
12 volts reach the No. 4 terminal on the control unit. At this time, the
starter solenoid is energized and the starter motor starts to turn. The
operation of the Timer I is 0.7 seconds and the Timer II shuts off the
solenoid 0.5 seconds afer starter motor starts turning. This allows the
decompression lever to return to its normal position."

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 08-27-2010, 01:07 AM   #73
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*** Dp
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Old 08-27-2010, 01:08 AM   #74
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Mike, send me a PM to remind me and I will take some pic's from several of them including one or two of my Suzuki dirt bikes this weekend.

Eric
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Old 09-03-2010, 01:20 PM   #75
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Haven't posted for a bit, but here's where I am now.

Eric (97Fire) suggested a manual realease for the decompression lever, which I may do. Seems lots of dirt bikes have them and they look adaptable. But first, I went out to check the lever and cable to see if it returns properly.

It is not a positive snap-back, so that might be the crux of the problem--possibly the decomp keeps decomping sometimes. So, I pulled the tank to take a closer look and to pull the cable to see if it runs free. Now that I am more familiar with this bike, I saw that parts of the decomp are not even there. First, the decomp solenoid is being held on by only one of the two bolts, so I will fix that. Also, there is a kind of "bridle" that holds the cable at the solenoid end and it is completely missing from my bike. Also, the cable itself, although seemingly free, is frayed pretty badly and has a kind of kink in its casing.

So, I am ordering another decomp solenoid from ebay today (many available)along with cable and "bridle." I can pick up a new mounting bolt locally. Once I get that stuff I will let you know how it goes, but from my experience with starting the bike without the cable connected, I think it will solve the problem (fingers crossed).

Another good thing resulting from removing the tank was getting a good look at the top engine mount. There are supposed to be two bolts at the frame and one at the engine, but mine only had one frame bolt, leaving the motor "unmounted" at the top and the brackets dangling. I can pick up new bolts for that locally, too. I knew there was an issue up here, but I thought the mounting bolts were broken off in the holes; luckily that is not the case and I won't have to "eazyout" anything, just plug in new bolts.

By the way, my friend ended up having only one leg taken and only to the knee. Bad, but much better than if he had lost both. He had skull and facial fractures, but nothing life-threatening on that count, which also is lucky because he was not wearing a helmet.

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 09-03-2010, 03:02 PM   #76
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Tell your friend, if it was his left leg that was amputated, I will have my wife take pics and get a verbal synopsis of a bike one of her clients rides.

He has a prosthetic leg from the knee down on the left side and had his shifter modified. He has two bikes and rides constantly.

He said fake toes weren't going to keep him off of two wheels
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Old 09-03-2010, 03:32 PM   #77
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Thanks, alalien. It was his left leg from below the knee. It was caught between the SUV and his bike.

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:42 PM   #78
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Still rough, but you're right that one leg is better than two. Hope he wasn't a runner. That would be the biggest problem for me, but you can always do something. I think if it's below the knee you could bike (bicycle), for example, pretty well.

Another dumb question for you, lwrider (or any other good soul). I took the engine head off, replaced that troublesome plug, and re-did the silicon sealer on the head, in order to stop my oil leak. First results are promising in that it doesn't appear to be leaking like before, although I've only been able to ride it a few miles. Unfortunately, it has a harder time starting than before I did the repair, occasionally dies at idle, and runs rougher on the road, especially at low rpms. Feels like it's not getting enough gas; jerky like when the primary tank is running out and you have to switch to reserve. I assume that it's something directly related to fuel flow, like my petcock issue from before, or a pinched line somewhere, BUT ... I had one question for you about the "automatic decompression cable". I don't even know what this does, but it's the only place where I had some uncertainty when replacing the head cover. It's the thing that has two bolts holding it onto a bracket, on the front left side of the engine. You have to take it off when removing the head cover, and you have to move the adjusting screws to do it, and I really had no idea where they were originally when I reassembled it, so I put it in the middle somewhere. Do you know what the "automatic decompression cable" does and could it have something to do with my hard starts and stalling? If so, any idea how to adjust it? Thanks.
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Old 09-05-2010, 08:55 AM   #79
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The decompression lever operates a cam that holds the exhaust valves open a bit to relieve compression pressure when starting. If you look under the front valve cover you can see the working end of it on the right.

The lever is operated by a solenoid which pulls a cable which pulls the lever. The solenoid is operated by a small electronic module, which is basically a timer which regulates the starting cycle, opening the exhaust valves for a short moment, forwarding the signal to the starter, then closing the exhaust valves.

The solenoid is round and mounts on the right side near the coil under the tank. The controller has a rubber mount and is supposed to sit between in the "crotch" where the top frame separates under the tank and just in front of the carb.

Clymers has the procedure for testing the "timer" and also how to adjust the lever by adjusting the throw on the solenoid (3-5 mm if I recall correctly). You can measure this by lifting the rubber cap on the right side of the solenoid and measuring how far the rod moves when the lever is activated when the engine is at top dead center. You adjust the cable at the lever to get this set right. Makesure your cable works smoothly and the lever has sufficient spring tension to return it.
My solenoid is missing the "bails" or "bridle" or bracket or whatever you want to call it that holds the solenoid end of the cable, making mine not work correctly when activated.

Because this holds the exhaust open, if it fails or opens too far, or at the wrong time, stuff can go wrong. If it fails to work at all the motor will be harder to turn over resulting in a dead battery if you have to crank it more than once or twice. If the lever does not return to closed for some reason, then the motor will run erratically and backfire as the fuel gets passed right through the cylinder and into the pipe (what I think is happening in my case).

That's a quick, off-my-head explanation, anyway.

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 09-05-2010, 12:26 PM   #80
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Thanks for your help. I have that Clymer manual. I looked for an explanation on how to adjust that cable in the "engine" section, but now I see that it is in the "maintenance" section. Looks more complicated than I thought it would be, but I'll give it a try.

Thanks again.
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