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How to change oil.(Demonstrated on a 2001 Yamaha R1)

38K views 32 replies 17 participants last post by  hogcowboy 
#1 ·
This is a how to for changing oil on a yamaha R1, other sportbikes will be similar, non-fairing bikes will be easier...so here we go!

First you will need an oil drain pan, filter wrench, new filter, and new oil.
Also make sure your bike is good and warmed up as warm oil will get more of the crude out of your engine.

Next you will need to take your fairing(s) off(if applicable).





After you take your fairings off, then you will need to align your oil drain pan and then take out the oil plug. This can be achieved by using a socket.




Once removed the oil will flow out pretty quick so have the pan already underneath the bike before you start loosening it.




Next remove the filter and let all the oil drain out. You should probly let the bike sit for a little bit to make sure it all drains out. Also if you drain it on a kickstand instead of a centerstand or swingarm stand, more oil will drain out.




Once your ready to put the new filter on, go ahead and put your drain plug back in snuggly but do not overtighten. Then fill up your oil filter with some oil so you don't have a dry start. Rub a little oil around the o ring of your filter so you will be able to get it off next time.




Next start filling the bike with oil. If your not sure on the amount start with too little as opposed to too much, its easier to add more than to drain some out. You will need to turn the bike on and let it run for a few minutes before checking the level. After it is warmed up again, cut it off and let it sit for a few and check the level, add more as needed! Hopes this helps, if anyone wants to add anything feel free!


 
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#5 ·
Great How To Rex !!!!

Not close on my bike you have to remove a fin covered alum cover to even see the filter and it has a screw running through the filter with a spring on the end only thing that applys is the screw to drain and to oil.

Most of us have sold our Antiques... LOL

I understand what you are saying, my Old GoldWing had a cartridge filter like yours. But today, the majority of engines have Spin-On filters. There are filter adapters available to put a Spin-On on your bike. There are a couple out there, and just know if you want SAE or Metric thread, both were available two years ago.

Doc
 
#10 ·
That works or a little Dawn soap, some water and a bruch is what I use.

Something that many people don't do is Oil Analysis. I use it on my bike, which is how I found just how poor a K&N Air Filter is... But...

I use an open top drain pan, funnel and end cap wrench. I usually forget to have an Analysis Kit on hand when I am ready to change, so I keep a 16 oz water bottle that has been dried out to save my sample in and label it with the pertinent info.

I completely wash and dry the pan and funnel and store them inside of a plastic bag so when I fill the bottle with the oil, there is no contamination.

May sound Extreme or Anal, but a little goes a long way and the $22.55 for the Analysis Kit and the Peace of mind it gives me is a lot better than $8000.00 for a new engine...

Doc
 
#27 ·
Did my first oil change on my Honda Phantom yesterday at 4100 miles since the last one. Manual says do it every 8K, glad I did it yesterday as the oil had the color of Dr Pepper. I was truely surprised at this oil color. There was no sediment in it, I poured it into a large jug for disposal and kept about 8 ounces to take to my Honda dealer to see if #1 do they think this color is normal and #2 did they really do an oil change the last time I took it in to them. Getting the filter off was real bear. I read where shops put them on so you can't turn them off unless you have their kind of tools while reading that hand tightening is enough.
Looking for feedback. Bike ran great for 2 hours this morning at mostly 65-70mph
 
#28 ·
Chef,

8000 miles is under ideal conditions. The API says that 98% of driving is considered Severe and if a Severe Service Limit by the OEM is not set that you should cut your change Interval by 50%.

You cannot tell if oil is good by looking at it, smelling it or feeling it. It must go in for analysis.

As for the filter: An OEM filter utilizes a different O-Ring and requires it to be torqued where, with an aftermarket filter, hand tightenig is not only OK, it is the proper way or you can blow out the O-Ring by overtightening.

Riding conditions can effect the oil as well as if you have anything such as a K&N air filter which will drastically reduce the life of the oil.

Take a look at the following Motorcycle oil White Pages. Pick one of the Top 3 finishers and you will be assured of a quality oil.

http://bestoil4you.com/files/MC_Oil_Study.pdf

As for oil filters, the top 3: AMSOIL, WIX, Purolator ML Series. Regardless of what anyone says, DO NOT use a Purolator Pure One.

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best


Doc
 
#29 ·
Old thread but: don't do what my friend (and many others) does: She drains the oil after the bike is warmed up. Tehn she runs the bike like that for a while "to get all of the oil out"... I cringe every time I hear about people doing this. They are probably causing 80% of their total engine wear in these moments. Can't be persuaded how bad this is - "no, it does no harm, really!" Yeah. Right. And she does this on expensive, newish Blackbirds etc. DON't do this! The few ounces of remaining oil need to be in there. It does not "contaminate" the new oil or anything like that.
 
#30 ·
You can do it with a R1, just has to be done in a way similar to this.....

http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145500

I was just changing my oil tonight and it dawned on me that I have a few little tricks to make the most of the change. So, why not share them with my forum brothers? This applys directly to '02-03 R1s, but it should also work on the current generation. Regardless, test to make sure that the bike will crank without starting before dropping the oil!

Here goes:

First off you want the bike hot. So run it standing still until the fan kicks on (~220*), then shut it down and get right to work. This assures that the oil is as thin as it gets in order to drain as much as possible. Most people know this, but it's worth mentioning. Go ahead and drain the oil and remove the filter. Wait until the oil stops. Make sure your bike is in neutral.

Now with the filter and drain plug still out comes the first trick. Put the bike into diagnostic mode. While holding both buttons on the cluster turn the key to run. Continue to hold down the buttons until it displays "diag". Release the buttons and then press and hold them again until it says "d01:xx". In diagnostic mode the fuel injectors are disabled. Crank the bike for two 5-6 second bursts, with a rest in between, and watch how much more dirty oil comes out. Mostly from the filter boss.

Another common trick is to pre-fill the filter with oil. Do it! Pour it right up to the brim and wait for it to soak into the media. Then fill it up once more. Reinstall the filter and drain plug. Pour in the remainder of the oil amount spec'd in the manual. Cap it and then do the diag trick again. Cranking once more for about 6 seconds. This assures the the filter and the rest of the oiling path is primed and ready to go. Turn the key off, then back on again to clear out of diag mode. Start the bike and run it for about 15 more seconds, shut it down and wait 1 minute or so for the oil to settle. Then top off according to the window.



Hope this helps!
 
#33 ·
Believe it or not I've seen many do just a flush and go without any harm. I won't risk it but it's doable. Especially if you've had your oil tested several times and see a safe trend. Again, too risky for me.
 
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