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Old 06-22-2010, 12:10 PM   #1
LWRider
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Default 1986 Suzuki LS650 Savage Repair/Restore

I thought I might as well start a new thread as an "Official Get 'er Running" thread, even though I posted about Hylomar regarding this bike earlier. As I go through things and get everything sorted out I will post it here, just in case there are some other LS650 thumper owners out there who may benefit from the torture I am sure I am about to go through. First, let me say that when working on this bike it is useful to be an octopus with opposable thumbs, as all the clearances are tight and to wiggle stuff in and out often requires one to hold a dozen parts just so.

So far--I pulled the carb and did a thorough cleaning, pulling all jets, clearing their tiny holes with fishing line, putting in a new float valve o-ring and reinstalling the carb. While I was ordering a couple new o-rings for the carb (one spare; always buy one spare) I also ordered tanks mounts which were missing from this bike. Don't expect Suzuki (at least our local dealer didn't) to have anything in stock; you'll wait a week to get your stuff. I am pretty confident that this carb will now function properly as I have had much experience with other CV carbs (see the thread titled "So Close, but Yet So Far" about my travails getting my 42 year old CB350 to run).

I also put in a new air filter (there was none on the bike when I picked it up) changed the oil and installed a new oil filter. I also went out a bought a 18mm spark plug socket (don't bother trying a deep 18mm socket; it won't work) and installed a new plug, properly gapped. Before putting in the plug I put a teaspoon or so of oil in to soak down past the rings as this bike has sat since 2008 and there was zero oil in the top end.

I got two tanks with the bike and chose the less dented and less rusted one which I cleaned with muriatic acid, flushed out with water and immediately followed by denatured alcohol. It is now all clean with bare gray metal inside. I may reline it, but later once the thing has proven to me it can run.

I also discovered the forks were on backward with the rotor on the wrong side, so I put them right.

First big challenge was the petcock. By the way, Suzuki does not sell any parts for this; they require you to buy an entire petcock for about $70. It did not look bad inside but I found a rebuild kit made for other bikes but which fits this one perfectly (an o-ring is included which goes unused for this bike). The part came from Z1 Enterprises and its part number KL18-4344 "Petcock Repair Kit Suzuki". That renewed the inside of the petcock, now to mount it. As I related in the Hylomar thread; I remounted the petcock on the cleaned tank and had bad fuel leaks. I tried anaerobic sealant, which failed. I next tried Hylomar, a highly touted racing sealant, but the leak was still there. I flattened the mating surface with a file, followed by fine sandpaper, where the petcock flange's lozenge-shaped "o-ring" seated; but it still leaked. I once again removed the petcock and this time I saw the tiny pin-holes in the bottom to side flange, right next to the petcock base, which is what fooled me into thinking the petcock was the culprit. A bit of JB Weld cured that leak and a fine film of Hylomar on the petcock base, the mating surface of the tank, and on the bolt threads finally did the job of stopping the leak(s).

Next up was mounting the tank. The tank, just like the carb, has almost no wiggle room for mounting and removal and reinstallation is difficult and you must wiggle and hold your tongue just so to get things to fit on this bike. The space is so much more close around stuff on this bike compared to my CB350, where removing a carb takes me about two minutes (1/2 hour for my first attempt on the LS650). Anyway, I plugged in the instrument lights and put on the speedo cable and remounted the tank. Then hooked up the vacuum and fuel line from the petcock. Next, a new battery went in. Switch on, and the headlight works anyway, and the front turn signals come on but don't blink. I even have a working neutral light.

I hit the start button and whirrrr! the starter turned over. I left the bike for the rest of the day planning to try a real engine start after work, with fuel in the tank. Unfortunately, the whirr was only the starter; the engine was not turning over, as my brother and I discovered when we went to start it.

