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Is it best to let my motorcycle warm up before I ride?

45K views 66 replies 34 participants last post by  Porky 
#1 · (Edited)
According to article HERE it is OK to just start your car and drive right away because its injector and it knows how much fuel to add.

So what about motorcycle with injector? Is it the same?

Just to add. Lets talk about reasonable 40F-60F temperatures. Nothing North Pole extreme.
 
#28 ·
This reminds me of how often you are supposed to change the oil versus how often the mechanic says you need to change the oil. I had a VW Jetta that said to change the oil every 7,500 miles. My friend who is a mechanic about threw a fit when I showed it to him in the manual. When I mentioned it at the dealership they said the 3,000 miles thing is 1960's information that some people just won't let go of.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Let's face it, the more often you can afford to change your oil the better, period. It's absolutely impossible to change it too often so I say err on the safe side. The synthetic oils definately break down slower but it's relatively cheap now so I say change it anyways. Engine failure is never cheap, and since our bikes also use the same oil for the tranny it's even more important.

I realize this may not be the enviromentally politically correct thing to do, but if the used oil isn't as broken down we can use it in our lawn mowers, and recycling is just that much more feasable.
 
#31 ·
I wasn't warming mine up much initially, but just happened to overhear Yamaha's service rep tell a customer that you have to warm it up a couple of minutes to get the oil pressure up.

I usually start it, and by the time I've got my helmet, glasses, and gloves on, and the garage buttoned up, I can get on and ride. And by then, I don't need the choke.

Btw, my manual says use the full choke for 7 seconds (if I remember right), then go to half choke. When I get on the bike, I'm usually able to completely shut down the choke.
 
#36 ·
At least 2 minutes for my 2010 ninja 250R and for all my cars. In the winter, my cars have to sit for @ least 10 mins before i take off...
If you're driving any car made after 1990 then waiting TEN MINUTES before you drive it is doing nothing but putting holes in the ozone.

Seriously there is absolutely no need to wait this long. In fact, it is suboptimal.
 
#34 ·
I tend to just let it idle/warm up while I'm putting on my jacket, helmet, and gloves. Then I'm usually off. If its a cold engine I use some choke until it idles well with the choke off. Part of the reason I do that is because my choke is not in a easily accessible area while riding. On the vstar 650 its under the seat on the left side. If it was on the handlebars, I wouldn't wait until my bike is idling well without the choke before I take off. I'd ride it with some choke until its warm.
 
#35 ·
Contrary to popular belief the danger from running the oil too long isn't from metal paticles in the oil (the oil pan has a magnet installed for this purpose) it's carbon deposits. Carbon is what diamonds are constructed from and the individual particles are more abrasive than sandpaper. Since the carbon is not iron based the magnet will not attract these and will stay suspended in the oil. Some filters are better at removing these particles, but they very greatly in size and some will always pass through. The acid build up is another issue entirely, but this problem will also be addressed with frequent changes.

In case you are wondering about my expertise on this issue, I spent a good portion of my life as a machinist manufacturing jet turbine engines for Pratt and Whitney, heat treating air hardened tool steels, and just basic metalurgy. We used many different types of lubricants (some even water based) for cutting and other purposes. We even used some as a dialetric for Electro-discharge machining with carbon graphite as an electrode so this was a major concern. And of all the different exotic metals we worked with, machining the graphite was the most abrasive materials to work with.

I've already commented on the warm up period, but from what I'm reading here on this thread there seems to be two schools of thought. This is a very provocative issue and apparently of great interest to all. I've owned quite a few vehicles in my life and driven many past the 250,000 mile mark, one over 400,000. I've never been one to immediately drive off after starting, but I've also never waited for any prolonged amount of time either (usually about 20-30 seconds). I'm not really sure if this relates directly to bikes but I just like to give the oil pump enough time to lubricate the overhead cams on my high performance vehicles before creating higher rpm's. Just me.
 
#38 ·
Contrary to popular belief the danger from running the oil too long isn't from metal paticles in the oil (the oil pan has a magnet installed for this purpose) it's carbon deposits. Carbon is what diamonds are constructed from and the individual particles are more abrasive than sandpaper. Since the carbon is not iron based the magnet will not attract these and will stay suspended in the oil. Some filters are better at removing these particles, but they very greatly in size and some will always pass through. The acid build up is another issue entirely, but this problem will also be addressed with frequent changes.

