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Old 08-05-2013, 09:56 PM   #1
crane550
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Default Leaking gas

Hi guys,

Got a weird problem I hope someone can explain for me. I bought this bike earlier in the summer, and have had no problems with it.

I typically fill it up, ride until it sputters, and then switch to reserve. I have noticed however on this bike it does not like to run good when I do that. It runs crappy for a mile or two then typically clears up and then rides fine again. Well last time it did this it did not clear up, and then I noticed gas spilling from under the seat. Removed the seat and found this. There is a nipple there with no hose on it, and gas pours out when running.



To give you a frame of reference here is the same angle but just backed out a bit.



When I rode it last I also noticed white smoke from the tailpipe. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

BTW...my bike

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Old 08-06-2013, 06:52 AM   #2
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That looks like the fuel overflow. My guess is that the float is adjusted too high, allowing too much fuel into the carb bowl.
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Old 08-07-2013, 10:33 PM   #3
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Is this a California model Intruder? Does it have a round gas cap? That hose with the wire spring around it should be the fuel line to the front carb. If it IS a CA model (round cap), that other line may be for the fuel vapor system.
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:22 PM   #4
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I think it is the overflow. How do you adjust the float?

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Old 08-08-2013, 10:29 PM   #5
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Before you adjust the float, check the level first. Get a piece of clear tubing that will fit the drain, and turn it up along side the bowl, in a J shape, right-hand side. You should see a gap in the casting, where the bowl meets the body. When you open the bowl drain, the fuel should rise to about 7mm below the top edge of the bowl (petcock open). If the level is too high, you have to take the bowl off; there are 4 screws. A pin holds the float, and there is a bendable tab that pushes the float valve closed. That pin only comes out one side.
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:07 PM   #6
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Do you have to remove the carb for this operation?

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Old 08-09-2013, 11:29 PM   #7
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Not to check the level; that's done on the bike, with gas in the tank. Getting the bowl off, however, could be difficult, although you may be able to remove the filter and rotate the carb enough to get to the screws. Not a lot of room in there. If you pop the carb out of the boot, though, it may be easier; just don't disconnect the cables, or you will have a lot of adjusting to do.
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Old 08-12-2013, 04:02 AM   #8
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Ok, well I have not had much luck yet. When the bike is running gas still pours out of the overflow tube on top. About 12 oz (enough to fill a pop can) in about 20 seconds.

I attached a small hose to the drain on the bottom and opened the screw. The gas level rose to about level with the seam where the float housing meets teh rest of the caberetor. It looks lower in the picture. Anyways, thoughts? I really do not want to remove the carb from the bike if I can't help it, but looking at it I don't think I can open it up to get to the float without removing the whole thing.

Alex

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Old 08-12-2013, 02:07 PM   #9
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That is way too full; it should stop a bit more than 1/4" below that line. That, and the gas leaking problem, implies that your float valve isn't closing properly. I'm afraid the carb has to come out; you should remove both as a unit.
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Old 08-12-2013, 06:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WintrSol View Post
That is way too full; it should stop a bit more than 1/4" below that line. That, and the gas leaking problem, implies that your float valve isn't closing properly. I'm afraid the carb has to come out; you should remove both as a unit.
WintrSol- thanks so much for your help. Carburetors are something I don't know much about. I have rebuilt many engine, but I always leave carb work for someone else.

Anyways, here is a video showing the float. It looks ok to me, but then again I am not certain of what to look for. Gravity drops the float when I hold it, and it doesn't seem to "stick" when I try to push it up. My untrained eye doesn't see anything wrong, but you might catch something.

*Edit. My post count is not high enough. Search "crane550 vs700 float"
in youtube. Sorry I can't just link it.

Thanks again.

