buellosaurusrex
04-28-2008, 10:46 PM
INSTALLING THE HSR-42
PART 1: REMOVAL
Since this is a common and very popular mod on the carb’d Buells, as well as the late-model Evo Sportsters, I thought I’d document the process for those of you considering it.
1) SECURE THE BIKE.
I have a Handy Lift with the front wheel cycle vise, which works extremely well. I realize most of you won’t have this luxury, but you really should have a way of securing the bike in an upright position besides the side stand. A set of front and rear-set stands should work well. So would a front wheel chock (over-centering-type). If you must use the side stand, use caution as you will be doing a lot of pushing and pulling on things. (see pic 1)
2) REMOVE PARTS FOR ACCESS
Start with the seat, naturally. One twist of the thumbscrew and it’s off! Put it in a safe place, out of harm’s way. Next, shut off the fuel and remove the fuel tank. It’s possible to release the fuel line clamp tension with a needle-nosed pliers without destroying it, if you’re careful. At this point, let me HIGHLY recommend taking pictures of every step using a camera; digital if possible! Thread bolts and screws removed back into the holes they came from after removing parts; this will prevent confusion down the line. Be careful lifting the tank off; if half-full, sloshing fuel can create a balancing issue while carrying it. You DON’T want to drop it.
Remove the stock Helmholtz box cover, or aftermarket induction filter setup if you have it. Remove the filter, snorkel tube, and box assembly. (pic 2) You should now be staring down the throat of your CV, unobstructed. (see pic 3)
Next, remove the breather bolts that thread into the heads and hold the carb mounting bracket in place. Note the position of the VOES switch in the above photo in between the black carb diaphragm cover and the upper frame tube. (You will have to reposition the VOES switch later.)
Here’s another picture of the stock VOES switch location on the CV-40: (next to throttle cables) (see pic 4 and 5)
You are now ready to pop the carb out of the rubber spigot mount. You should be able to rock it out with hand pressure, but if it proves difficult, a length of 2X4 or 2X2 works well. (Remember our discussion about securing the bike? Here’s why.) Once free of the spigot, You can move the carb about to loosen and remove the throttle cables. Here’s where pictures are invaluable!
Once you have the cables loose, disconnect the VOES switch plug. The carb drain hose may be ty-wrapped down in the cam case; simply remove it at the float bowl. If memory serves me right, the carb should now pull free.
OK- take a deep breath. Mission accomplished!
Be sure to block the now-open spigot (intake manifold) with a shop towel or other suitable plug.
PART 1: REMOVAL
Since this is a common and very popular mod on the carb’d Buells, as well as the late-model Evo Sportsters, I thought I’d document the process for those of you considering it.
1) SECURE THE BIKE.
I have a Handy Lift with the front wheel cycle vise, which works extremely well. I realize most of you won’t have this luxury, but you really should have a way of securing the bike in an upright position besides the side stand. A set of front and rear-set stands should work well. So would a front wheel chock (over-centering-type). If you must use the side stand, use caution as you will be doing a lot of pushing and pulling on things. (see pic 1)
2) REMOVE PARTS FOR ACCESS
Start with the seat, naturally. One twist of the thumbscrew and it’s off! Put it in a safe place, out of harm’s way. Next, shut off the fuel and remove the fuel tank. It’s possible to release the fuel line clamp tension with a needle-nosed pliers without destroying it, if you’re careful. At this point, let me HIGHLY recommend taking pictures of every step using a camera; digital if possible! Thread bolts and screws removed back into the holes they came from after removing parts; this will prevent confusion down the line. Be careful lifting the tank off; if half-full, sloshing fuel can create a balancing issue while carrying it. You DON’T want to drop it.
Remove the stock Helmholtz box cover, or aftermarket induction filter setup if you have it. Remove the filter, snorkel tube, and box assembly. (pic 2) You should now be staring down the throat of your CV, unobstructed. (see pic 3)
Next, remove the breather bolts that thread into the heads and hold the carb mounting bracket in place. Note the position of the VOES switch in the above photo in between the black carb diaphragm cover and the upper frame tube. (You will have to reposition the VOES switch later.)
Here’s another picture of the stock VOES switch location on the CV-40: (next to throttle cables) (see pic 4 and 5)
You are now ready to pop the carb out of the rubber spigot mount. You should be able to rock it out with hand pressure, but if it proves difficult, a length of 2X4 or 2X2 works well. (Remember our discussion about securing the bike? Here’s why.) Once free of the spigot, You can move the carb about to loosen and remove the throttle cables. Here’s where pictures are invaluable!
Once you have the cables loose, disconnect the VOES switch plug. The carb drain hose may be ty-wrapped down in the cam case; simply remove it at the float bowl. If memory serves me right, the carb should now pull free.
OK- take a deep breath. Mission accomplished!
Be sure to block the now-open spigot (intake manifold) with a shop towel or other suitable plug.