1976 Bmw R60/6

[SOFLABIMMER]

Hi Folks,

I just got my hands on a 1976 R60/6 and i was looking for any advice on replacing a few parts etc...

It's a project bike. 33K miles. Hasn't run since 1988 but the owner (one owner) has maintained it well enough. The engine turns nicely. No leaks or anything on the drive. It has a R90 transmission bolted on. The carburators are off but are Keihns in excellent condition and sized to the ported and polished intake. It also has a custom set of head pipes that both go to the right side into one pipe and no mufflers.

So what I am wondering about first is the exhaust. Should I keep the custom head pipes and just find a compatible muffler for them or should I go back to factory configuration and get two new mufflers?

Any advice would be appreciated. I'd put a pic up but the system doesn't seem to have an upload feature...

Thanks!

[joncallihan]

You have to have at least 5 (I think) posts before you can add photos.

IMHO, I would go back to stock on the exhaust. Single side exhaust systems are not only not "stock", but any R bike should look like an R bike.

Jon

[SOFLABIMMER]

Yes, I'm thinking that too... but replacing the head pipes AND 2 new mufflers is quite a bit more expensive then just putting a slip on mufler on the existing pipes... cheapest I can find the stuff I need is at Bob's BMW online.

THanks for the heads up n the post count/photo thing. One more post and that's 5 so I'll put up the photos I have then.

Basically the bike is about $1500 to $2000 worth of parts away from running (esitmate loosely based on what seems to be missing) but considering I paid only a very low sum for it I'm not too upset. I am a bit aprehensive about the non-stock carbs as well but I do have the original ones in a box... they look to be in decent shape. I think the previous owner was more concerned with horsepower than keeping it stock...

RW

[SOFLABIMMER]

1st pic

[SOFLABIMMER]

Ive got my work cut out for me...

[SOFLABIMMER]

I have to say this bike needs A LOT of work.

I'm making my lists and pricing out parts... I can't even find some of them on the web... honestly I don't know where to start.

The carbs it came with are 34mm Keihns, sized and ported. However it seems that they have never been fitted onto the bike. The rubber bits that came with them don't fit properly at all. I had expected that they had been installed previously but I guess not.

The front fender looks like it was crushed and then repaired so that's got to go and be replaced.

It's missing the seat hinges.

All the brake cables are off and old and probably need to be replace.

Gators were cracked so I cut them off. It is going to need a set of those.

The head pipes are custom crud so they came off. Need new pipes.

No mufflers so it needs those.

Tree mount for the rear turn signals is missing.

Need a battery.

No battery covers so it needs those too.

The seat needs new chrome bits or be completely refurbished or replaced.

Need an air filter

The tank needs to be blasted, repared, repainted and striped.

Probably need new springs for the rear.


THis one is going to take a few years. lol Oh well.

[builtdesign]

I'd say that bike is in pretty darn good shape all things concidered.

Can I ask what you paid for it? And how'd you come across it also?

[SOFLABIMMER]

I got if from the original owner (paperwork is incredible!), he gave me everything.

THe bike was bought in 1976 in Canada. I have the original bill of sale. He brought it down to Florida in 1984, he gave me the US Import documents too. A pile of receipts for maintenance work came with it as well. I paid somewhere around $1000.00 (give or take) not including the cost of trucking it across the state and various other misc. costs.

It was never titled in the states so I have to get over to the DMV next week and get it re-titled. I don't think that will be a problem aside from the fees which will be around $300.

Here is where I stopped last night:

replacement carbs bing originals w fittings $1,000
mufflers & head pipes $500
font fender & fittings or get repaired $200
rear fender & fittings $200
tank pads $45
seat hinges (might have) $????
front rubber fork protectors $40
tree mount for rear signals $45
battery $80
spark plugs $20
seat or reupulster & chrome seat $400
spring for center stand ???
air filter $80 ???
battery covers $130.00

$2635

NEED TO DO:

take drive off and examine splines
take heads off & check out cylenders/drive shaft
check drum brakes out
reattach final drive shaft to transmission
figure out if engine guards actually fit & how they fit
check out electrics

[FLBandit]

Sweet bike. A BMW is among the top 3 bikes I want to own at some point. (Others are Triumph and Moto Guzzi) With the list you have, have you considered trying to find another bike with some of what you need? I haven't been over there in about 5 years, but there was a place in Tampa called RTM that used to have quite a bit of older BMWs and parts.

[SOFLABIMMER]

I'll look up RTM, thaks for the suggestion!

