Suzuki GT250
August 7, 2009 by PipeDreams
I am completely new to motorcycles and their maintenance. I’ve got a little extra money, and I’ve wanted to get into bikes for a long time. Not get into bikes like ride a 900cc sport bike around and get a helmet with a fake mohawk and see how fast I can go. I want to get into bikes like buy this Suzuki, learn it inside and out, become confident with riding, enjoy the spring time and summer weather, and become confident in my ability to maintain and keep this pretty bike in tip top shape.
I’ve had my eye on the flat-seated, low power bikes of the 70s. I found this one on craigslist. It’s been sitting for a LONG time, like 5 years, so I don’t even have to tell you it isn’t running. For sale for $300, 7000 miles.
It’s not running . . .
I’m a smart guy, and I’m a problem solver. I’m committed, and I have some mechanical experience. Most of my experience is with cars . . .spark plugs, oil changes, compression checks, exhaust installs, I’ve reinstalled suspensions, I once swapped out turbochargers, yada yada yada. From what I’ve read here, it seems as though for a competent mechanic, getting a bike like this running is just a matter of nailing down the relatively minor problems, as it seems these old 2-strokes have fairly bullet-proof engine components. Am I somewhat right about this?
My question is: Should I go check this bike out? I have a tendency in my desire to learn and have fun to overshoot my capabilities sometimes, and I might need a reality check. How plausible is it that I can get this bike into running shape? I don’t have a guide, a mentor, a trainer. I just have the internet, a good tool set, and a friend who builds his own dune buggies, rebuilds engines, and is in school for automotive technician-ing, but has also no experience with bikes.
Let me have it. Lay into me, crush my dreams if you have to! But don’t doubt that I’ve got the stamina and desire. I just need to know if it is possible, what are the chances that I can get it running?
I got a picture, can’t post it. Looks pretty clean . . .very little rust as I can see, tires still have air in them, looks like all mechanical nuts and bolts would turn freely if given a little "encouragement".
Comments
Kev
Kev
The fact that you've had your heart set on something for a while is a step in the positive direction that you will not let yourself fail in this. Get the bike you want and have some fun fixing it up, and hopefully riding it! Remember, you only have to satisfy and impress yourself (sometimes hard to do) when you start a project. The compliments of others will follow mainly because they didn't have the interest or ability to do something like that themselves...
Now get started!!!
Started with the exhaust pipes, just because it seemed most reasonable, and they were the most dirty. I took a bunch of pictures today, sadly I can not post them. The before and after of the polishes on the exhaust were encouraging. I'm in love with her already, and I still gotta push it around, haha.
Going to spend the next couple weeks cleaning her up and grinding the 33 years of caked grime off of everything, so when I have time to tear into the project of getting her running, everything will be smooth and clean to work around.
I can't stop staring! Haha, thanks for the replies, guys. I'm going to use this thread as a sort of updater on the progress.
Here we go . . .I hooked her up to my car battery last night and got absolutely nothing. No horn, no lights, no starter.
I've never had any electrical experience, and I've done some searching but come up short. Can someone get me started on how to trouble shoot the electrical system? Should I hook it up to the battery again and then begin with a volt-ohm reader, taking it to the different components?
Thanks in advance.
If you don't find any problem the first time through, then switch to the other battery cable and follow that path through the bike as well.
Lights/horn should be fairly easy to track down as they are usually powered up as soon as the key is on. But the starting is a bit more involved as (depending on the bike) it could go through a starter relay, kill switch, clutch switch, etc. With no lights and horn, I'm betting it's something easy to find and as soon as you fix, that the starting system will work as well!
Keep us posted.
Tell us a little about the bike.Does it have a starter or is it just a kick? Have you found a service manual yet? I guess there are no dirty crankcase issues with a 2 stroke. The motor has no frozen pistons I hope?
If you don't find any problem the first time through, then switch to the other battery cable and follow that path through the bike as well.
Lights/horn should be fairly easy to track down as they are usually powered up as soon as the key is on. But the starting is a bit more involved as (depending on the bike) it could go through a starter relay, kill switch, clutch switch, etc. With no lights and horn, I'm betting it's something easy to find and as soon as you fix, that the starting system will work as well!
Keep us posted.
NOPE, no frozen pistons. The kickstart works, and I can hear the throttle open when I twist it and kick start it. I found a parts manual, but no service manual. I'd pay 20 bucks for one in a second, but I can't even find one offered.
No starter, I don't think. I'm still a little new to the bike but I am pretty sure it is just an engine kill switch.
It should be pretty easy to get into the wiring tomorrow. I'll regrease all the connections and go at it with a multi-meter. Hopefully I'll have it narrowed down a bit 24 hours from now. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks again, I really appreciate it. I'd feel a lot more intimidated without this site.
And a before/after on the exhaust polish.
Man I just realized my front yard looks like trash. Good thing we lease,
Last edited by PipeDreams; 04-05-2009 at 11:00 PM.
NOPE, no frozen pistons. The kickstart works, and I can hear the throttle open when I twist it and kick start it. I found a parts manual, but no service manual. I'd pay 20 bucks for one in a second, but I can't even find one offered.
I did have one question. When I turn the blinkers on, there is a little soleniod thing that clicks every time the blinker turns on and off. I don't know if that is it's specific and only purpose, or just one of them. So that's my first question: Is that clicky solenoid solely for operating the blinking action of the turn signals?
Second question: Mine's a little slow, like it's too old to think properly, and kind of falls asleep and stops clicking. Therefore the turn signals just stay on solid. Is that a generic enough part (because all automobiles have turn signals) that I can pick one up from an auto parts store or a junk yard?
