best oil for a bike

86redrebel · 06-24-2012, 07:01 PM

I just changed the oil on my 250 rebel, i know it says use 10w-40 non detergent oil, but i used sae30 instead. has anyone had a problem? am i gonna fry my clutch? leave it for a 1000 miles till next change or drain it out and go with 10w40? what do you think?

Dodsfall · 06-24-2012, 07:05 PM

I don't think you will fry the clutch.

Personally, I would change it out for the proper grade. The few bucks and few minutes of work to change it will be worth the piece of mind knowing it's been done right.

86redrebel · 06-24-2012, 07:06 PM

i was kind of thinking the same, but hoping someone would say they used it before and not to worry. lol.

thanks

markk53 · 06-25-2012, 07:58 PM

There is a reason they recommend a multi-grade. Part of it is the nature of the oil viscosity at temperatures. Another is that straight grade oil seldom has the same additive packages in the blend. For the amount of oil and the cost, I'd dump it and put in some 10w-40. Personally I'd use motorcycle grade oil, just because there are additives in the oil that aren't legal for automobile oil and it is specifically blended to work with the clutch and gear box. But that's just my way of thinking.

Squisher · 06-26-2012, 11:49 AM

Typical automotive (especially those labeled "energy saving") are not appropriate at all for a motorcycle with a wet clutch (as in the vast majority of 'em).

Look for conforming to JASO type standards -- they will be more properly formulated for shared engine/gearbox duty and a wet clutch.

Tankhead · 06-26-2012, 12:37 PM

I use, like a lot of other riders of the same model as mine, use Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 full synthetic and motorcycle approved. It had a great analysis from Blackstone labs, I think its called, after almost 3K miles of use. $20/gal at WalMart.

punisher · 06-29-2012, 08:14 AM

Oil is oil but engines have differant needs give it what it needs.

Gandalf · 06-30-2012, 05:18 PM

I always shell out the extra bucks for Lucas oil motorcycle oil (full synthetic for newer bikes, semi synthetic for older bikes.) I think it's more than worth it for the peace of mind. Also make sure you're using a good filter - running the best oil with a crap filter kinda defeats the point. I'm partial to the K&N's myself, due to the nut on the back.

smooth1 · 06-30-2012, 11:40 PM

Use what the manufacturer specifies. I do it because I figure I'm not smarter than the engineers who designed my bike-just sayin

bglaze · 07-06-2012, 11:07 PM

Good thread. Just bought my first Rebel 250, and I have learned a lot here.

Kiwi Steve · 07-10-2012, 09:21 PM

Can't understand why they call for a "10w-40 non detergent oil". Engine oils need detergent to keep the engine clean, especially the ring belt area and cyclinder bore. In fact, I wouldn't know where you'd find a non-detergent engine oil. I worked for 20+ years in an international oil company, the last 8 of those in their lubricants technical centre.

Use an oil which is marked on the bottle API S*/MA SAE 10W-40, where the star is the highest letter you can find - maybe SJ, SL or SM. This is designed to have the frictional characteristics that your transmission/clutch require and will give your engine the maximum protection against wear and deposits.

kamesama980 · 07-12-2012, 08:19 PM

SN is the current spec (effective october 2011). I'd go with the s* spec oil called for in the manual (but NOT old oil that's been sitting on the shelf for that many years), motorcycle oil, or the rotella T6. the newer specs use less and less zinc, phosphorus, and other stuff that help reduce damage in no/low oil situations (startup) but damage O2 sensors and catalysts when cars start burning oil.

using the wrong viscosity (30 wt) oil won't cause the clutch to slip, it'll cause the oil pressure to be way too high at first, then a hair low when warm. (the 30 means the base stock is thinner than a 40 but the 10 means it's a LOT thinner when cold: honey vs. molassis)

oil with the wrong additives will cause the clutch to slip.

out of curiosity and maybe to help convince you...why did you use straight 30 weight oil?

TheDerp · 07-19-2012, 09:35 PM

Manufacturer specs are the best way to go. I once used the same 10w-40, same brand, but accidentally got semi- or full-synth (can't remember which), instead of conventional, and has some serious clutch slip issues.

06-24-2012, 07:01 PM	#1
86redrebel Verified Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: roseville, ca Posts: 56	best oil for a bike I just changed the oil on my 250 rebel, i know it says use 10w-40 non detergent oil, but i used sae30 instead. has anyone had a problem? am i gonna fry my clutch? leave it for a 1000 miles till next change or drain it out and go with 10w40? what do you think?

