View Full Version : Help me decide
Mr. O
08-26-2008, 07:05 PM
I have been looking at Craigs list alot. Here are a few I have found. I am somewhat of a big guy (5'11, 270 lbs):
1982 Kawasaki 440 LTD - $1200
-6K miles
-belt driven
1973 Yamaha TX500 - $1300
-17,300 miles
1985 Honda Rebel - $1500
-25,600 miles
I know it's recommended to start on a 250cc. I'm thinking, for the price and an eventual upgrade, should I knock two birds out with one stone? I would be spending less on more bike that would last me longer than the 250. Comments please.
Also, what the heck is belt driven? Is that to mean that a chain isn't used?
WACB650
08-26-2008, 07:31 PM
Mr. O,
when you purchase older bikes it's actually good and bad. The good is, most older bikes aren't as powerful as newer bikes therefore you really don't need to stick to that 250cc for the first bike stuff. I think any cruiser type bike 650cc or smaller will make an OK started bike. Also the bikes are old and you don't have to worry about crashing them or hurting them since they probably already have been broke in.
However, the bad would be that older bikes tend to need a little more work. I have two from the 80's that I am continually doing stuff to. If it's not one thing it is another. Also good luck getting a shop to work on an older bike as well.
So with that said, I would say any of those bikes would be great, but be prepared to do a little work on them to keep them running. I don't want to scare you away from riding, that's not my purpose here. I just want to give you options. Seemingly, all bikes need work to keep them running and most riders enjoy working on their bikes.
primalmu
08-26-2008, 07:35 PM
I'd go with the Rebel. I was considering a 1982 Kawasaki 440 LTD as my first bike as well and noticed that parts seemed to be hard to come by. I imagine the Yamaha would be even worse when it comes to parts (I've never even heard of the TX500, though admittedly I'm not "in the know" on older bikes). The Rebel, on the other hand, has remained pretty much unchanged since its debut. And with its age and mileage, I would think you'd easily be able to knock off several hundred dollars off the price. I paid $1750 for my 2002 Suzuki GZ250 with 4k miles. Check the NADA price for the 1985 Rebel.
As the saying goes, your first bike will not be your last bike. The great thing about the 250cc bikes is that they have a great resale value. I should be able to get 80-90% of what you paid for it next year when you sell it to upgrade. When you sell the bike next year you will only be out insurance + the difference between what you bought it for and what you sold it for. Seems like heck of a deal to me.
And yes, belt driven bikes use a belt in lieu of a chain.
Goliath616
08-26-2008, 07:37 PM
also yes, belt drive means the final drive (from transmission to rear wheel) is a belt and not a chain, less maintenance than a Chain, if it is belt driven, be sure to look at the belt, look for frayed edges, nicks and cuts, and if it has been stretched out.
Mr. O
08-26-2008, 08:33 PM
Thanks for the replies. I do like the Rebel and must say that it (the model) was my first choice when thinking about that "first" bike. I checked NADA and Kelly Blue Book. Here are the breakdowns:
NADA
-excellent condition - $750
-very good - $500
-good - $250
Kelly BB
-excellent condition - $1180
If I go with this bike, what should my asking price/firm price be? Would negotiating $850-$1000 sound right for this bike?
primalmu
08-26-2008, 10:58 PM
I'd say anywhere in the $1000-1200 range would be a good bet, depending on the condition of the bike. The best way to negotiate price is to have the cash on you when you look at the bike. If you like it, give a price and say you'll pay cash on the spot. You'll have a better chance of getting a good deal that way.
Do be sure to have the NADA and KBB prices with you to quote if need be.
Mr. O
08-26-2008, 11:01 PM
I'd say anywhere in the $1000-1200 range would be a good bet, depending on the condition of the bike. The best way to negotiate price is to have the cash on you when you look at the bike. If you like it, give a price and say you'll pay cash on the spot. You'll have a better chance of getting a good deal that way.
Do be sure to have the NADA and KBB prices with you to quote if need be.
I try to deal in nothing but cash! Majority of people find it hard to resist when there are $100 bills laid before them.
I thought I'd go ahead and print off both pages. I just thought that it was a substantial used price difference between NADA and KBB. Thanks for your help.
primalmu
08-27-2008, 09:38 AM
I've noticed that the motorcycle market is a bit unique. 250cc bikes are always in demand because they are cheap to buy, operate, and maintain. This supports the price of even older 250cc bikes. Then, you have gas prices inflating the price of ALL motorcycles, 250cc bikes in particular because the gas prices are driving new riders into the market. For this reason I think it would be pretty difficult to pay under $1000 for a bike that gets 70 MPG (heck, a Geo Metro sold around here for $5000 a few months ago!).
Also keep in mind that KBB and NADA are just a guide for motorcycle prices. Their car prices are more accurate due to the vastly larger number of car purchases they can analyze. There's no way I think you'd be able to get what NADA says the bike is worth. In fact, the NADA price looks more like a calculated prices than an actual price based on the market.
Hogrider
08-27-2008, 10:17 AM
I've noticed that the motorcycle market is a bit unique. 250cc bikes are always in demand because they are cheap to buy, operate, and maintain. This supports the price of even older 250cc bikes. Then, you have gas prices inflating the price of ALL motorcycles, 250cc bikes in particular because the gas prices are driving new riders into the market. For this reason I think it would be pretty difficult to pay under $1000 for a bike that gets 70 MPG (heck, a Geo Metro sold around here for $5000 a few months ago!).
Also keep in mind that KBB and NADA are just a guide for motorcycle prices. Their car prices are more accurate due to the vastly larger number of car purchases they can analyze. There's no way I think you'd be able to get what NADA says the bike is worth. In fact, the NADA price looks more like a calculated prices than an actual price based on the market.
NADA, National Automotive Dealers Association is based on actual reported sales and used by many states to value a vehicles worth in terms or registration as well as taxation.
primalmu
08-27-2008, 10:20 AM
NADA, National Automotive Dealers Association is based on actual reported sales and used by many states to value a vehicles worth in terms or registration as well as taxation.
Yes, I know, but that doesn't mean its up to date on the current market conditions. ;)
I just think it would be EXTREMELY difficult to find a used 250cc bike right now for under $1000, even if it is from the 80's.
Hogrider
08-27-2008, 10:29 AM
Yes, I know, but that doesn't mean its up to date on the current market conditions. ;)
I just think it would be EXTREMELY difficult to find a used 250cc bike right now for under $1000, even if it is from the 80's.
On the contrary, that exactly what it means as they are reported monthly and if you subscribe you will see the trends. Keep in mind, it does not reflect private party sales driven by emotion. At present, any running bike regardless of the size or year will bring $1,000 and yes, this is driven by the economy and higher fuel costs but it happens every time there is a large jump in the price at the pump.
bmjwright
08-27-2008, 11:00 AM
Assuming all are in the same condition, I'd get the Kawa 440. The Rebel is too small and it has a lot of miles. The Yamaha is older and has more miles.
Belt drives use a belt instead of a chain or shaft to transfer power to the rear wheel.