Plan of attack: Study for calculus, study for chemistry, study for everything else, then get to doing some real work on the carbs, the fuel system, and ensuring I have spark. I've read about the fuel petcock (the part that seals the fuel tank until engine vacuum starts pulling) being prone to leaking, but mine seems to work fine. In the prime position, I can blow air through it, but not in either of other positions.
So . . .
1) Clean the **** out of everything, including the inside of the gas tank
2) Learn carbs inside (literally) and out. Work up the courage to take 'em apart, and try the several methods for cleaning that I've read about on this site and others
3) Run all new vacuum tubing and fuel lines to avoid leaks and weak vacuum.
4) Change the oil and spark plugs, and check for spark in both cylinders
If I do all these things the right way, and no other problems arise, then I really hope she'll fire, or give me something more than a kerplunk.
How's the plan sound? Any more tips on what I should add to the list?
For the carbs, take them apart one at a time in case you need a reference, and take some pics as you go along.
Sweet bike, cleans up really nice! Looking forward to hearing you have it completely up and running, PipeDreams.
As for the indicators, my old 6V VW had the same problem, which was cured by taking out all the bulbs and applying sandpaper to the contacts, both on the bulb and in the bulb holder.
I've looked at the exploded picture of my carburetor, and it shows that the metal bar that catches the Tang rests at the bottom of the bowl and the float goes onto its slide that way. When I opened them up, however, BOTH of them had the floats flipped upside down, even with the word "UP" upside down at the bottom of the bowl.
My question to verify this, I guess, is: Does the float needle let gas into the float bowl when it is pressed against, or when it isn't pressed against? Or does it even matter? Because when it's pressed against and when it isn't, I can still blow air through the fuel line . . .grrr.
I just don't know what to think because BOTH carbs had the floats oriented this way, and both carbs looked like they haven't been taken off of the motor in ages . . .so I would assume (maybe wrongly) that the engine had been run with the floats on the wrong way? Or maybe it's the right way?
Also possible the needles themselves have grooves worn into them and not sealing. Either way, if you have the carbs opened up it's worth it to just get a set of new needles and o-rings for the seats. That was all I replaced on mine, but there was no wear on the needles. If the needles are badly grooved, might as well replace the seats too as that is what the needles seal against to stop the fuel when the floats rise up.
With the float in the "up" position (if you know what I mean), it seems like its pushing the valve up at all times, so I think it needs to be in the down position. Agree?
The third picture is of the top half of the carbs. It probably isn't normal for one to have that thing, and the other to not, is it?
Ugh . . .I really need a service manual. That would make everything so much easier, and I wouldn't have to post these questions here. Anyway, thanks for the help and let me know what you think.
I would hope that Suzuki would have online support for parts and ordering. Hondas are very cool in that reguard because there is an online microfiche to order parts and you can actually save money doing it online with free shipping to the dealer.
Dans site is a little hard to find things on sometimes, so I hope this guides you to the right spot. When you order carb parts, use OEM only and no aftermarket stuff.
I have a bike like your´s.
I have a lot of information about it, books of maintenance, parts books manuals...
I can´t up documents yet, but you can see some information here:
ozebook.com/compendium/techbuls/
and parts here:
alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm
Your carbs are perfect ,the left carburetor have these tube for the starter.
I´m going to scan my manualls and i post it for you.
I have a bike like your´s.
I have a lot of information about it, books of maintenance, parts books manuals...
I can´t up documents yet, but you can see some information here:
ozebook.com/compendium/techbuls/
and parts here:
alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm
Your carbs are perfect ,the left carburetor have these tube for the starter.
I´m going to scan my manualls and i post it for you.
Wow, thank you so much! Anything you can help out with manual wise would be great. I appreciate the links, and it's good to hear that the carb is supposed to be that way, I wasn't sure about that.
Thanks again, let me know what you have.
I´m working on manuals:
meanwhile if you have any question, do not hesitate to ask me.
I'm also running electrolysis inside the gas tank right now. It's taking a while, but slowly and surely the rust is lifting off of the inside. After it is done, I'm going to coat the inside with a metal protector and hook it back up, and the bike, at least fuel wise, should be good to go. If it doesn't start after that, then I'll be able to begin narrowing down any spark issues I'm having.
There's my current update! All I need is a little bit of time and a little bit more money to buy some parts! I've already learned a lot about this bike, forget how fun this stuff was.
So it runs fine for 5 miles, then begins to stutter?
These Hustlers dont have to have a batery to run, but if you turn your healight off it will start easier. I now have a batery and it usualy starts 1st or second try cold. Hot is another story!
These Hustlers dont have to have a batery to run, but if you turn your healight off it will start easier. I now have a batery and it usualy starts 1st or second try cold. Hot is another story!
On the other hand, my Honda Gl1100 will not run without a batery because it has electronic ignition and electric start only.
It is interesting. It's just that not enough of each particular make and model were made to have a big enough fan group. The hondas have it pretty well, but with everything else, it seems like there is so few of them left.
As for mine, on hold. Parts parts parts, no money no money no money.
There is a shop manual for these bikes:
Haynes Suzuki 250 & 350 Twins Owners Workshop Manual/247Cc-305Cc-316Cc/1968 to 1978
Its a little hard to find and the information in it is, honestly, a little sparse. But, if you do have a question, I'll do my best to look it up, maybe even scan the appropriate page(s) and get them to you.
Busmoss, the manual says put the mixture screw settings at 1 3/4 turns out, start the bike, then adjust until the idle is smooth. You should do each carb individually by taking the plug boot off of the other cylinder.
I left the book at the garage, so I'll have to get back to you on the timing.
Good luck,
C$