I pulled the starter and could turn the gear inside the engine through the hole with my finger. I drained the oil and started to pull the left side engine cover. Easy enough, as it has actuall hex head bolts holding it on, instead of those d*mn phillips heads like my CB. Uh oh; one is hidden on the bottom side behind the shifter/footpeg bracket, which is in turn held on with long big bolts that also serve as engine mounts that run across the whole width of the bike, terminating on the right side footpeg bracket. Finally, I removed the shift linkage and was able to get an 8mm wrench in from the front to this bolt and a tiny turn by tiny turn I got the final bolt out. The cover was loose, but the spring loaded kickstand switch is sticking out and keeping me from pulling it off. I can't hold in the switch, take weight off the bracket and pull the cover off by myself. So, this is where I am at; waiting for another helper to hold the bike and switch in, so I can pull the cover off and hopefully see what is going on inside, keeping the starter from engaging the motor. It is not clear from the manual or pictures how exactly this thing clicks in and out. Hopefully, seeing the gearing myself will shed light on this problem. There must be a mechanism that engages and releases the starter, as it cannot be spinning all the time with the motor, but it is a mystery to me--so far.

That's where I am at right now. Once the motor is working, there are myriad little things electrical to work on and multiple missing parts. Obvious future needs are left rear turn signal; front right turn signal as this one, although working, is flapping loosely in its mount; The neatral swith wire is broken and dangling under the bike--new switch I am sure required; mounts for the driver seat are missing; and a front left driver's footpeg is missing. Good thing I got the bike for free.

Cheers,

Mike

The Savage upon arrival in my garage after pickup in Dothan, AL.
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Old 06-22-2010, 03:27 PM   #2
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OK; I finally got the left hand engine case off. It was a juggling act doing it myself. a zip tie worked to hold back that pesky kickstand switch and balancing the bike witht he wieght off the stand made the whole assembly droop enough for me to wrangle the cover off. Here is what I have. All looks in really good shape. The driven gear is supposed to only one way. Guess what? Mine goes both ways. The manual says that the clutch needs to be replaced. This is hidden underneath the rotor, which I am told requires a special tool--of course. I took out the allen head screws. Then I tried just loosening the middle nut, but to no avail. I was afraid I was going to damage something doing that. Guess I'll check ebay for that clutch.

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Old 06-22-2010, 06:14 PM   #3
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Grrrrrrrr! I hate the cursed devils who think they have to put every nut and bolt on a motor as tight as they possibly can! I had to use a 3/4" pipe on my ratchet in an attempt to break that rotor bolt loose and broke the bloody extension in two. What the bloody h*ll!? I'm done for the day. Sprayed it with PB Blaster, and I'll see if I can do anything with it tomorrow.
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Old 06-23-2010, 07:11 PM   #4
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Well, today dawned and I tried my hand at the bolt again. This time I had my 1/2" breaker bar and a 17mm 1/2" drive socket instead of a wimpy 3/8" drive one. No luck again.

I went to my local bike shop and talk to the owner. Thought he might be willing to get it off with his impact tools if I loaded the bike on the trailer and brought it to him on Satruday. Instead, he was kind enough to offer to lend me his very powerful impact wrench along with a 17mm impact socket. I brought it home, wheeled the bike out to my woodshop where my big compressor lives, made sure it was on 125 psi, and used the impact wrench on the bolt--it did not budge. I even hit it a couple times in the opposite direction, just in case I was wrong (but Vince, the shop owner, told me it was right handed) and in case it would just break it loose. It got me nowhere and I just returned from returning the tool to him. He said the only other thing is that someone must have put red thread-locker on the bolt. He said, next he would try heat. Too late to mess with it tonight, I'll report back what results I have.

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 06-23-2010, 08:41 PM   #5
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Hello LWRider,

I'm trying to get a Savage (89) running too, which has been sitting in storage for a long time (10+ years). I have a quick question for you. I'm having a problem with the fuel delivery, probably with the carb, but something you wrote above made me think of another possibility. You say that you replaced the petcock. I have neither cleaned nor replaced it, because I didn't think it was necessary. Can I ask you, when you turn the petcock to on, do you get a strong flow of fuel out of it, or a trickle? I don't know how to quantify it, but I get what I'd qualify as a trickle or at best a low volume stream. I'd never really checked what it was like when the motorcycle was running well, so I'm not sure what is normal. I don't think there's a filter in there to replace, but maybe it's gunked up anyway.
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Old 06-24-2010, 08:21 AM   #6
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Hi allerretour,