I've never been one to immediately drive off after starting, but I've also never waited for any prolonged amount of time either (usually about 20-30 seconds). I'm not really sure if this relates directly to bikes but I just like to give the oil pump enough time to lubricate the overhead cams on my high performance vehicles before creating higher rpm's. Just me.
I guess I generalized a little on stating “metal Particles” as this is usually more of a concern with new motors more than “carbon”, but you are correct in this analogy. Good point though you brought up about carbon....
But bike oil has additional requirements as it will not only lubricate and clean the engine of contamination but the transmission and clutch particles as well and all of this will need to be captured by either the filter or as you stated the magnetic drain plug. But transmission / clutch will shed more than the engine IMHO...
Anyway, without getting into a debate about all of this I think we all believe that using the correct oil and having regular maintenance is the way to go...

With all things considered there are basically only 2 factors effecting the time to start riding from cold start, “Lubrication of the engine” and “ride ability” of your bike...
And if all that is adhered to, well to me 20-30sec wait is basically considered riding off after starting, as usually just as you start your engine, most will do a few quick checks, like is the garage door closed behind you, your rear view mirrors are adjusted etc then start to ride, well I guess 20 second would have passed...
Bottom line is, if you’re happy with the cold start procedure you’re doing now and it works for you, just keep doing it as you’re the one that’s got to be happy about it... :D.

C.Ya...
Wally...:thumbsup:
 
#39 ·
Well, let me say my go forthwith is actually about 20 or 30 seconds. I may put on my other glove, if not already on, look both ways, put hands on bars, check all gauges, then, with caution, ride off.
If you want a car to warm up for the heater to work, drive it. It heats up faster and more efficiently that way.
dc
 
#40 ·
Guys.. in the winter time in some states, when you start your car the oil is so thick that you could stick a butter knife in it and it would stand straight up and stay there. Obviously your gunna need to let it warm up longer when its 20 below outside.

X2 on changing your oil more often cant hurt anything. I wouldnt go over 3 grand on anything I own, and I dont go over 2 grand on my bikes.

As for warming up sitting there... High idle on my ZX6R is 2 grand, but riding it you have to take off at 3 grand and never drop below that.. so obviously sitting and idling is easier on it not to mention there being less load put on the engine.

As for letting a bike sit and idle too long once its warmed up being bad for it thats true. Even liquid cooled bikes rely on air passing over the radiator from riding the bike to keep the engine cool, and most fans on bikes cant push enough air through the radiator to keep the temp where they should be on a hot day... "safe" ranges maybee, but usually not where its suppose to be. Air cooled bikes can actually have the engines damaged by sitting and idling to long... if you ever have to sit and wait for a train or something on a bike like that, your better off to just shut it off, and on a liquid cooled one with a gauge, keep an eye on the gauge if you leave it run.

I see people leave Harleys sitting in a driveway (after riding it there) idling at a rediculousley low rpm (just enough for it to run) for long periods of time... if they only knew that their bike was overheating, and the fact that a 600rpm might sound cool, it tears the **** out of the engine over time.
 
#41 ·
Oh well I guees the 300,000 miles I got on my old for taurus, and the 105,000 miles I got on my old Honda CB 900 custom was wrong then. I always warmed them up from one to two minutes. In Idhao when the temps were 30 below zero I warmed the taurus up for ten minutes. If not, I couldn't see out the window even after scraping.

I will stick with a one to two minute warm up on my Shadow. I need to get at least 70 grand on it before I sell. I know my method works for me anyways.

Comon sense says warm oil and parts work better together. Cold parts and oil just degrade the longevity of said parts. The parts of today are not much better than parts of the 70's. Injection does not warm up parts any faster than caburation. Friction is what friction is. Infact with improved oils, warming actually takes longer. How many race car drivers just start and go? Umm none. Same with Nhra top fuelers. They are hot before the get to the tree. If they were cold, they would not make it twenty feet out of the blocks.
 
