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Help! Just Bought 1978 Cb400 Hawk

15K views 16 replies 9 participants last post by  erranttraveler 
#1 ·
I just bought a 1978 CB400 T Hawk for $700 yesterday. It has 20,000 miles and runs fine. According to the title, it looks as if only about 500 miles have been put on it since 1993. Little if anything has been done to the bike since it was in storage.

Surprisingly, it ran and I was able to drain the gas, replace it and drive it home (30 miles!). It ran fine. I plan on changing the oil, the filter, and cleaning the air filter today. I'm not that handy so what I can do to the bike is limited by my inexperience and confidence. I plan on brining it to a shop and having them see what it may need.

What I know it needs. It has a Windjammer Quicksilver fairing. Whoever installed it messed up the wiring a bit. Nothing major but the wires need to be jiggled for a second in order for the headlight to work. The horn does not work. All other electrical functions properly.

The kickstart does not engage. Not sure what's going on there, when I kick it there is no resistance.

The oil level seems fine and the color looks normal. Oh, and the gas tank looks okay, but maybe a touch of rust forming.

Basically, what should I expect needs to be done at a minimum?

Carbs cleaned, tune up, seals replaced? What's the standard cost of a tune up? Oh, and what NGK plugs are recommended, type of oil, and oil filter? I've downloaded a Clymer manual and it has some info.

This is my first bike, so any help/suggestions are greatly welcomed. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Regards,

Jesse
 
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#4 ·
I almost bought a 78 CB 400 with that same kickstart problem (kickstart only, no electric starter) and the owner said it was a stripped gear in the kickstarter. If that is something you feel you need to fix, here is the part that was stripped.

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1978-honda-motorcycle-cb400ti/o/m9442
Now, this is for the CB400 T1. You may need a different part if you have another model. The gear in question is labeled 2 in that diagram. I see that it isn't available now.
 
#5 ·
More Hawk questions

Thanks.

Actually, I think that the tires are new. They show no wear and still even have the nibs on them. Maybe someone put them on and then decided to get rid of the bike? I'm not that sure of its history.

I plan on changing the oil tomorrow. What other things should be done when taking these bikes out of storage?

One other thing, it usually needs a little choke to start and then idle. It just needs the choke for 30 seconds or so and then it idles at around 1,500.

Thoughts?

Thanks for any input.
 
#6 ·
if its cold out, a lil choke doesn't hurt. I know mine needs a choke to start it when its 50 degrees or so ouside. ( depending where you're at really ! )
now, if you had to keep the choke on to run/ride the bike, then that'd be something to really look into!
As for the costs for tune-ups n carb cleanings etc., I think it'd be safe to say it depends on what bike / the condition your bike is in, so it does differ. Don't be hesitant to call a few bike mechanics to get a ballpark price on the work you want done on your ride. Just know that once riding season starts, shops get mighty busy ! ( again, depending where you're located! )
 
#8 ·
Vic, now that you mentioned it, my cb750 is also cold-blooded. Bought her last year and this is the first season I'll be riding her.

Just for reference's sake jessek, I took mine to get the carbs cleaned and rejetted and my mechanic charged me about 275 for parts and labor. Took em about a week to get to my bike since they already had a shop full of bikes to work on before the riding season rolls in.
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the info.

That's good to know about starting and the choke. Yeah, it fires right up and then idles nicely after a few revs.

Since I have this Windjammer fairing on it, how tough is it to take it off, get a headlight bucket and set that up? I don't want to take it off and have a nightmare on my hands. Particularly, concerning wiring.
 
#10 ·
For the age of the tires, locate the DOT number, there should be one on each side, and one is likely 4 digits longer. Those extra 4 digits are the date code, and the format is WWYY, where WW is the week, and YY is the year, for tires made in 2000 or later. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11
 
#11 ·
One to use and one to lose.

First things first
A lost key is a good day gone badly. That could have easily been avoided.
Rule #1. One to use and one to lose.
Good practices
1. Get a key code when you purchase your ride and store it in a safe place.
2. If the key code is unavailable take your existing key to your local locksmith and have him decode it, they will be able to give you the key code.
3. Take a picture of it showing the cuts.
 
#12 ·
Hah, funny you mention spare keys.

I went to the Honda dealership here in town after Lowes told me they don't carry Motorcycle keys.

The guy at the dealership said (after looking at parts lists) that they did not make key blanks for my bike, so I would have to get the whole cylinder assembly if I ever lose the key.
 
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