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#1 |
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Master At Arms
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 112
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I am going to be replacing the brake line on my honda shadow 1983 vt500c and
I and ordering a custom one off ebay here http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOBBER-MOTOR...85aefd&vxp=mtr I don't know the length but I shall measure that when I get home. I need a straight and a 15 degree bent banjo connector. The problem i need help with is I don't know what size 10 or 12 mm? the banjo screws I have now are 12 mm head but the bolt seems smaller to be 10 mm. Does anyone know for sure? I just don't want to order the wrong one. I haven't been able to find any specifications on it anywhere like bikebandit.com etc suggestions; where to find technical specs? |
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#2 |
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Administrator
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Illinois, USA
Posts: 15,833
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I don't know if these are measured from the bolt size or the diameter of the connection. Someone here may know.
Ebay has a section where you can ask the seller a question. It's somewhere in the actual item listing. You could ask them where to measure the size for the proper fit. If they are a decent seller, they should be able to get back to you quickly. If they ignore the question, they probably aren't someone you want to do business with anyway.
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#3 |
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Master At Arms
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 112
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sweet, i went ahead and asked the seller he responded very quickly. Apparently all hondas are 10mm banjos. So keep that in mind if anyone asks
. I am going to order one once I measure how long it is. I measured it last night but i was so tired i instantly forgot how long it was when i got inside :P. |
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#4 |
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Administrator
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Illinois, USA
Posts: 15,833
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Be careful, if it's 2 inches too short, you can't stretch it to fit.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Delaware, Ohio
Posts: 3,232
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Yep, that's true. Add an inch or two to the length if you are uncertain. I think I was the one that mentioned them to you. If you really want to do it right, pull off your line and measure it, then look at how the fittings are angled with the line pulled out full length. That is critical. You can always put the old line back on for a while when waiting for the new line.
That is what I did, I had the lines off the bike and looked at how they would set up for me, banjo angle bends and how they were fitted up in rotation on the line at the top banjo to the bottom banjo. Hit it right and you're good to go.
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KLX650C, Zephyr 550 SR500, Bultaco Sherpa T |
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#6 |
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Master At Arms
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 112
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I am going to order the brake line, The guy said he had a swivel one that can go on any angle for 4$ more. I am probably going to do that.
Also side note. I've been having problems with my front brake and it locking up. I rebuilt the master cylinder which helped a lot actually but it is still locking up I have noticed a pattern though. I want your input on it. As of right now as a work around I have lowered the pressure in the brake line which makes it not lock up. I still have 100% stopping power so that is good. Anyway. I have noticed on very hot days like 90+ which it has been quite a few times. The brake is very spongy to where the brakes are almost already in the locked up position. When I move the bike you can hear the pads drag across the brake disc. I go out at night and check it and its not as spongy and its not dragging. This is telling me that the fluid inside is heating up/expanding in the line causing the brakes to lock up and it being spongy. I took it out when it was about 85 and they locked up about 2 miles down the road. I took it out a while ago when it was 70 for about 3 hours and didn't lock up once. While I still think my main problem is somewhere in the line (which i am still going to replace) I didn't think fluid was supposed to expand like that? or is it just the super old brake line that is on it causing it to do that?. I have no clue how old the brake line is; could very well be the original. Its the standard black rubber one. Any thoughts? |
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#7 |
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Verified
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Columbus, IN
Posts: 18
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check the master cylinder again, they (all AFAIK) have an additional small port that's easily clogged and small enough to be overlooked to deal with fluid expansion like that. I saw a thread somewhere else about an identical problem the other day and that was the solution
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#8 |
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Master At Arms
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 112
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hmm , I will definitely take a look at that. I guess I should have added one more detail. (you still may be right now)
When it locks up, I will loosen the top banjo bolt. As soon as I loosen it the brake will be unlocked. The strange thing is, when i loosen it all the fluid comes out the top of the bolt instead of the bottom. ..hopefully that makes sense? I was thinking it was possibly the banjo bolt it is clogged or bad. Because the last owner did not treat this bike well and he did not know how to use wrenches so he almost stripped a lot of bolts that i have to replace eventually. Ha now that I say that, your explanation sounds close or right.. |
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#9 |
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Administrator
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Illinois, USA
Posts: 15,833
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There is a check valve in the bottom of the master cylinder which only allows the fluid to run toward the caliper during application of the brakes and allows pressure back into the reservoir once pressure on the lever is released.
If that check valve is buggered up (It only takes a minuscule amount of contamination to do this), it can release the fluid down the brake line, but not let it come back into the reservoir. That would cause the brakes to lock up. Another possibility is that the piston in the caliper is corroded or otherwise contaminated, causing it to physically jam. If pressure is not going to the piston evenly due to rust or sticky seals, it can get cockeyed a few millimeters, which is all it takes to wedge it in place.
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#10 |
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Master At Arms
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 112
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if it is clogged how do you suggest i unclog it
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