Reliability of '70 - '80s bikes??

[mspa]

I'm getting back into biking after many years away. Taking my MSF test on Sunday, and I'm really getting excited about getting a bike

I've got a budget of $3000 or less to find a reliable and fun bike for part-time commuting (25 mile r/t). I was looking at japanese bikes in the 550cc - 750cc range, since there is a healthy selection locally, that have been recently tuned up, with new rubber, etc. — basically ready to roll. However, I've always liked BMW bikes, but figured I couldn't afford to buy one, let alone maintain one.

So started doing some reading and checking out a variety of bikes on YouTube. This is a great way to see and hear different bikes and get a sense of what each is about. From watching these, I get the impression the older BMW's might be right up my alley. They seem to accelerate smoother than the japanese bikes and more refined.

[ SIDENOTE: I grew up on a Suzuki TS100 in Texas. So 60% of my experience is in the sticks, and I've had my fill of wild and crazy driving. I don't need a screamin fast bike to scare the you-know-what out of me. I'm 50, feel like I'm 40, and still require a bike I can be passionate about and enjoy owning. I don't need to get speeding tickets, but I'd like the power when I need it. And I don't need another money pit. ]

For the sake of discussion, here are two classic bikes that have my attention are:

1980 R80 (73k miles, well maintained, same owner for last 19 years) $2750
1976 R90/6 $2800

and a newer style that I still like and has the storage I could use:

1986 K75C (40k miles) $2000 . . . wondering why it's so cheap since it looks nice.

Realistically, all of these could sell before I finish building up my bank account (budget), but I've noticed similar models coming up almost weekly.

I'd love to know what to focus on or stay away from. Is this even the right type of bike for me?

I haven't emotionally invested myself to the point that if the general consensus is that that I can't really afford to take a chance on one of these older BMW's, then I'm willing to put my focus back on the japanese bikes. I do realize that as long as I do my best to find a clean bike in good mechanical condition, I would expect to enjoy it. And it's not like I won't be able to buy another bike in a few years.

[markk53]

I don't think the BMW K models are as popular as the boxers. The 75 was a triple, sounded good and was a great bike... but not a boxer. It could be a great buy.

If you want to maximize your money, find a bike that is still being ridden, runs out well, and the seller will let you take it to a dealer/mechanic for the quick once over to see what is needed.

Don't buy one of those "it ran fine when I parked it" bikes unless it runs fine now.

I'd take a real close look and also do the research on the 86 K75. Find out if there are things that are known to go bad or if all is good. I'd always understood it was a nicer ride than the K100. The performance wasn't on par with the better running Japanese bikes, but they weren't a slouch. If by some chance it has the side cases and a windshield, that's a good thing for sure. The older twins can have final drive or gear box issues. My brother has gotten into that with his 78 R100RS Motorsport, gear box issues have parked him for quite a while now.

One Japanese bike from the 80s that can be excellent if you find one in good condition and running well are the 650-700 Nighthawk series. They had hydraulic valve adjusters and shaft final drive. They were great rides, I sold and rode them. The 700 S has a great seat on it and excellent performance.

There are also the 90s-2000 range Honda Nighthawk 750s that ran chain drive but had the hydraulic valve adjusters too. Those can be found occasionally for $2000-3000 in good shape.

Another that can be found are the Kawasaki Concours 1000s starting in 86 and going past 2006. I've heard of some of them going for $2500 and they have the side bags and fairing already there along with shaft final drive. Only issue I've heard of (mostly because I have the solution) were when cam chain tensioners quit working, they'd get really noisy in the cam drive, but that's a $30 fix. The Concours was a nose to nose competitor with the old boxers.

If you like sport tourers with a bit more sport, watch for the 90s Interceptors with the single side swingarms, great engines with the gear driven cams.

Just don't buy anything that "just needs..." Get a runner and have it checked out before finalizing the sale.

[mspa]

Thanks for the comments markk53. I need to find who does inspections around here. That's a great idea.

One thing I should have mentioned is my preference is to find a traditional style classic. The K model is more similar to the Nighthawk, which I have thought of. And to be honest, the only reason I was drawn to it was the muscular stance. I don't know if that makes sense. But I will admit the boxers on the R models are a big draw.