Alex
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Old 08-12-2013, 06:25 PM   #11
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Sorry, search youtube for "crane550" click "Alex Crane" and you will see it in my uploads. You are being super helpful, so sorry it is making it hard to share this video with you
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Old 08-12-2013, 06:40 PM   #12
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Now that you have it apart, check the float height. With the float just resting against the valve needle, it should measure 1.1" from the bowl mating surface to the bottom of the float (top, with the carb inverted). The metal tab that presses against the valve needle is gently bent to adjust it. Before you adjust it, though, extract the pin the float hangs from, and check the valve needle for wear. If there is a noticeable ring worn into the conical tip, it needs replacing.

Too bad you disconnected all the cables from that carb - resetting the sync cable from the start can be a bitch, and requires vacuum gauges and a running engine.
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Old 08-12-2013, 09:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WintrSol View Post
Too bad you disconnected all the cables from that carb - resetting the sync cable from the start can be a bitch, and requires vacuum gauges and a running engine.
I might be missing something here, but I don't see how I would have changed the presets in it when I took it off. Both cables going to it had a ball on the end, and I simple disconneted it the same way I disconnect the throttle cable on any other car. The idle screw, nuts for the cables ect did not change, there was a single screw that release the part that held the outer section of the cables, so when I put it back it should have lined up exactly where it was before.

Anyways, the choke was by far the hardest thing to get back on. The outer screw was a nightmare to get on with the little clip and spring. I did get it back on though.

Oh, and by the way.... FIXED.

I checked the float high vs the measurements you gave me, and it was spot on. The only thing I can think of is I must have cleared out some gunk or something. I didn't see any debris inside, but I did go ahead and clean it out real good anyways and blew air and carb cleaner through all the passages. Bolted it back together, and it fired right up, nothing come out of the overflow. It backfired twice and then ran smooth. I started putting everything back together and cleaned it really good while I was at it.

I test rode it down to the gas station to top it off. I didn't realize it, but I was pretty low on fuel and it died while riding. Switched to reserve, and it came alive again right away. Thank goodness!

Anyways, I think I am in the clear for now.

Thank you!


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Old 08-12-2013, 10:12 PM   #14
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Great - must have been something stuck in the valve, and it cleared when you opened it up.
If you did get it back together without disturbing the adjusters, that's good (and not easy).Many of these have never had the sync done, and the cables slowly change as they age, so it's something you might want to look into. A good sync will make it run really smooth, and pull harder, and, once you've done it, it's not hard to test. If you live anywhere near me, I would be glad to show you how.
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:04 PM   #15
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Well I hate to revive this thread- but it's happening again. I messed with it for a while, and finally tapped the carb hard enough that the float broke free again and stopped letting gas out of the breather port, however now it runs really rough, idles pretty high, and doesn't have any power in the higher RPMS's. Cruising at 40 is not possible. You can get going that fast, but it is not smooth. Tons of backfires, sputtering, and hesitation.

I am pulling my carb apart- again. I really never wanted to do this ever again but here I am. I am currently boiling the stupid thing in water and purple power concentrate. I will blow it all out when it is done and try to reassemble. Any ideas on what is causing this? Why would my float be getting stuck closed when I run out of gas? I didn't find ANY dirt inside.

Alex

Soup anyone?
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Old 12-29-2013, 06:21 PM   #16
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Carbs are simple if you keep them that way. Of course, the float has to adjusted so that the fuel shuts off before the gas reaches the top of the carb. The float has to be able to move the needle valve up and down without binding on the side of the carb. The needle valve has to be able to move up and down and shut off the fuel when in the up position. The needle valve will have a small rubber tip and cannot have grooves on the rubber tip. The seat has to be clean with no grooves. Then the jets have to be clean with no trash. Oh, most important, no water is allowed in the gas (big problem). Rebuild kits should be available. Old needle valves and seats will cause all kinds of problems. Old floats may become saturated with gas and not float thus letting gas come into the carb continuously (very bad). Older floats (copper type) may develop a hole, filling up with gas and thus not float. Old fuel (smells like varnish) will clog up a carb in a heart beat. Clogged fuel filters will cause loss of power. Like I said, keep it simple.
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Old 12-29-2013, 06:29 PM   #17
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Oh, I'll pass on the soup
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