I thought I might as well start a new thread as an "Official Get 'er Running" thread, even though I posted about Hylomar regarding this bike earlier. As I go through things and get everything sorted out I will post it here, just in case there are some other LS650 thumper owners out there who may benefit from the torture I am sure I am about to go through. First, let me say that when working on this bike it is useful to be an octopus with opposable thumbs, as all the clearances are tight and to wiggle stuff in and out often requires one to hold a dozen parts just so.
So far--I pulled the carb and did a thorough cleaning, pulling all jets, clearing their tiny holes with fishing line, putting in a new float valve o-ring and reinstalling the carb. While I was ordering a couple new o-rings for the carb (one spare; always buy one spare) I also ordered tanks mounts which were missing from this bike. Don't expect Suzuki (at least our local dealer didn't) to have anything in stock; you'll wait a week to get your stuff. I am pretty confident that this carb will now function properly as I have had much experience with other CV carbs (see the thread titled "So Close, but Yet So Far" about my travails getting my 42 year old CB350 to run).
I also put in a new air filter (there was none on the bike when I picked it up) changed the oil and installed a new oil filter. I also went out a bought a 18mm spark plug socket (don't bother trying a deep 18mm socket; it won't work) and installed a new plug, properly gapped. Before putting in the plug I put a teaspoon or so of oil in to soak down past the rings as this bike has sat since 2008 and there was zero oil in the top end.
I got two tanks with the bike and chose the less dented and less rusted one which I cleaned with muriatic acid, flushed out with water and immediately followed by denatured alcohol. It is now all clean with bare gray metal inside. I may reline it, but later once the thing has proven to me it can run.
I also discovered the forks were on backward with the rotor on the wrong side, so I put them right.
First big challenge was the petcock. By the way, Suzuki does not sell any parts for this; they require you to buy an entire petcock for about $70. It did not look bad inside but I found a rebuild kit made for other bikes but which fits this one perfectly (an o-ring is included which goes unused for this bike). The part came from Z1 Enterprises and its part number KL18-4344 "Petcock Repair Kit Suzuki". That renewed the inside of the petcock, now to mount it. As I related in the Hylomar thread; I remounted the petcock on the cleaned tank and had bad fuel leaks. I tried anaerobic sealant, which failed. I next tried Hylomar, a highly touted racing sealant, but the leak was still there. I flattened the mating surface with a file, followed by fine sandpaper, where the petcock flange's lozenge-shaped "o-ring" seated; but it still leaked. I once again removed the petcock and this time I saw the tiny pin-holes in the bottom to side flange, right next to the petcock base, which is what fooled me into thinking the petcock was the culprit. A bit of JB Weld cured that leak and a fine film of Hylomar on the petcock base, the mating surface of the tank, and on the bolt threads finally did the job of stopping the leak(s).
Next up was mounting the tank. The tank, just like the carb, has almost no wiggle room for mounting and removal and reinstallation is difficult and you must wiggle and hold your tongue just so to get things to fit on this bike. The space is so much more close around stuff on this bike compared to my CB350, where removing a carb takes me about two minutes (1/2 hour for my first attempt on the LS650). Anyway, I plugged in the instrument lights and put on the speedo cable and remounted the tank. Then hooked up the vacuum and fuel line from the petcock. Next, a new battery went in. Switch on, and the headlight works anyway, and the front turn signals come on but don't blink. I even have a working neutral light.
I hit the start button and whirrrr! the starter turned over. I left the bike for the rest of the day planning to try a real engine start after work, with fuel in the tank. Unfortunately, the whirr was only the starter; the engine was not turning over, as my brother and I discovered when we went to start it.
I pulled the starter and could turn the gear inside the engine through the hole with my finger. I drained the oil and started to pull the left side engine cover. Easy enough, as it has actuall hex head bolts holding it on, instead of those d*mn phillips heads like my CB. Uh oh; one is hidden on the bottom side behind the shifter/footpeg bracket, which is in turn held on with long big bolts that also serve as engine mounts that run across the whole width of the bike, terminating on the right side footpeg bracket. Finally, I removed the shift linkage and was able to get an 8mm wrench in from the front to this bolt and a tiny turn by tiny turn I got the final bolt out. The cover was loose, but the spring loaded kickstand switch is sticking out and keeping me from pulling it off. I can't hold in the switch, take weight off the bracket and pull the cover off by myself. So, this is where I am at; waiting for another helper to hold the bike and switch in, so I can pull the cover off and hopefully see what is going on inside, keeping the starter from engaging the motor. It is not clear from the manual or pictures how exactly this thing clicks in and out. Hopefully, seeing the gearing myself will shed light on this problem. There must be a mechanism that engages and releases the starter, as it cannot be spinning all the time with the motor, but it is a mystery to me--so far.
That's where I am at right now. Once the motor is working, there are myriad little things electrical to work on and multiple missing parts. Obvious future needs are left rear turn signal; front right turn signal as this one, although working, is flapping loosely in its mount; The neatral swith wire is broken and dangling under the bike--new switch I am sure required; mounts for the driver seat are missing; and a front left driver's footpeg is missing. Good thing I got the bike for free.
