How about just some general maintenance to start things off. After all, Riding Season is upon us.
There are guidelines to follow for putting the babies away for the Winter, but also when bringing them out of storage.
Battery Charged ?
If you didn't use a Battery Tender, be sure your battery has a full charge on it before hitting the starter button. A 1 Volt drop is enough to start causing starter damage.
Change the oil or not ?
Even though you should have stored the bike on fresh oil and filter, it is wise to warm the engine up sufficiently and change before riding. Even though the oil may "seem" OK, there is no way of knowing without Oil Analysis if the TBN of the oil is depleted. TBN is the ability of the oil to neutralize acidity.
Air and Check the Tires.
While the oil is draining, you can inspect the tires for wear or abnormal checking (dry rot), cupping and Proper Inflation. It seems thatif bike tires get to be a couple years old, they start to get hard which effects traction. I know my front tire is about 1.5 yrs old with over 25K on it and it is noticeable that it is getting hard. New Metzler coming soon...
Brake Fluid ?
Brake Fluid both in the brake system and if you have a hydraulic clutch should be bled 1 year and completely flushed the next. After 2 years of not bleeding, you can lose 40% of your braking efficiency and the fluid is usually well below it's Wet Boiling Point. Brake fluid is Hygroscopic. It draws moisture from the air and even right through the brake lines and cylinders. NEVER use or keep open brake fluid. Whatever you don't use, toss in with your dirty oil to recycle.
You cannot tell if brake fluid is contaminated just by looking at it. But, if you can see that it is cloudy or dirty, it is way past time to flush and it is unsafe to operate the vehicle. Do Not Drive until system is totally flushed.
Anti-Freeze for the Liquid Crowd.. 2 years on Standard Anti-Freeze. Extended life versions are available with life spans of 7 years and some may include stop leak right in them that is only activated when it hits the air at the leak
Also, the Liquid Crowd should check any hoses at this time..
Does your bike have any belts such as a timing belt(s)... good rule of thumb would be to at least check them and if they haven't been replaced in 2-3 years, you may want to do it. Better than being stranded and a tow bill.
Rear diff fluid for the Shaft Drives.
I really don't care what the manual says on this one... Most bike diffs only hold 7-12 ounces of fluid and can be changed in minutes... I use to change my shaft bikes every year.. It is downright cheap and even cheaper insurance.
Chains... Almost as hot a topic as oil is how to maintain the chain and sprockets. I see all kinds of chemicals that people want to use to clean their chains... Simple green, Kerosene, WD-40...
A: I only use WD-40 for starting fluid since I found out how hazardous it is and won't even get it on my skin. Simple Green.. Does anyone know for sure (something in writing from the mfg.) that it will not effect the O-Rings in the chain ? Kerosene... sure and it can go in the drain pan with the oil. I think the best and inexpenve way would be Diesel fuel as it will degrease anything and also has lubricity for the O-Rings. After that... Chain Lube made for chains... Most go on in liquid form and turn waxy so you don't get "Sling" on that nice white T Shirt or all over those expensive Leathers.
I am sure I missed something here..