I just got done taking apart the final drive and really good news there (suprisingly!). THe splines actually look great for a bike with 33k miles on it. I was expecting the worst and was glad to see that they were in good shape. The lube on the splines, both on the interior of the drive and the drive shaft had turned into that hard gunky crap that it tends to turn into after 30+ years... lol... not fun cleaning that gunk out. WHile I was in there I took a look at the breaks... some scoring on the pads so I should probably replace them, but I think these will work for a while more if they have to.

I have to go get some molly grease before putting it all back togther but at least I know that the rear drive is still kickin!

Tomorow's project (I took a day off) will be the front wheel break and the front forks. There seems to be some leakage (old and dry now) that dripped oil down the front of the clamshell, the steering damper, it's mounts and the horn.More cleaning... yay!

[SOFLABIMMER]

First question/request for help.

I cannot for the life of me get the final drive off the driveshaft housing/swingarm. The seal must be 30+ years old and had become a dried super glue like substance. No amount of pounding with a rubber hammer works to loosen it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to split these two things apart?

[Mitchy]

Man that brings back memories. I had an R60/6 in the mid 70s, she was 2nd hand when I bought her in about 75/76 but not real old. She had well over 100,000 when I sold her. I road her across the Nullarbor Plain, to work every day as an apprentice engine reconditioner and used to take her into very rough fire trails in the snowy mountains. One trip I got past the point of no return down a very steep track, road tires wouldn’t hold, I would ride straight down until she was starting to skid away and I’d let off the front brake, turn it side on and drop her onto the up hill cylinder head to stop. I’m almost in tears thinking about all the things we did together. Mine would do about 160kmh and that’s where I rode her. I still remember the night I test rode her, we just fitted, a warm summer night, she went where I looked, we just fitted. If you have 10% the fun I had on my girl you will love her. I notice the carbies are constant velocities, In Australia the 60 had normal slide carbies and the 75, 90 and 90s had constant velocities. Careful doing up the finned spin on exhaust header nuts, they can be very hard to undo with damaging them. I used to do mine up by hand, warm the bike up and with gloved hands do them up only as tight as could by hand. If you have the final drive apart wrap the rear wheel spline in insulation tape before sliding the seal back over it so you don’t damage the seal, I didn’t once and rode from Wagga Wagga to Sydney and back in the rain with no back brake as when I damaged the seal oil leaked into the back brake. I still have a genuine BMW workshop manual which covers all of the /6 bikes. Did you get the standard BMW tool kit? Good quality tools including feeler gauges, tyre levers, pump, spanners and even a BMW hand towel. With the manual they are very easy to work on. Love her, treat her right and she will reward you with joy beyond belief.

[SOFLABIMMER]

Hi Mitchy, thanks for the good words. I don't have an original tool kit but I know where to get one when I'm ready. We are a long way off from needing it. Update is a got the final drive off the swing arm. I have a used but working transmission on the way to replace the old broke one. NExt is to find some 26mm bing carbs to replace the aftermarket ones that came with it.

[fleabitten]

Hey Soflabimmer I can help you out with the sidecovers - they're off an R90S. Send me a PM.

[fleabitten]

Soflabimmer can't send PM due to the number of posts. Covers are smoke orange. I'll reply to your PM when I get my post count up. ALso have the rear blinker mounts. Where are you situated? Postage may be pricy.

[mwarter]

Nice Bike. I have a German Parts Catalog manual for all 50/5 to 90/s models. would you be interested in this binder.

[johnnybuffalo]

Very nice bike

[jon-r227]

Cool bike -- I'm working on an R25 but ultimately I'm sure I'll restore something bigger and more rideable like this. The R25 tops out at less than 60mph and probably should be ridden at 40mph or less with the vintage tires and drum brakes etc.

Check out the vintage BMW forum. Lots of knowledgeable guys in there and they have a "classic" category for bikes form 1970 on.

http://www.vintagebmw.org/v7/forum

[bondo343]

nice clean bike

[74'kickstart_Oregon]

Any luck with your R90?

About to buy my first...

[dlxcoupe]

I just comepleted a 1974 60/6 with a few mods. (not many) 42K miles. Cannot post pics however..

[joe pqin]

well congradulations on the R60/6 Iv'e had my "Swartzie" an R60/6 for 27 years now 208,000 miles and still running strong just love her

[joe pqin]

long live the 1976 BMW R60/6

[joe pqin]

where r the 600/6 lovers