This bike has a different petcock than the one I am use to on my CB350. The CB's is a simple gravity petcock and you turn it on or to reserve and fuel flows out freely and turns completely off on "OFF". The Savage petcock uses vacuum from the carb to pull fuel through. On "ON" or "RESERVE" you should get nothing, on "PRIME" it should flow out freely. "PRIME" is for filling the tank bowl after they have been drained; "ON" is for running the bike and there is a vacuum tube running up from the right side of the carb to the petcock that opens a diaphram inside it and lets the fuel flow. If yours is only trickling on "PRIME" then there is a problem. Inside the tank the petcock has a plastic pickup with a very fine screen. With it on "ON" (or reserve) you should not have fuel coming out--another sign of a problem, probably the diaphram. It could be that is clogged up with debris from the tank. Another thing that can go wrong with these is the diaphram, but luckily if yours is bad you can get the kit I described in the first post.

Regarding the kit: it does not come with the diaphram spring, so you gotta hope yours is ok, it comes with a largish o-ring which is not used, and it does not come with the lozenge-shaped base o-ring for the petcock. Here's a link to the petcock repair kit: http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1507

Cheers,

Mike

Last edited by LWRider; 06-24-2010 at 08:23 AM..
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Old 06-24-2010, 01:13 PM   #7
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Err. I'm annoyed now.

First, let me know if you don't want me to muck up your thread with my problems. It didn't seem like you were really asking for help on anything and that this was more of a general "get your Savage running" thread, but if you want, I can start another one. I'm clearly way behind you in terms of cycle repair knowledge. This is my first attempt.

Anyway, fuel was just trickling out of the petcock when it was on prime, so I took it off to see if I could clean anything. If actually looked pretty clean though. I tried spraying some carb cleaner on that long filter, thinking it might have some barely visible gunk on the screens. I also opened up the vacuum hose side of the petcock, but that looked pretty clean, so I just tried to close it up like before, but that gasket in there is pretty delicate. I put the petcock back on the tank and the tank on the bike, but unfortunately, now there is NO fuel coming from it - not even a trickle - even when it's on prime. I wonder if I should completely replace the petcock??

Another silly question. I took the carburetor off to clean it as best I could (I couldn't do it completely because I can't open it up; the screws on the top of the carb absolutely will not budge). Anyway, when I put it back, I noticed that there are two hoses coming out of upper part of the carb, one on each side, which head towards the back of the bike, but which don't seem to have anything to attach to. I don't remember detaching them from anything when I removed the carb either. Do you know which ones I'm talking about? Where do they go on your bike?

Thanks.
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Old 06-24-2010, 06:34 PM   #8
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Hi, I too am wrestling with a Suzuki. But to answer your question about the lines. There should be a larger line (fuel) which goes to your fuel spout on the petcock and should attach to the closest nipple on the carbs to #1 or in between #1 and #2. Now being is I don't know whether its a Four cylinder or not I'm not sure the location. The second is should be smaller (vacuum). That attaches to the smaller nipple of the petcock and then run to the carb body. Then there should be the two float vents(if its a four cylinder). Those only attach to the carbs. They are routed back through the seat to the rear. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-24-2010, 06:36 PM   #9
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Sorry, should've read better. Those WOULD be your float vents. They run up and down through the rear under your seat. They have to be vented down and to the rear.
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Old 06-24-2010, 07:29 PM   #10
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Hi MJremington,

The Savage is a one-cylinder.

I kind of figured that those tubes didn't go anywhere, because I'm sure I would have remembered disconnecting them. Good to have confirmation though. I had them running under the seat, just because that's sort of where they wanted to go.

Which I could figure out why no fuel drains out of the petcock.
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Old 06-25-2010, 12:29 AM   #11
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Glad to hear. And least now I know its a one cylinder. I took my carb set off to have em cleaned and kits put in. When I took em off there were four hoses. Got em back and there were only 3. He forgot the vacuum hose! So he had to tap the carb body to put it in. He actually argued with me on that fact til he realized he was wrong. Shops had my bike for 54 days now. So best of luck to you.
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:02 AM   #12
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Ya'll add whatever you want about Savages. I just figured if I put down stuff I come across as I worked on mine, it might help someone else with one. So, we can all help each other, or at least try.