#42 ·
How many race car drivers just start and go? Umm none. Same with Nhra top fuelers. They are hot before the get to the tree. If they were cold, they would not make it twenty feet out of the blocks.
Errr... Isn't that why they have a warm up lap before the race begins, when the vehicle does a lap just after it's started and not sitting on the start line idling.
And yes top fuelers do heat there engines, but about 10 seconds after they start them by doing a 7000rpm plus burn out, now that'll get your engine warm real quick, but after the run they do put in a new set of pistons, rings and bearings... :D... This could be a negative to this type of quick engine warming... LOL...

As said earlier, do what makes you happy and what you feel comfortable with as no one here is telling you how or what to do, but everybody is just giving their honest opinions, but there is always an exception to any rule... :thumbsup:

C.Ya...
Wally...
 
#44 ·
The automotive industry is hounded by many government
groups (at least in the USA). The safety regulators are
constantly forcing them to do things like put seat belt interlocks
on the ignition. The environmental regulators are forcing
things like special settings in the fuel injector computer.
(That's why there are so many aftermarket programs available.)

In the same way, what get printed in the manual may have
as much to do with government interference as it does with
reality. The manual may say to shift at certain MPH for each
gear (which gives lousy performance, but gives less emissions).

When it comes to warm up, the environmentalists want
it eliminated to reduce pollution. The safety feds may want
it longer to reduce the chance of control problems (like
sputtering in traffic). If there are any premature wear issues
that the manufacturer has, they must be balanced with
the regulators issues. Often the manufacturers' issues take
a back seat to the regulators'.

These are the reasons I view the manufacturers manuals as
just the starting point. If I find a one minute warmup isn't
enough, I'll go for two. If I know someone who has legitimate
knowledge and experience, I'll follow that person's advice.
(For example; my brother in law is a certified Toyota mechanic,
and knows what makes them go or break. If he says to warm
up my Corrolla, I do it.)

Finally, if warming up, or not warming up was enough of an issue
to cause an engine failure, there must be a design flaw in it.
Any well designed engine would be able to function satisfactorily
under all but the most egregious forms of
stupidity, like running without oil.
 
#45 ·
My biggest reason for warmup in summer is my bike's hesitation to accelerate when it's cold. If I don't give it 3-5 minutes running at high idle (utilizing the choke), I get a hesitation at low rpms that prevents me from pulling away smoothly..and the more throttle I give it, the more it hesitates. After it's warm, the hesitation disappears. I'm not concerned with lubrication when it's at least 80 degrees in my garage. I just don't like the unsafe manner in which my bike behaves when I attempt to pull out onto a frontage road and it refuses to GO. I don't think this is abnormal for a carbed bike, as all mine have done it. Fuel injection is the only cure I know of, unless someone has another idea.
 
#46 ·
I always let it warm up for a minute or so, reason being, to allow the oil to warm up, of course if you don't let it warm up, and you just lazily drive off, nothing happens, but some people don't let the engine warm up and gun it, and that can cause premature wear on the engine...
 
#51 ·
It isn't just the government that wants to breath clean air. It's the people. I remember Los Angeles when I was a child and it was horrible. Far worse than today.
AQMD and the government (of the people, by the people, and for the people) have done a good job of cleaning it up, even tho' there are 5 times more cars here, or more.
I invite anybody who likes to breath, or would like their kids to breath nice polluted air, to pack up and go to Mexico City. And stay one month. You will just about choke to death on the air. And you will be one very happy puppy to come back here, where we try to keep the air clean.
In terms of warming up race cars, we are not driving race cars. We usually are going to work.
dc
 
#55 ·
It isn't just the government that wants to breath clean air. It's the people.

Good point. It's why I haven't pulled the AIS off my bike.

I invite anybody who likes to breath, or would like their kids to breath nice polluted air, to pack up and go to Mexico City. And stay one month.
I spent one week in Mexico City. From the moment I got there, I started choking. Within a day or two, my nose was bleeding from the pollution. Don't think I'll ever go back (no matter how much I like Frida Kahlo!).
 
#53 ·
Well, I'll drop my two cents in...

I have an 09 ZX6R with the temp gauge someone mentioned earlier. When warming up, it shows nothing until it hits 104. Normal operating temp is anywhere from about 155 to 185, depending on the ambient temp outside. On really hot summer days it can crest 215 at stoplights (Fan kicks on at 214 and anything above 248 and you better shut her off to cool down).

