![]() |
|
|
#1 |
|
Verified
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 15
![]() |
I have a Suzuki Madura GV700 that I just got and I am realizing that the clutch is not acting as it should. I rode it around for a little bit when I first got it and everything seemed fine. I was able to take off pretty quickly and keep speeding up while shifting through the gear. Now I am noticing that it is not taking off as fast as it used to. I am thinking that maybe the clutch is loose or not adjusted properly. It is a hydrolic clutch though and I didnt know if those need to be adjusted. If anyone has any information on this kind of problem, please let me know.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Administrator
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Illinois, USA
Posts: 15,914
![]() |
Hydraulic clutches can start acting up if there is air in the line, the same as brakes. If the lever is feeling soft, that's probably the issue.
They have to be carefully checked for leaks in the lines and the master and slave cylinders to make sure air can't get in. Then the air needs to be bled out (like brake lines) to return to normal function. It could be that the fluid needs to be flushed as well. That should be done every year or two depending on use and humidity. If the fluid is no longer close to clear (turning brownish), it should be flushed. This removes any moisture and other contaminates that can damage the lines or cylinders.
__________________
2008 XL1200R To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Verified
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 15
![]() |
Yea, I just checked the fluid and it is brownish. It's not loose at all though. The lever is quite stiff when I go to shift. It's just that sometimes it's like the clutch is only catching on the last half inch of the lever travel. I'll be flushing out the hydraulics soon because it needs it. I think I should just do a full flush of everything and check everything that needs replacing. I'm kinda new to bikes and not always sure what is up. Thanks again for the help.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Administrator
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Illinois, USA
Posts: 15,914
![]() |
I'm not sure if there is an adjustment or not. You might have to check the manual for that.
__________________
2008 XL1200R To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Florissant, MO
Posts: 2,564
![]() |
The fluid should be changed every year in a clutch, because of the heat the slave cylinder is exposed to.
Now, for some questions: does the engine increase in rpm faster than the bike accelerates? If you hit the throttle hard in an upper gear, does it slip before starting to go? Does the problem get worse as the bike gets hotter, so that it seems fairly good at first, then gets worse? If the tendency to slip stays about the same, hot or cold, your clutch springs probably need replacing, a common problem with Suzuki clutches. If it gets worse as it heats up, the small hole(s) in the bottom of the reservoir are at least partially blocked, allowing pressure to build in the slave. When you replace the fluid, suck the old fluid from the reservoir first, and, carefully, clear those holes, with a fine wire.
__________________
'68-7? CB450 and '05 S50 Boulevard |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Verified
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 15
![]() |
does the engine increase in rpm faster than the bike accelerates?
yes. When I let go over the clutch in first the RPMs will go up faster than normal. When I get into second I have to drop the RPMs almost down to idle before the clutch will catch. If I rev it too much when changing gears, or even try to speed up too much the RPMs will blow through the roof and I will go only slightly faster. If you hit the throttle hard in an upper gear, does it slip before starting to go? Yep. Same as above. When I get into 4th and 5th gear going about 50-60mph I cant really hit the gas too hard or the clutch will seem to slip and I'll really just go nowhere. Does the problem get worse as the bike gets hotter, so that it seems fairly good at first, then gets worse? Yes and no. I guess the correct answer is that it is very intermittent. A couple days ago I bled the clutch line. Replaced the fluid with new stuff and hit the road for a test. Everything seemed fine. I get the bike back home just to check on some stuff and then take it out again. The problem was back and it wasnt the fluid. I parked the bike and let it sit over night. The next morning, around 10am, I went out to go for a ride before it got hot to see if everything was alright in the cold. It was not. It was doing the same thing. Parked it for a couple hours and went out again and everything was fine. It shifted great and had amazing pickup. It felt like I was on a rocket and not a row boat. Today I went out in the heat and it was fine for about an hour and then on my way home after waiting at a stop sign for a couple minutes it started acting up again. It really feels like the clutch isnt releasing all the way and causing it to slip. I had this happen in my VW bug once and I just loosened the clutch cable and everything was fine. Ive also checked the lever to see if anything if blocking it. It is fully extended when I let go of it. Thanks again for your help guys. I would hate to have to take the bike in and have it not do anything wrong in the presence of a professional. |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Florissant, MO
Posts: 2,564
![]() |
Interesting symptoms, to say the least. Do you know the history of oil changes? Any chance auto oil was used, instead of MC oil?
From those symptoms, I'd guess that either there is something floating around in the master cylinder that intermittently blocks the pressure relief hole at the bottom of the reservoir, or the plates are worn/warped. I don't recall hearing that contamination from auto oil with friction modifiers can cause a clutch to behave that way. If there's a chance the wrong oil was used, or you don't know, I've read (haven't tried it myself) that treating the oil with Marvel Mystery Oil or Seafoam, running it a hundred or so miles, then a fresh oil change can clean up the friction plates, if they're not too bad off. Otherwise, the contaminated plates would have to go; I'd put fresh springs in, just because they're a weak point, when the clutch is opened up.
__________________
'68-7? CB450 and '05 S50 Boulevard |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Verified
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 15
![]() |
Thanks for the info. I kinda put this bike on the back burner last year as I lost my job and didnt have much time or money to work on it. I'm employed now and I'm going to get back in it.
I drained the bike of all fluids last summer and added new fluids designed for the bike with what little money I had left. I started it once every couple weeks for a couple months until it just didnt want to start anymore. It always had some carb issues so I'm pretty certain that is where I need to start now before I hit the clutch. Again, thanks for the info and I will be trying that before I take it in for a new clutch. Take care. |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|