On my Savage the two vents were routed in an arc up over the carb and forward into the frame tube under the tank. That doesn't mean that's correct, just means that is the way my bike was when picked up (one was plugged by a screw--obviously worng).

Those vent hose hook to the hose barbs that look like little outriggers pointing up and back on each side of the carb. The vent for the petcock is on the right and forward, and the fuel line is obviously bigger and on the left.

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 06-27-2010, 06:01 PM   #13
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Well, I'm still not getting any gas out of my petcock,so I think I'm going to look for a used one on eBay. At least I understand a little better how it works now. There's a piston that sits up against a rubber ring inside the petcock creating a seal. When the engine is running, it creates a vacuum and sucks the piston away from the ring, allowing the gas to flow. When the engine isn't running, you turn the petcock to prime and there's a little metal rod that manually pushes the piston away from the rubber ring, once again allowing gas to flow. Unfortunately, the little metal rod in mine doesn't extend far enough out to push the piston away from the rubber ring, so it's still blocked. Not sure why that would happen, but I don't see a way to fix it. I suppose I could take that rubber ring away completely, which would allow it to always flow, but I suppose the system is there for safety reasons, so I don't think I'll do that. Hopefully there's a good used one on eBay.

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Old 06-28-2010, 02:11 PM   #14
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You could take the diaphram out but fuel would always flow that way. If your float valve would fail your carb would fill with fuel and it would possibly flow into the cylinder, and once there run down inside past the rings and remove all the oil in the cylinder walls and contaminate your oil in the sump with gas. I have a bike with a simple gravity petcock, but above is the reason why I always turn the fuel off when putting the bike away. Also, with a shut off, removing the tank is much less messy.
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Old 06-29-2010, 05:51 PM   #15
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Well, I just loaded the Savage onto the trailer. I cannot hold that hex shaft of the rotor securely with my big crescennt wrench while I try to turn the rotor bolt, so that is going nowhere. The manual calls for an offset 36mm wrench to hold the shaft, which of course, I do not have and cheapest I have found one is over $50. Even once that bolt is out I need to pull the rotor, which calls for another special Suzuki tool costing above $70. I chatted with my bike mechanic cousin and he gave me an idea for making a special puller, but finding what I need to do that and then welding it up is not going to be real cheap or easy either. Finding a really big metric nut that will fit the shaft, welding a tube to it, and then welding a center nut in which to thread the puller bolt will not be easy--I admire the ingenuity, but a lot of work for one time use. I called the dealer here and for between $20 and $40 they will pull my rotor for me. So off the bike goes to the shop tomorrow.

Anyway, getting the bike back on the trailer was the perfect chance to get a good "Before" shot of the bike and the various pieces that came with it. This is much better than the one above.



Cheers,

Mike
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:28 AM   #16
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Just got back from the dealer. For $42.27 and an hour wait I got the bike back with the rotor pulled. That's less than the cost of a 36mm offset wrench alone required to do the job. Now to check the starter clutch and either fix or look for a replacement.

Cheers,

Mike, making progress
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:36 AM   #17
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I think you'll like that bike, if you ever get it running. I bought mine used in '90. I didn't have a motorcycle license yet and, therefore, couldn't even take it on a test drive, so I was looking for the cleanest, used motorcyle I could find. I found my Savage with less than 2K miles and grabbed it. I eventually put 35K miles on it, without a problem. Just replaced brake pads, oil, spark plug, etc. It's mostly good for rolling around on backroads at 50 mph, but I did take it back and forth between SF and LA multiple times. It's not what I'd choose if I was buying new today, but I've grown attached to mine. It's a'89, but 13 of those 21 years were just sitting in a garage, so it still looks pretty good. Hope I can get it running again.

Now waiting for a used petcock bought on eBay.