06-24-2012, 07:05 PM	#2
Dodsfall Administrator Join Date: May 2008 Location: Illinois, USA Posts: 15,927	I don't think you will fry the clutch. Personally, I would change it out for the proper grade. The few bucks and few minutes of work to change it will be worth the piece of mind knowing it's been done right. __________________ 2008 XL1200R To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

06-25-2012, 07:58 PM	#4
markk53 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Delaware, Ohio Posts: 3,232	There is a reason they recommend a multi-grade. Part of it is the nature of the oil viscosity at temperatures. Another is that straight grade oil seldom has the same additive packages in the blend. For the amount of oil and the cost, I'd dump it and put in some 10w-40. Personally I'd use motorcycle grade oil, just because there are additives in the oil that aren't legal for automobile oil and it is specifically blended to work with the clutch and gear box. But that's just my way of thinking. __________________ KLX650C, Zephyr 550 SR500, Bultaco Sherpa T

06-29-2012, 08:14 AM	#7
punisher Banned Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: austin texas usa 78745 Posts: 16	Oil is oil but engines have differant needs give it what it needs. Last edited by Dodsfall; 06-29-2012 at 10:11 AM..

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06-24-2012, 07:06 PM	#3
86redrebel Verified Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: roseville, ca Posts: 56	i was kind of thinking the same, but hoping someone would say they used it before and not to worry. lol. thanks

06-26-2012, 11:49 AM	#5
Squisher Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Franklin, IN Posts: 238	Typical automotive (especially those labeled "energy saving") are not appropriate at all for a motorcycle with a wet clutch (as in the vast majority of 'em). Look for conforming to JASO type standards -- they will be more properly formulated for shared engine/gearbox duty and a wet clutch.

06-26-2012, 12:37 PM	#6
Tankhead Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Roswell, NM Posts: 479	I use, like a lot of other riders of the same model as mine, use Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 full synthetic and motorcycle approved. It had a great analysis from Blackstone labs, I think its called, after almost 3K miles of use. $20/gal at WalMart.

06-30-2012, 05:18 PM	#8
Gandalf If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Indy Posts: 379	I always shell out the extra bucks for Lucas oil motorcycle oil (full synthetic for newer bikes, semi synthetic for older bikes.) I think it's more than worth it for the peace of mind. Also make sure you're using a good filter - running the best oil with a crap filter kinda defeats the point. I'm partial to the K&N's myself, due to the nut on the back.

06-30-2012, 11:40 PM	#9
smooth1 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Certainly not the Emerald City Posts: 453	Use what the manufacturer specifies. I do it because I figure I'm not smarter than the engineers who designed my bike-just sayin

07-06-2012, 11:07 PM	#10
bglaze Verified Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 28	Good thread. Just bought my first Rebel 250, and I have learned a lot here.

07-10-2012, 09:21 PM	#11
Kiwi Steve Master At Arms Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Bay of Plenty, New Zealand Posts: 184	Can't understand why they call for a "10w-40 non detergent oil". Engine oils need detergent to keep the engine clean, especially the ring belt area and cyclinder bore. In fact, I wouldn't know where you'd find a non-detergent engine oil. I worked for 20+ years in an international oil company, the last 8 of those in their lubricants technical centre. Use an oil which is marked on the bottle API S*/MA SAE 10W-40, where the star is the highest letter you can find - maybe SJ, SL or SM. This is designed to have the frictional characteristics that your transmission/clutch require and will give your engine the maximum protection against wear and deposits.

07-12-2012, 08:19 PM	#12
kamesama980 Verified Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Columbus, IN Posts: 18	SN is the current spec (effective october 2011). I'd go with the s* spec oil called for in the manual (but NOT old oil that's been sitting on the shelf for that many years), motorcycle oil, or the rotella T6. the newer specs use less and less zinc, phosphorus, and other stuff that help reduce damage in no/low oil situations (startup) but damage O2 sensors and catalysts when cars start burning oil. using the wrong viscosity (30 wt) oil won't cause the clutch to slip, it'll cause the oil pressure to be way too high at first, then a hair low when warm. (the 30 means the base stock is thinner than a 40 but the 10 means it's a LOT thinner when cold: honey vs. molassis) oil with the wrong additives will cause the clutch to slip. out of curiosity and maybe to help convince you...why did you use straight 30 weight oil?

07-19-2012, 09:35 PM	#13
TheDerp Verified Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: NE TN Posts: 25	Manufacturer specs are the best way to go. I once used the same 10w-40, same brand, but accidentally got semi- or full-synth (can't remember which), instead of conventional, and has some serious clutch slip issues.