View Full Version : A little help
03-18-2011, 08:24 PM
I usually like to hang around this section of the forum and help if I can, but this time I am the one in need of help.
Today was a beautiful warm day in MA, so I finally rolled the bike (haul up the stairs) outside. I put the battery in, which was sitting on the tender all winter and threw in some fuel. After a few attempt, she fired up and is running a bit rough but I think I can tune her up over the weekend.
I have two issues, the first one is my starter switch. Sometimes I press on it and nothing happens. It seems like depending on how I push on it, it either works or it doesn't.
What should I look for? the switch assembly, the clutch switch? or is it something different?
Also after a quick ride, it stalled a few times and this time the starter was making a tiny little whiny noise...it felt almost like it barely had enough juice to crank. I guess I will check the battery while the bike is off and while running (granted I can start her again) and see what voltage I am getting.
I am so anxious to get back on the road and wish everything just worked they way it did before winter...
The bike is a 91 bandit 400
03-18-2011, 10:31 PM
The safety switch on the clutch is always a suspect, because it is a slide switch. If it gets dirty inside, poor contact is made. It can usually be removed and cleaned (watch for flying parts!), then a coating of dielectric grease will keep it clean a bit longer. The start switch could also need work, but it is less likely. Same treatment as the other. Last is the run/stop switch; sometimes the spring element in it softens, and needs a spacer to make it snap to position, or it just need a good clean and lube.
03-19-2011, 09:55 AM
thanks for the tips. Went through the switches and cleaned them up, no corrosion, everything looked good.
I am suspecting the relay, I am getting nothing out of it with the multimeter, I get voltage but no ohms...when I connected the two ends, the starter cranks.
So I will replace the relay and hope for the best.
03-19-2011, 06:27 PM
Also, check to see that the battery cables are clean and bright; a protective coating of grease after assembly will help keep them that way. Make sure the heavy cables are flexible at both ends, too; this includes the end of the ground cable at the frame.
03-20-2011, 03:55 PM
battery,the batterys today are junk
03-20-2011, 04:57 PM
I tried a few things over the weekend.
First, to rule out the battery, I jump started the bike from another battery which I know is good (my car). I made sure the car was not running...;). Still, no go.
I also jumped the starter relay and the starter spun, so I know I have juice from the battery.
At this point, I connected two wires to a 12V bulb, hooked up one end to the - side of the battery and went gremlin hunting.
I started at the kill switch, everything checked there.
Then the starter button, all good there.
Now, I move to the clutch switch (it is an old school one, two wires soldered to a small circuit board which get connected when the clutch is engaged). No juice there whatsoever.
So, if I am correct, the kick stand switch might be cutting the flow to the clutch switch...or so I think, I am not an electrical engineer...:frown:
I took apart the switch at the stand. Good thing I did, it was loose and ready to fall off. I cleaned it all up (It can't be taken apart so I couldn't inspect the interior) and put it back on. I saw a small shiny plate on the side of it that touches the stand, to make ground ???? not sure.
Anyway, after trying to open and close it a few times, I tried again. Still nothing.
So this is where I stand at the moment until the new relay gets here. I am not 100% sure that is my problem though...all I know is that there is a little critter somewhere.:mad:
03-20-2011, 09:13 PM
Looks like time for a wiring diagram. On Suzukis, the kickstand switch is paralleled with the neutral switch, so has no effect with the transmission in neutral. The run/stop switch provides power to the starter button, which then goes to the clutch switch, and from there to the starter relay. Because of that, there is no voltage at the clutch switch unless the start button is pushed. Don't know how yours is wired, just sayin'.
03-21-2011, 09:04 AM
ah, good point, I forgot to push the starter button in when testing for electricty at the clutch switch....will try that next.
03-25-2011, 05:32 PM
well, installed a new relay, still nothing. :(
so I took the battery to get a load test, and it was dead. I am charging a new battery right now and I hope tomorrow will be the day.
What I don't understand is that jumping it with the car battery did nothing and when jumping the relay, the starter spins....
If all fails, I don't know what else to look for.
03-26-2011, 01:19 PM
After installing the battery it would still not start....I was loosing hope.
I decided to run through the wires again with a light bulb and finally found a dodgy connection on the clutch switch cable in the headlight bowl.
I disconnect the switch cables and jumped them, and voila! Presto she started.
So now I will have to pay close attention when starting to make sure I am in neutral. I will eventually fix that but for now all I care about is riding.
Haaaaa..hearing that revy engine scream brings tears to my eyes....
Thank you all.
03-26-2011, 09:17 PM
Initially, you should be pulling the clutch lever anyway- so the starter isn't pulling the whole transmission along for the ride. It's easier on everything, but especially the battery.
Get some pictures up of this Tasmanian Devil bike. That is the only bike I ever had that scared me too much to keep. A little 400- what a freaking ROCKET!
03-27-2011, 09:41 AM
04-02-2011, 04:26 PM
I need some advise on a camshaft issue I found.
Before I stored the bike for the winter, the engine was hammering pretty loud.
During the winter I adjusted the valves and neglected to check that all the bolts were nice and tight in the cylinder head.
Now the bike is back out and running but that sound was still there. So thinking I did not adjust the valves correctly, I opened the cam cover again.
I discovered that the left exhaust camshaft holder was loose and the lobes on the camshaft look worned down and not nice and shiny like on the right side. Same thing happened to the intake camshaft on the left.
I re-torqued the cam covers and now the hammering sound is gone and the valves still chatter on the loud side.
Once again I opened the cylinder head and my question is, is it normal for the rockers to have about 1 mm vertical play on them when the lobe is not pushing on the valves? Or are my rockers bad as well?
I found two used camshaft that look in good condition and was considering replacing them, should I replace the rockers as well on the affected area?
The rockers also have some sideway play but by looking in there and examining the fiche I see that there is a spring on the same axle on which the rockers are attached.
Thanks for any advice you guys can give me.
04-02-2011, 09:55 PM
If the cam was damaged, the rockers got it too.
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