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Old 07-01-2010, 09:12 AM   #18
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Well, I am now trying to knock the shaft key out, but have hopes it will be out today. But looking at the starter clutch, it is obvious it is shot. The mn aual says you should eb able to turn the gear one direction only but mine will not turn either. Funny thing; I can find virtually anything for this bike on ebay, but as of yet I have not seen one person offering a starter clutch. $155 is the cheapest new one I've found. Anyone know a salvage yard that specializes in these thumpers?

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 07-01-2010, 10:12 AM   #19
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I did get the key out and slid the starter clutch assembly off the shaft. I sacrificed one of my beater chisels from the woodshop to knock the key out. The starter clutch is shot. Now to find a replacement.



Cheers,

Mike, back to the grind--literally
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Old 07-02-2010, 10:31 AM   #20
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Looking great man. She look nice and clean inside, should run pretty easily once you get the starter clutch fixed.
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Old 07-13-2010, 04:20 PM   #21
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I'm back to report that I bought a new Suzuki starter clutch. I installed it, torqued everything up and reassembled. I refilled the oil, reinstalled the tank, and made sure I had some gas in it. This time I even installed a new gasket; whoever had put this together before was apparently to cheap to buy one and used some kind of sealant instead (At least it did not leak; I'll give 'em that.). I hit the starter button.

Once again, the starter spins but the crankshaft does not. This one has got me puzzled. I do not regret replacing the old starter clutch as it was unquestionably bad, but now the bike is acting exactly the same as before. As you can see in the picture above, the gears are not torn up at all, no missing teeth, nothing. I can't figure out why the starter doesn't turn the bike over.

The output shaft of the starter does have some wear, but not so much that it would not engage the gears, at least I don't think so. Again, you can see in the picture the gears are meshed.

Cheers,

Mike, scratching his head
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Old 07-13-2010, 04:39 PM   #22
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Here is a picture of the rotation of the gears starting at the starter.



I just had a terrible thought: when I installed the new clutch, it came together as an assembly--the driven gear already inside the clutch. I installed it as it came to me, but halfway on the drive gear parted from the clutch. I had to take the parts off and put them together again before putting them on the shaft. I wonder if the clutch is reversible. If so, when the starter turned everything it would turn the clutch the direction that turns free in relation to the driven gear. Yikes! Taking this thing apart was a bear. I hate to think I may have to redo it. Anyone know if it is possible for that clutch ring to go on either way?

I guess I could check it by opening the cover back up and spinning the driven gear with my finger. If should only go in one direction and from that I should be able to tell if it is reversed or not before going through the h*ll of pulling the rotor again.

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Old 07-13-2010, 04:49 PM   #23
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Weird!


Does the new starte clutch behave as specified in the manual?

-Brendan
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Old 07-13-2010, 04:58 PM   #24
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Yes, it does. But the manual only says it should turn free in one direction and not the other, which it does; but the manual does not say which direction that is. I think I got this one on the same way it came in the box, but that does not mean it is correct. I took the old clutch off the old driven gear a minute ago and there are two different looking "sides" but it looks like it could slip onto the driven gear either way. I cannot tell by looking at it as it is all hidden by the rotor. Also, I don't know if I can count on it being right on the original one. It loooks like someone tried a bunch of stuff and they could have mucked it up too.

I have yet to turn this bike over so I am judging from the direction the rotor bolt goes on (assumed against the rotation) that it is counter-clockwise. If so, I should be able to test the direction of the driven gear before pulling everything off the shaft. I don't know if I want to be right or wrong on this one! If I put it on backwards, it will be back to Suuzki to pull the rotor and reinstall. If I did it right, I still have a very weird problem.
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Old 07-13-2010, 05:09 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LWRider View Post
Yes, it does. But the manual only says it should turn free in one direction and not the other, which it does; but the manual does not say which direction that is. I think I got this one on the same way it came in the box, but that does not mean it is correct. I took the old clutch off the old driven gear a minute ago and there are two different looking "sides" but it looks like it could slip onto the driven gear either way. I cannot tell by looking at it as it is all hidden by the rotor. Also, I don't know if I can count on it being right on the original one. It loooks like someone tried a bunch of stuff and they could have mucked it up too.