All that being said, I generally pull away when it hits about 145 or so. I don't know how much aluminum engines expand and contract when hot or cold, but I know that I want the oil to have reached all the passages and be at the right operating pressure. Haven't timed it but I'd say it takes about 2-3 mins with the current weather (80+ temps during the day). For my car, I warm it up until I see the temp gauge first start to move, then I drive off...also about 2-3 mins. By my rationale, the engine is MOSTLY warm at that point if it is now starting to warm the coolant up to normal levels, so I'm betting most of the internal "metal expansion" is done with and the oil pressure is normal and in the safe zone...
 
#54 ·
Even after warm up, bike can be sputtery in 2nd

Even after I choke for 30-60 seconds (enough to get gear on) I notice that I don't have as immediate response in 2nd gear as I like, and I try to stay in 1st for longer than I might otherwise to fully warm up the engine.
 
#56 ·
Sweet, no more letting my bike warm up! Haha, I knew it was bad for my car, and I usually run my truck till it is warm (inside, who cares about the engine) but I always idled my bike till I saw the temp pop up instead of it saying "LOW" for engine temp.

Good to know! The only shift points I semi follow from the manual are the downshift points, and usually only when I am holding the clutch in.
 
#59 ·
Dude you should seriousley be able to tell when to shift during normal riding withought a tach just using your ears LOL..

THe onyl time I even think about the actual RPM im shifting at on my ZX6R is when Im taking off like a bat out of hell and then im just waiting for the shift light... Normal riding you should just intuitively know.

Who seriousley times how long they let their bike warm up? You dont sit there starting at your wrist watch, you just either wait for the bike to idle like it does when its warm or on newer bikes you just wait fir the "im cold dont go yet" signal on the cluster goes away. (temp gauge).

Bikes warm up faster then cars (for the most part) the minut or 2 it takes to put your **** on is usually enough... and if its not, your gunna be able to tell.
 
#61 ·
I'm confused (easily done!). I can't tell who is responding to whose post anymore. But anyway, I'm not having a problem shifting or warming up. And I'm not the least tempted to get a tach. But sometimes I do forget when putting around town, and only at certain speeds, if I'm in 4th or 5th.

The V Star seems to have a pretty torquey motor. I say that because I've never actually felt it lug down. Is this typical of V-twins?
 
#62 ·
My impression has always been that warming up a vehicle is like an athlete warming up and stretching before a game or race.

You're about to make room-temp metal pistons and rings go from zero to X-thousands RPMs in a few seconds flat...

I'm thinking it can't hurt to give them a short time to get lubed up and warmed up before asking them to perform.

That's probably true in other situations as well... lol
 
#64 ·
This may be true if there is no contamination of the oil, and IMHO this mileage between oil changes should only be considered on a motor that has gone way past its break in procedure and this would be around the 10-12k mile mark. As during this time there are still a lot of loose metal particles that end up in the oil during the break-in period.
It is very obvious you are a very knowledgeable person but I must disagree with you one this one issue. Why do we have a filter, to trap contaminates and they do a pretty good job of it. We run oil analysis on all our big engines and we see the same contaminates at 100k as we do at 5, 10, or 20k. We change oil at 7500 on the gas engines and 10,000 on the diesel engines. The oil is not contaminated at these mileages and the detergents are still working well. The oil analysis gives us a very good picture of what is happening internally. The higher the mileage on the engine the greater the metal contamination is due to wear. I would be more inclined to reduce the frequency of oil changes on older engines than I would new ones.
 
#67 ·
As long as we're mentioning smog----Funny that no regulatory agencies say a thing about LAX, Hawthorne airport, Burbank airport, John Wayne airport etc etc. Thousand of planes burning JP4 and filling the skies with junk.

Lets not forget the real hippocrites like Nancy Polosi who flies mostly by herself from DC to CA almost daily, in a jumbo-jet. Al Bore does the same and Osama Bin Hussein Obama hasn't been in DC long enough to do any substantial work for this country---that's right, he's cruisin the Hoods in his AF1!



Hank Williams Jr said it all in one of his songs: "Ya'll want us to turn down our thermostats, when you're all runnin around in jets and cadillacs."

I'm a CA person- born there and my offices were in the financial area of Los Angeles for many years.

Sam:D
 
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