From what I've read, the Suzuki Savage is known to have this issue. Mine does as well, as its getting progressively louder all the time, to the point where its rather embarrassing to ride it.
Is there any solution to this? Or a way to dampen the sound?
Have you tried to drop the needle in the carb one notch?
(It will run leaner) Or, install a smaller main jet? Or, both?
Make certain to keep your air filter clean and a clean spark plug.
I'm kinda new to this thing so, If you wouldn't mind explaining the needle/caborator thing to me. Also the main jet thing as well. ^_^ Sorry for being such a newbie.
On the bottom of your carb lies the main jet. The jet needle, goes through the pilot jet and into the main jet. If you lower the needle, it sits lower in the main jet and allows less fuel out.
Not sure of your model year but, you can find a picture of the carb parts here: http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-motorcycle-gz250k2-2002/o/m6285
I would clean/replace your air filter first. If that does not solve the problem, then start looking at the carbs.
Before messing with the jets, clips, and mixture screws, which can be sort of a biker's Bermuda Triangle, first check for vacuum leaks. If you have a vacuum leak, adjusting things in the carb will only band-aid the symptoms without treating the real problem.
Once you're sure there are no vacuum leaks, then you can start looking at the carb internals. Chances are, your pilot jet passages are partially clogged with something like gummed gas (did the bike sit for several weeks?), rust, or other debris (you do have a fuel filter installed, right?). So before doing any kind of adjustment, the first thing to do is clean and blow out all of the fuel passages in the carb. You'll want to screw IN the pilot screws to the bottom, counting the turns, before removing them so you can restore them to EXACTLY the same setting during reassembly. Again, you need to make sure everything is clean before making adjustments, or you are only masking the problem temporarily.
Then, if it still backfires even though you have cleared out ALL of the tiny little fuel passages, then you can start playing with adjustments. However, this is something very difficult for a carb newb to get right. You might consider taking it to someone that has the special carb tools and experience at that point.
^ Good point Tyler! Check the O-ring at the manifold to the cylinder head.
An easy thing to do is to see if you have an automatic cam chain adjuster, and see if it needs adjustment (easy procedure).
If the adjustment is out or the spring is weak, it will allow slack in the chain and change the timing events.. :wink:
So, I've replaced the air filter and spark plug, and looking at the O-ring to the manifold to the cylinder head. It seems someone broke a bolt inside the cylinder head. I've tried using extractors to get it out, but all fail and break. It seems this is the source of the extreme loud noise when idling and also the leak that covers the entire cylinder head.
1. holds the carb holder to the cylinder head intake?
2. holds the valve cover onto the cylinder head?
3. holds the cylinder head onto the engine block?
Countersink a dent in the center of the broken bolt/stud.
Douse it with penetrating oil (the broken part)
Purchase a couple of "left-hand" drill bits that will fit inside of the broken part.
Heat the area AROUND the broken part with a propane or Map gas torch. (Not to the point of injuring the head)
Drill the offending part out. ( Start with the smaller of the two bits.)
I've tried that and they kinda break. My brother says that the bolt that was put in there by god knows who was a different thread and was forced in there until the head broke off. But I haven't tried heating the area around the broken part. I'll try that and get back to you.
Thanks for the help, hopefully nothing happens, if so, I'll be back.
The bolt may be the correct thread. Here's the thing, though: bolts are usually steel; cylinder heads are usually aluminum. Not only do these metals have different rates of expansion (with temperature), they tend to galvanically corrode into each other. These properties combine to really make those buggers stick. It's actually fairly common for bolts in the cylinder head (which gets really hot) to kind of weld themselves into place. If/when you do get that bolt replaced, the use of some anti-seize will make life more pleasant the next time it has to come off.
As for the oil leak... maybe someone else can weigh in on this... but it kind of looks like it's originating from the head gasket. It's common for the valve cover gasket to leak but that area seems pretty dry. The head gasket, unfortunately, is a pretty big deal to replace (engine probably has to come off the bike). If compression is ok and you can live with the oil leak though, you could probably ride it like that for some time.
Hello everyone,I am new to the Forum, I have a vs 800 and I am having a major problem .I would be very greatfull if anyone can help.The bike starts ok but sounds as if it is running on one pot .the front pot and carb seems to be the one with the problem,I have stripped the carb and soaked it for 24 hours in cleaning fluid ,put it back and it still sounds like a bag of nails ,its backfires through the exaust when increasing the revs. it has new plugs,i have checked all wireing,cleaned out the tank .now i have ordered two new coil ignighters .please any suggestions ??
If the carbs are clean, then a vacuum leak can cause those symptoms as well. Old rubber components tend to become brittle and crack and then you get vacuum leaks. Check the throttle shaft seals and carb holders.
Get a new exhaust gasket to replace that mess of Hi-temp RTV that is all over your exhaust port.
The O-ring from the intake manifold to the cylinder head tends to dry out, get brittle and crack. Try to replace it as well. :wink:
It appears I am having the exact same problem as crimsonwolfe and I just finished a painfully difficult sidecar job on it. Only mine just started spitting out black smoke today.
Hello,I have taken the Carb appart again and this time I have found a broken screw at the top of the needle Jet there is a brass hex screw cap that has broken off ,and I can not get the needle jet out of the Carb body,does any one have any suggestions,my bike is the VS 800 intruder.
I am just finishing up my savage as I had the similar problem of backfiring. Mine was the worse when I would shut it off and 2 second later a huge band after it had warmed up. Spark plug would always faul up after it would sit for more tham few days and would not start. Really black. After cleaning the carb a few times with no change the last time I noticed a lot of oil inside the intake manifold where you can see the valves. Seemed that my valve guides where leaking oil slowly down into the intake area. That would then faul the plug as it was almost a spoon full that I seen before putting the carb back on. Anyway after having to pull the motor out and removing the head as it was also leaking like yours I found 2 of the four head bolts to be very loose. Biggest problem was the exhaust valves though which were really ----ed. Not closing all the way because of a lot of carbon buildup. This was (I believe the backfiring problem) I think it was probably started because of the leaking valve guides which caused so much carbon on the exhaust valve area??? Sorry for the long story but that is where my carb cleaning led me a couple of months ago. Hopefully be running this weekend. Mine is an 86. Age is probably why the valve seals where bad.
Just to inject something here tgarreau if you found that two of your head bolts were loose make sure to get the head re-surfaced and make sure you either lap your valves/seats or have the seats/valves ground at the machine shop if you haven't all ready.. Also let us know what happens when you fire up your rebuilt machine!!!
Ya I had the head rebuilt. New valve guides and seals and re cut the valves. When you mention the lapping of the head that was another thing I did on a precision stone and seen some really unflat areas. It tool a lot of lapping to bring it back to flat. Mostly the head surface.
Thanks for the info. Any ideas where to get a better designed timing chain tensioner for this bike. This one seems very bad.
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