I have yet to turn this bike over so I am judging from the direction the rotor bolt goes on (assumed against the rotation) that it is counter-clockwise. If so, I should be able to test the direction of the driven gear before pulling everything off the shaft. I don't know if I want to be right or wrong on this one! If I put it on backwards, it will be back to Suuzki to pull the rotor and reinstall. If I did it right, I still have a very weird problem.
If I am reading everything correctly, you should be able to turn the starter clutch clockwise but not counterclockwise.... Let us know how it works out man.

-Brendan
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Old 07-14-2010, 11:17 AM   #26
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I am glad I did not tear right into that. Last night it occurred to me that I can remove the starter and test the direction of spin before taking it apart and draining the oil once again. I am going to check today and I'll report back.

Also, I noticed the decompression solenoid (or controller) is not working. I assume the bike will be harder to turn over, but still ought to. Am I right? Anyone know? I just want to fire this motor up to be sure it is fundamentally working, then go back and piece by piece address the other issues, like the decomp, rear turn lights, etc.

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 07-14-2010, 12:52 PM   #27
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OK Looks like I did get that starter clutch on backwards. I pulled the starter and with my finger turned the gear it engages. I can turn it freely counter-clockwise and not at all clock-wise. To turn the engine over it should resist turning counter-clockwise and turn freely clock-wise so the engine once started can spin without constantly spinning the starter with it.

Oh well, live and learn. It did not even occur to me to check the starter clutch direction when I put it on.

Cheers,

Mike, the knucklehead
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Old 07-17-2010, 10:13 PM   #28
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It's alive! It's ALIVE!!!!



I, indeed, had the starter clutch backwards. I reinstalled it the correct way and hit the starter button, and lo and behold, the engine turned over. It took a while, some battery recharging, and some little blips on the throttle with the choke all the way out, but eventually the beast roared to life! And, Man, is it loud! Going to have to joint the muffler to the exhaust properly.

So, now that I know it CAN run, I have to tackle this mess:



A lot of, um, "customizing" has gone on here. Saftey interlocks have been by passed, etc. The decomp stuff does not work. Need a new rear turn signal . . .

But, I will take solace in the sound of that motor roaring into life.

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 07-17-2010, 11:47 PM   #29
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I see some masking tape as well



Congrats man!


Nice to hear another bike is alive due to the dedication of a wrencher.
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Old 07-21-2010, 09:36 AM   #30
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I pulled the "muffler" and took a look. The baffles had been screwed up and all that was holding it to the head pipe was a wimpy hose clamp. I took the old muffler down with me to see my local bike guy and see what he thought. He took me out back and showed me a pile of shiny mufflers that people had left with him when they had him put aftermarket stuff on. We pulled a few out and found one (Harley) that looked like it would work. Price--nothing!

I took it home and cut the front pipe shorter, behind the crossover connector, and it slipped on like a glove. Just need to get a foot or so of heat wrap (for a gasket) and a proper clamp and I can put it on. The mount to the bike's hanger looks like ti will be easy to rig out of some flat bar stock. I also received the rear pipe shield from ebay yesterday and it will hide any ugliness at the connection.

While there at B.A.B.'s, he told me he had some parts for me I had ordered. I had forgotten all about them. He had a break in and his computer was stolen so he had lost my number to call me the parts were in. So, now I have part for the missing front brake switch and a clamp/mirror perch for the right side controls. I ordered an aftermarket rear left turn signal, a front right signal (mine is boogered up), the front left peg (they do not seem to exist in used-parts-world for some reason) and a new clutch cable.

In the meantime, I am going to check the decompression stuff and see which part is bad. I'll either buy a used part and repair or I may rig a manual release soemwhere that I can pull when I start the bike (which might be a cool element if I rat this bike, which I am strongly considering).

Once these final parts are here, I will have enough to put the thing on the road and see what it will do. I'll post back here as things progress.

Cheers,

Mike, getting closer
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Old 07-21-2010, 10:06 AM   #31
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Thought I'd pass this along for those with petcock problems. I have read that this petcock will work on the Savage:
Raptor part no. 5LP-24500-01-00
2003 Yamaha Raptor 660 YFM660R

And where you can get one:
http://www.ronayers.com/browseparts....00&adv=5&kw...