As for inspections, I'll contact the local BMW motorcycle dealer and a private shop or two and see what's the best option.

[Offcenter]

Let me comment on the R90/6.
I bought my R90 new in 1974 for the princely sum of $2995.
It turned out to be one of the best purchases I ever made.
Other than normal maintenance, the bike required almost
NOTHING in 172,000 miles.
If I was in the market for a bike and a nice one was
available, I'd waste no time in grabbing it.

Just my two cents worth.

George in Jersey

[mspa]

Yesterday, I talked to the shop owner at a local bike shop where I bought my boots. They service all bikes there. I told him what I'm looking for in a bike, and some of the bikes that were appealing to me. For my budget of $3k or less, he suggested the R models, assuming they have been maintained. Then he suggested the Nighthawk for it's low maintenance.

Frankly, I'm drawn to the R80 and R90/6 that I've seen. The R80 just dropped $300, which makes it even more worth looking at to me. I just have to figure out (quickly) if I can spring with the cash.

But I appreciate the comment. It's always nice to hear of someone he didn't regret buying a bike, or one that later regretted ever selling it.

[markk53]

If you go with the older boxers you better know what you're looking at. The driveline splines need to have been greased in such a fashion to keep them from rusting and stripping off. I am surprised it doesn't happen on Japanese shaft drive bikes more often. I guarantee it does happen on the ATV wheel hub splines though.

I'd still be taking a real close look at that K75. They had virtually perfect sizing for the average rider. They looked good.

I'd spend some time bending the BMW shop guys' ears before taking a dive.

[mspa]

Good points. I have at least two different shops I can talk to . . . that would be where I'd take any bike I get.

The K75 is gone. Didn't last long. A few more R-series popped up, a few restored, but over my budget.

[mspa]

Okay, a little excitement going here, maybe too much . . . another bike just came to my attention. I hadn't checked into it since it was a "call, don't email" post with no picture. Turns out it's a retired guy from Austria who knows the guy that designed the 1985 BMW K100LT that he is selling. The bike sounds to be in perfect shape with fairing, saddlebags and pod. Extra spare parts, BMW helmet, leather jacket (my size), manuals, in perfect running shape and 40k miles for $2500. Oh, no ABS.

I'm waiting for photos, but I know it's blue. Personally, I'd probably take the fairing off since I'm not really into touring bikes. But from what I've read about these flying bricks, and the price, and just from talking to the guy I have that gut feeling that this is a bike to seriously consider. It's first to show up with cash and a guy says he's coming this Saturday. I can go Friday morning . . .

Then there is the 1980 R80 that I like the looks of and it has 74k miles with the same owner for 19 years. I talked to him on the phone. He lives far out, but is willing to drive the bike in for me to check out, and if I like, will run it up to the shop for a safety inspection ($100 for me) same day. This has some imperfections, but has manuals, trickle charger (for winter) and other stuff. Same price.

I'm torn. Part of me wants the boxer, but since I don't have a garage to keep it in, all work will be done on my covered back porch. I have the tools, so that's no big deal. But with half the miles and all the storage containers the K100LT seems like it's a smarter buy. One downside is it doesn't have the feel/sound of the R80, or the vintage cool factor.

In the end, my lovely wife has told me that even though she thinks both are ugly, I should buy what I want. If something goes wrong, she don't want to hear about it.

Is the newer bike a better deal? Anything else I should consider? I know I can always wait around for other bikes to show up, but I also know that eventually you buy what "moves you" emotionally. I want a bike I can love owning and driving.

One other factor. I'm 5'10" and 160, and the K100LT is 535 lbs, and the R80 is 474 lbs. The seller tells me he thinks it feels lighter than it should and doesn't think I'll have a problem.

[Dodsfall]

Let him keep the old helmet or use it for a decoration if you go with that one. It's a bad idea to use a used helmet. (You don't know where it's been or if it has been dropped, rendering it useless)

[mspa]

Understood. Good point.

Since it is not a full face, I'd rather get a new helmet. The price still works for my budget.

[flipshide]

My wife's '85 K100RT has been a great ride so far. I ride a '94 K75S and I like its agility compared to her bike.

