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What is the best method to remove rust in gas tank?

30K views 38 replies 9 participants last post by  HawkII 
#1 ·
I have a 30 yr old Honda cm400 and I want to clean the tank out and remove any rust deposits to avoid anything getting into my carbs & engine. My local Honda dealer referred me to a local welding business that would clean it for around $80. But, after watching a few youtube videos, I realized you can clean the tank out cheaply using some type of gravel or washers/bolts. Can I effectively clean the tank out using gravel (aquarium gravel) or washers? If so, how would i rinse the tank out (water, gas,..)? Also, I saw something about evapo-rust. Would using this be better? I want my tank to stay clean and rust-free as long as possible. Is it necassary to seal the tank and, if so, how do i go about doing it? If anyone can give me some suggestions, it would be greatly appreciated. And, the biggest question: would it be better to just pay the 80 and have a professional do it or is the job a simple one and the 80 a rip-off?
 
#31 ·
I got in touch with my painter dude. He said that the eggshell clear is simply standard clear with an additive to make the finish flat rather than glossy. Additive isn't much.

For flat black- he also said you can go semi-gloss too if that might be what you'd want- you're looking at around $450. That's stripping the tank to bare metal and stripping the old paint off the side covers. Using a good epoxy primer that will be a top notch base and then the base coat and clear coat. And he doesn't skimp out on clear. He put 12 coats of clear on a tank for one of my personal bikes. Blue would be a little more because of the base coat cost, which also depends on the color you want. Base coat prices are all over the place.

Also, this guy uses nothing but top shelf PPG quality stuff. Yes, it's expensive, but it's also the best... cheaper than doing it twice with some budget brand because the product didn't hold up....
 
#32 ·
I did this three-step treatment (rust remover acid, neutralizer, and then coat of Por-15.) It took me most of a Saturday and yes, my arms were very sore. But it worked so well that it was worth it. From the inside it looks like I have a totally new gas tank. I just bought the whole treatment set as a kit at the auto parts store.

My one recommendation would be to make sure the gas cap and the drain (where the petcock is) are sealed up tight so that the chemicals don't leak all over you/your paint job. I took the gasket out of the gas cap too so that wouldn't get ruined just in case. Duct tape worked really well at sealing up the holes but you'll have to change the tape for each step of the process.

Use a good pair of heavy-duty rubber gloves and make sure you wear eye protection. You can definitely do this yourself.

LisaStreet
 
#33 ·
JScustoms, i'm sure it's top quality paint but I don't want to
spend that right now; maybe in future though. When I get a break from
work in the next couple days or next week sometime, I'll give you a call and come get those side covers from
you. I don't have my side covers with me now
but when I get a chance to go look at them, I'll let you know if I need both or just one.
 
#34 ·
I hear ya on the price. If you're looking for cheap and you can spray evenly, WalMart sells black paint and flat clear in a spray can. I've done this before when I wanted to just get something covered and it holds up alright. Have to be careful to not drip gas on it and so on, but it does the job if you just want it to be one color and look decent.

I'm in the shop Mon- Fri 9-5. Call before you stop in case I have to run out for parts or something just to make sure I'm around.
 
#35 ·
Yea, maybe I'll just spray it for now. I bought the bike in rough condition for 300$ so it's not grade A. I just want to get it running correctly andif I decide I like riding it, I may look into upgrading it, etc. I'll give you a call next week about those covers. Thx
 
#36 ·
I cleaned out a rusty toaster tank a few months ago. We put pennies and nickels inside the tank to knock the rust loose--just shake it up--takes some time and elbow grease, but worked well. Then I diluted some acid to attack what was left. After the acid bath, I mixed up a baking soda solution to neutralize any acid left inside the tank. An after thought I had was to use rust inhibitor/converter "after or instead" of the acid and baking soda treatment.
 
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