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 07-22-2010, 01:54 PM   #32
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I was out checking the fit of the new muffler (for a H-D FXS1450, I think Softtail Shovelhead?). I thought I was going to have to manufacture a mount of some sort to attach this to the Savage's rear muffler support. I found out that one of the mounting bolt holes on the H-D muffler aligns with one of the Savage's mounting holes on the muffler bracket, so all I had to do was find a bolt that fit, cut it to length, add a couple washers to spane the big Savage hole and the thing mounts directly!

I may cut some heavy fiberglass cloth in a short strip to act as a buffer/cushion between the muffler and the bracket. I have not been able to find a scrap of exhaust wrap anywhere here, so I cannot finish up the installation quite yet. You'd think many shops would have short cutoffs, but no luck here. I will take a picture of the whole rig once I get it all tightened up.

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 07-26-2010, 12:07 PM   #33
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Progress Report!

I worked some more on the Savage this weekend. I talked to a couple people about mounting the muffler and using the exhaust wrap and the consensus was that it was unecessary. So I bolted it on.

The muffler cut easily behind the crossover connector and I cut four slits to enable me to squeeze this onto the head pipe. This H-D pipe fit nicely, slid on without a struggle but not sloppy either. FYI-the diameter of this pipe where it attaches is 1 7/8". I had to use a regular hose clamp for now, but I have a proper motorcycle muffler clamp on order. I used some high temp silicone sealant (red) to help air-tight the joint. The mount on the muffler has two threaded holes and one of them lined up with one of the two oversized holes on the Savage muffler bracket. I used a couple washers to mount the two together. It is not pretty but seems solid. One could use strapping to rig something more elegant. I could not help but fire it up to hear what it sounded like. Nice, low rumble, lkoud but not obnoxious and very little backfiring. Best Savage sound I have heard.

Here's the muffler where it joins the header:



And here it is where it is mounted to the bracket. You can see the muffler was designed for a H-D FXS1450.:



Next, it was time to remove the rear wheel (note: remove the belt guard when you do this! DAMHIKT) and install the right side passenger peg and replace the green fender with a black one I got with the bike. I had once again removed the tank in this picture in preparation for wiring work.:



Unfortunately, the black fender is bent to the left side. Here you can see it. The bike that originally had the fender on it must have been dropped on the right side. I have already pulled a lot of this bend out and a little more work should straighten it out close to completely.:



I have started troubleshooting the wiring. Most is OK, but the safety interlocks have been disabled. I may fix those or not. I am used to a bike with none anyway (my 1968 CB350). I do want to fix the disabled compression release system. I checked the decomp solenoid and it is working, so I moved on to the time/controller unit. I made up a bunch of jumpers and carefully following the Clymer manual checked both timers. Timer one is bad on this unit. I found one on ebay last night and just got word it shipped so soon I should be able to wire this up properly with a working decompression lever.

I also checked the neautral switch, the wiring from which is dangling under the bike. It tested OK so I will splice it into the wiring. I still have no winking turn signals, although they work now that I have put in new bulbs. I looked at the relay and it is very corroded so I am hoping a good cleaning might get them to wink.

Cheers,

Mike, each day a little closer
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Old 07-26-2010, 01:33 PM   #34
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Obviously, I was wrong: the fender is bent to the right, so the bike must have fallen on the left side. Duh!

I can see that a groove has been cut in the left side of the tire where a fender has rubbed it. Wonder if this was the original fender or if they were both on bikes that were dropped on the left side.
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Old 07-26-2010, 07:51 PM   #35
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thanks for the read , sounds like your having fun , I got to say , it sounds like you "motor cycle guy" is an actual human being unlike the "if your not dropping a ton of $$ every time I see you dont bother me" type I'm used to from the local metric dealer.
Oddly enough I saw this http://treasure.craigslist.org/mcy/1862461659.htmlyesterday thought it was a coinsidence finding this thread today.
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Old 07-28-2010, 07:04 PM   #36
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How is rewiring that rat nest going? Hopefully soon I'll be learning how to fix some things. My mechanic said I could go over and learn
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:06 PM   #37
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Going slow. I am still waiting for some parts that should have been here already. Andrea is out of town for the rest of the week so I have the added complication of having a six and nine year old all to myself.