[mspa]

I have seen some mid/late 80's K bikes that look nice, but I've grown attached to getting the older boxer style airheads.

Well, I'm heading to the other half of the state tomorrow to check out a 1978 BMW R100S in what appears to be excellent shape. The only work needed is to replace the front tire in the near future. A new tire comes with the deal.

I'll report back.

[mspa]

The first phase of the intro journey comes to a rest . . . as I'm about to hit the sack.

I bought a 1978 R100S today and drove it from some really hot upper 90's weather in eastern WA to Seattle. I really like this bike. It's up to date on all work . . . including new clutch, splines lubed, basically ready to rock and roll. I rocked today and thank God, no rolling off the road

I'll post a separate thread on the bike since I may have some questions that make sense in a sep. thread. But here's a few pics since every good thread has at least one. These aren't great since they are from my phone.

[khenning]

I ride a 1981 R100RS and I love it. So reliable for a 30 year old bike and to me you can't beat the looks. I picked mine up for right around $3k. I don't regret it one bit.

[kevinheap]

I got a 1990 K75S and I have only put about 20 miles on it so far but I think I am going to like it. I wanted to post about how long you should warm them up but I need three posts before I start a thread. I am new in Colorado, 57, male and jazzed to be on a bike again. Thanks

[mspa]

I know the warm up procedure on mine slows things down and before I got a vintage bike, I had no clue I would have to do this. But overall, it's not that much longer and now that I have it in my routine, it's no big deal. The trickiest part is really making sure I choke the correct amount so I start within a few cranks.

On my 1978 R100S, in normal weather, I put the choke to half, no throttle and start. Some times, I can let it idle a little with the choke on, which is better to get the gas to the carbs that way as opposed to with the throttle (so I am told). I pull off the choke while feathering the throttle to keep the idle rpm steady. I feather the throttle as necessary to keep in the 1400 - 1700 rpm range with my hand on the head, by the engine block. Once the head base is warm, I shut the bike off and go get my jacket, helmet and gloves on. I already had my boots on. So give it a few minutes to transfer the heat from the heads to the block. I am told this helps to keep the seal from leaking.

I find that sometimes I have to crank as many as 7 times before the engine catches. Sometimes only one. I have adjusted the throttle cables and idle adjustment valves, but it's possible I could dial in a little better to sync them. Part of it could simply be climate related, although the weather has been steady over the last week, and my startup results have varied.

I also only use the kick stand for short parking periods. Since the valves have no seals, I am told gas can run into the left head and smoke on start up. So I get my daily exercise with the center stand.

[kevinheap]

Thanks for the great feedback. You could just let it idle for 5-10 min if you wanted to I suppose, that should not cause a problem I would think. Now if I am not hijacking the post I hear a sound coming from the rear that only happens when I am in gear and accelerating, it is like a brake drum sound, hard metal, hard to describe. Could this be my spline needing lube, do you get a warning when the splines need lube as this happens alot on these bikes?

Thanks again. I got it out and up to 80 on the highway today, power is decent, I wish the power band was at lower rpm but I think that is rare on motorcycles.

[mspa]

Hi Kevin, wish I could offer some valuable info on that sound. I'd look around for threads on splines and you're bound to run across one that mentions warning signs.

[spudbike]

It only has 93K on it and runs strong. I had a 96 air head and it was easyer to service than the K-bike. Just reading how to set the valves made me shiver. I spent a good part of 3 days doing it. That was the first time. I can do it in 8 hr now but it's still a PITA.
But she a good old gal and still sexy on twisties.

[Offcenter]

Waaay back in 1974 I bought a new R90/6.
Still have it. 172,000 absolutely reliable miles.
Easy to service. You can take most of the bike
apart with the tool kit that comes under the seat.
Best $3000 I ever spent.

[87r100]

nice awesome bike

[ProDigit]

Funky!
Though I'm not for the style, I do can relate to having a shiny baby right there, one that's both cheap, reliable, and comfy!

[andrew.box]

That's a classic, good looking bike. Just got a 2001 f650gs but I have always like the air cooled twins.

[kevinheap]

What has fixed my tough downshifting is to give the throttle a little goose before the downshift if I am not winding down to a stop.