Cheers,
Mike
The Savage upon arrival in my garage after pickup in Dothan, AL.
So far--I pulled the carb and did a thorough cleaning, pulling all jets, clearing their tiny holes with fishing line, putting in a new float valve o-ring and reinstalling the carb. While I was ordering a couple new o-rings for the carb (one spare; always buy one spare) I also ordered tanks mounts which were missing from this bike. Don't expect Suzuki (at least our local dealer didn't) to have anything in stock; you'll wait a week to get your stuff. I am pretty confident that this carb will now function properly as I have had much experience with other CV carbs (see the thread titled "So Close, but Yet So Far" about my travails getting my 42 year old CB350 to run).
I also put in a new air filter (there was none on the bike when I picked it up) changed the oil and installed a new oil filter. I also went out a bought a 18mm spark plug socket (don't bother trying a deep 18mm socket; it won't work) and installed a new plug, properly gapped. Before putting in the plug I put a teaspoon or so of oil in to soak down past the rings as this bike has sat since 2008 and there was zero oil in the top end.
I got two tanks with the bike and chose the less dented and less rusted one which I cleaned with muriatic acid, flushed out with water and immediately followed by denatured alcohol. It is now all clean with bare gray metal inside. I may reline it, but later once the thing has proven to me it can run.
I also discovered the forks were on backward with the rotor on the wrong side, so I put them right.
First big challenge was the petcock. By the way, Suzuki does not sell any parts for this; they require you to buy an entire petcock for about $70. It did not look bad inside but I found a rebuild kit made for other bikes but which fits this one perfectly (an o-ring is included which goes unused for this bike). The part came from Z1 Enterprises and its part number KL18-4344 "Petcock Repair Kit Suzuki". That renewed the inside of the petcock, now to mount it. As I related in the Hylomar thread; I remounted the petcock on the cleaned tank and had bad fuel leaks. I tried anaerobic sealant, which failed. I next tried Hylomar, a highly touted racing sealant, but the leak was still there. I flattened the mating surface with a file, followed by fine sandpaper, where the petcock flange's lozenge-shaped "o-ring" seated; but it still leaked. I once again removed the petcock and this time I saw the tiny pin-holes in the bottom to side flange, right next to the petcock base, which is what fooled me into thinking the petcock was the culprit. A bit of JB Weld cured that leak and a fine film of Hylomar on the petcock base, the mating surface of the tank, and on the bolt threads finally did the job of stopping the leak(s).
Next up was mounting the tank. The tank, just like the carb, has almost no wiggle room for mounting and removal and reinstallation is difficult and you must wiggle and hold your tongue just so to get things to fit on this bike. The space is so much more close around stuff on this bike compared to my CB350, where removing a carb takes me about two minutes (1/2 hour for my first attempt on the LS650). Anyway, I plugged in the instrument lights and put on the speedo cable and remounted the tank. Then hooked up the vacuum and fuel line from the petcock. Next, a new battery went in. Switch on, and the headlight works anyway, and the front turn signals come on but don't blink. I even have a working neutral light.
I hit the start button and whirrrr! the starter turned over. I left the bike for the rest of the day planning to try a real engine start after work, with fuel in the tank. Unfortunately, the whirr was only the starter; the engine was not turning over, as my brother and I discovered when we went to start it.
I pulled the starter and could turn the gear inside the engine through the hole with my finger. I drained the oil and started to pull the left side engine cover. Easy enough, as it has actuall hex head bolts holding it on, instead of those d*mn phillips heads like my CB. Uh oh; one is hidden on the bottom side behind the shifter/footpeg bracket, which is in turn held on with long big bolts that also serve as engine mounts that run across the whole width of the bike, terminating on the right side footpeg bracket. Finally, I removed the shift linkage and was able to get an 8mm wrench in from the front to this bolt and a tiny turn by tiny turn I got the final bolt out. The cover was loose, but the spring loaded kickstand switch is sticking out and keeping me from pulling it off. I can't hold in the switch, take weight off the bracket and pull the cover off by myself. So, this is where I am at; waiting for another helper to hold the bike and switch in, so I can pull the cover off and hopefully see what is going on inside, keeping the starter from engaging the motor. It is not clear from the manual or pictures how exactly this thing clicks in and out. Hopefully, seeing the gearing myself will shed light on this problem. There must be a mechanism that engages and releases the starter, as it cannot be spinning all the time with the motor, but it is a mystery to me--so far.
That's where I am at right now. Once the motor is working, there are myriad little things electrical to work on and multiple missing parts. Obvious future needs are left rear turn signal; front right turn signal as this one, although working, is flapping loosely in its mount; The neatral swith wire is broken and dangling under the bike--new switch I am sure required; mounts for the driver seat are missing; and a front left driver's footpeg is missing. Good thing I got the bike for free.
Cheers,
Mike
The Savage upon arrival in my garage after pickup in Dothan, AL.