I did get a new decompression controller from ebay today along with a new fuse holder and I got those on. I also received a new starter solenoid (mine is dangling amongst the wires with no mount) but I still have to get that on. With any luck the rest of the stuff will be here tomorrow--left rear turn signal, front left footpeg, and a new clutch cable.

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:04 PM   #38
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More progress today as new/used parts came in. First, finally a driver's left footpeg. It's hard to ride without one and they are virtually non-existant in the used market.



I also received a four pack of relays bought on ebay off a 2006 Savage, which included a new decompression controller that I needed.



Also, with the package came a new fuse holder, which is nice because it came with the rubber mount enabling me to secure it on the right frame under the seat, unlike my old dangling one.



My turn signals all lit, but would not "wink" so I figured I needed a new flasher relay. Here's one I picked up at Autozone for $2.99, compared to the $38.52 for an OEM. It plugged right in with the same connector.



Finally, I also received a used starter solenoid via another buy on ebay. Here's the old. Bit of a mess, to say the least.



And the ebay purchase. This one has the mount so I can secure this properly down on the frame and out of the way. It also has the rubber cap to keep other wires from causing me grief by hitting the hot terminals, and it has a proper hot lead and cover. Still have to switch these out.



I had turn signals for the left rear and right front on order along with a muffler clamp, but that stuff has not come in yet. Maybe tomorrow.

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 07-29-2010, 06:01 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LWRider View Post
Thought I'd pass this along for those with petcock problems. I have read that this petcock will work on the Savage:
Raptor part no. 5LP-24500-01-00
2003 Yamaha Raptor 660 YFM660R

And where you can get one:
See post above.

Cheers,

Mike
I was the person (or at least one of the people) who was having petcock problems. My Savage was sitting in storage for 13 years (!!) while I was overseas, and I was trying to get it going again. Wasn't starting and it turned out that the petcock was blocked or something. Ordered one on EBay and that did the trick. So I was able to get it running by just replacing all fluids, spark plug, pulling and cleaning carberator, replacing battery and finally replacing the petcock. The front brake fluid had also leaked out and turned to a mush. Thought I'd have to replace something there too, but I just had to pull off and clean the front brake master cylinder and lever, and front calipers, and then bleed the brakes. Now that's working also. I drove it up and down the street, and it seemed to run fairly well, but there was some light smoke coming from the front of the engine. I'm hoping it's just something superficial. Was going to look into that, but ... I had to leave the country again, but only for a month this time. Hopefully it's something minor. Plan on looking into that and some other smaller things when I get back. Having fun checking up on your much-more-involved project from time to time. And good to know that I can get a new petcock if this one starts having problems (the one that I got off of ebay, while cheap, was from a bike even older than mine and it fair-to-poor condition). Ciao.
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Old 07-29-2010, 06:20 PM   #40
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Glad to hear you got your problem solved. Bad thing about the Raptor petcock is there is no reserve.

I had the same thing on the front brake on this bike. That brake fluid had turned to jelly. I thought a rebuild was in order, but once cleaned up, the brakes worked fine again with new fluid.

I am having some smoke from the front of mine, too. Mine is coming from where the exhaust header connects to the cylinder. Check and see if yours is there, too. There is a plug in the head cover just above the left exhaust mounting bolt (looking at the motor from directly in front--your left). I have read that it is pretty common for that plug to leak and when it does it drips onto the hot exhaust pipe. I think that is what mine is doing. While not super easy, it is something that can be done with the engine in place. It is in the head cover not the head, so that makes it much simpler. It looks like it is a simple press fit plug. A little sealant and push it in and close 'er up again.

My local bike shop guy says it may seal up once I've run the bike a bit. If not, I am first going to try a bead of high temp sealant as a temporary fix. Google "Savage Forum" and you will find some good resources specific to this bike. No where near as fun as here, but when I have need for knowledge I look anywhere I can find it!

Good luck,

Mike
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