I'm trying out an electrolysis procedure for removing rust from my tank that I found on the internet. I was very please to find a TON of rust attached to the electrode (Photo Attached) for the first 24 hours. A few more day's and I should have a completely clean tank.
Man I love the internet!
Anyone use this method before? So far I am very pleased.
Ed,
I have done this with my tank as well. I was very impressed. After you are done with the electrolysis it is a good idea to get all the water out and than pour a couple containers of rubbing alcohol into the tank. This will get rid of the water and keep the tank from rusting back up.
Hey guys, explain the procedure to me. I have a new bike and don't need to do it, but I'm curious. And, how old are your bikes? I've never had a tank rust that bad before.
Yes, it's pretty amazing for sure. I just checked the electrode after two hours and it needed to be cleaned again. My tank is from a 1976 Harley Aermacchi SS250. From the amount of rust in tank, it hasn't had gas in it for many years. I was told by the prior owner that he had the bike for 15 years and it sat in his basement. The tank was dry but had, as you can see, a lot of surface rust in the tank. Thankfully their is no rust on the tank or the bike.
If you don't have a model airplane wheel, I have heard of guys using hockey pucks as well. Anything will work as long as it's not a conductor and keep the anode from touching the tank.
I checked and cleaned the electrode about 5 times last night. This morning I checked it again before I left for work. To my surprise the electrode fell apart from the corrosion. I'm making a new electrode as we speak.
Another situation folks run into is finding the right battery charger. When I first did this I used my trickle charger. Unfortunately, the battery charger was what they call a smart charger. It automatically turns off, when the battery is charged, then trickles charges after a while. This method works, but takes about 3 times longer. So I made my own charger.
Another situation folks run into is finding the right battery charger. When I first did this I used my trickle charger. Unfortunately, the battery charger was what they call a smart charger. It automatically turns off, when the battery is charged, then trickles charges after a while. This method works, but takes about 3 times longer. So I made my own charger.
I found this page on how to make a $3 battery charger. Check it out.
After 3 days of subjecting the tank to the electrolysis all of the rust is gone. One question, there is a thin black film coating the inside of the tank. Does any one have a suggestion on how to remove this thin film?
The black film is ionized oxidation. It's generally impervious to any kind of electrolysis because it is so firmly bonded to steel. In fact, many manufacturers CAUSE this type of oxidation to PROTECT their raw steel products. If you have ever seen black coated steel sprockets, now you know what that is. The cause it by exposing the part to high temperature salt water (350+), the salt concentration is high enough to prevent boiling. That's what these guys do (a client of mine)....... http://www.rylesprocket.com/
The only way to remove it is chemically or manually (wire brush). However, it should be fine to leave it in there if you flush the tank well.
I have heard of guys using air compressors or powerwashers. I don't have either to I washed my tank with soapy water a few times and then poured a couple containers of rubbing alcohol and swirled it around. I guess the rubbing alcohol gets rid of the water. Then you can treat the tank with POR-15 or Kreme or just put gas in it.
OK, all you expert Electrolysis'ers out there. I'm workin on this and I have NO clue if its working. I started out with a hanger that I left in over night. Checked it in the morning and there was NOTHING on the hanger. I moved on to a bolt I had, but its zinc plated and I'm not sure if that works or not? One more round of trouble shooting and I gave up and just went with something I KNEW was just plain old steel. I cut some rebar, wrapped some copper speakerwire around one end hotglued it to encase the copper so it wouldn't be exposed to the A&H washing soda mixture. I then electric taped a couple of 'donuts' on either end of the rebar to keep it from touching then tank when submerged. I picked up a battery charger form Autozone that allows me to select 2, 6 or 10 amp's manually. I set it to 10 amps. Hoping I see something in the morning. What I really want to know is how to test if this thing is doing ANYTHING at all. Am I just rusting my tank more by leaving that solution in there with no active current running through. This is the charger I purchased. Schumacher Speed Charger — 10/6/2 Amp, Automatic, Model# SC-1000A
. There is no indication that its "charging" should it show anything on the LED indecators to the left. When I plug it in and everything is in place, I only get the lights showing what kind of patter and how many amps which I manually select. ZERO indication of any activity on any of the other LED's. Is there any way to test if I have it set up right? I'm kind of losing it not knowing if its working or not.
The anode is better if it is stainless steel. All the rust on the anode in the above pics is not from the tank. You will know the process is working if you see bubbles forming. The solution in the tank is washing soda - it doesn't have to be very strong.
You cannot have website names as your screen name on most forums.
I also know people that just change it themselves to Banned as sort of a trick on everyone.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Motorcycle Forum
946K posts
111.6K members
Since 2004
A forum community discussing all bikes from Harley Davidson to Honda, Suzuki, KTM, Yamaha, and BMW. Come join the discussion about performance modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!