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post #81 of 366 (permalink) Old 10-17-2009, 01:27 AM
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Here is a link to an interesting story of how to get to 100,000 miles in 4 years, 7 months and 6 days...

http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43581

Rotella 15W-40 and still has the original... practically, EVERYTHING!
So much for damaging the clutch.

Eric
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post #82 of 366 (permalink) Old 10-17-2009, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67fire View Post
Here is a link to an interesting story of how to get to 100,000 miles in 4 years, 7 months and 6 days...

http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43581

Rotella 15W-40 and still has the original... practically, EVERYTHING!
So much for damaging the clutch.

Eric
There are just better oils out there... Rotella has just changed formulations and the CI-4 is no longer available as a Stand Alone. This just happened...

Rotella does not have Anti-Rust and Corrosion Inhibitors, which are necessary if you do not run the engine for a couple weeks or longer, does not have clutch performance additives and does not have Anti-Wear additives.

I have 42,000 on my bike in 2 years. Riding with bags and tour pack usually over loaded, 2 up and have pulled an over loaded trailer for well over half that time. So that 100 K in 4 years and 7 months is about right for me.. People have survived going over Niagra Falls in a barrel, doesn't mean we should all follow in their footsteps.

And imagine that on 9-10,000 mile oil changes...

REGARDLESS of Brand, Synthetic or petroleum, use a Motorcycle Specific oil with a JASO Rating, better yet, MA 2, but never MB.

If anyone tells you that there is no difference between auto/diesel and Motorcycle Specific oils, they are Wrong.

We didn't buy Motorcycles because they are cheap, so why try to save a buck when maintaining them..

And, if you want to save money, use an oil capable of extended drain intervals like I do. Twice the cost upfront but 3-4 times the drain interval, and better protection.. My time is worth too much money to fart around changing oil every 3000 miles. That would be every few weeks. I have too much money invested to try and save a nickel to ruin an $8000.00 engine.

Oil, is the Life Blood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

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post #83 of 366 (permalink) Old 10-17-2009, 07:14 AM
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LOL.... He did oil changes every 2000 miles....filter every 4K

Let's see.. just in oil for 10,000 miles that I do, that's at least $100.00 and now let's add in 2.5 filters which for OEM are at least $10.00...

So... He spends way over double of what I do in 10,000 miles and has to lay under that thing 5 TIMES more often....

Yep, speaks Volumes as to why (not) to use Rotella...

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post #84 of 366 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 12:26 PM
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New Second Edition of the "Study of Motorcycle Oils" - narrated online presentation

Interesting reading. Here's a link to a new Amsoil posted whitepaper analyzing 32 of the most popular motorcycle oils. I would encourage anyone interested to view the link in the yellow bar; "Click here to watch a voice over Powerpoint..." as this leads to a online presentation of the study. It goes into a lot of detail on how the tests are performed. If you want to know the facts regarding what lubricants perform, here they are. This test was conducted by a third party, not Amsoil, so results are not skewed. I can't post links in here yet, but the link to the online narrated presentation is on the Amsoil home page, bottom center, in a yellow bar, titled "Watch a Presentation About the AMSOIL Motorcycle Oil Comparative Study".



You can also get a free Amsoil catalog mailed to you by selecting the link on the left sidebar. - JL
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post #85 of 366 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlkansascity View Post
Interesting reading. Here's a link to a new Amsoil posted whitepaper analyzing 32 of the most popular motorcycle oils. I would encourage anyone interested to view the link in the yellow bar; "Click here to watch a voice over Powerpoint..." as this leads to a online presentation of the study. It goes into a lot of detail on how the tests are performed. If you want to know the facts regarding what lubricants perform, here they are. This test was conducted by a third party, not Amsoil, so results are not skewed. I can't post links in here yet, but the link to the online narrated presentation is on the Amsoil home page, bottom center, in a yellow bar, titled "Watch a Presentation About the AMSOIL Motorcycle Oil Comparative Study".



You can also get a free Amsoil catalog mailed to you by selecting the link on the left sidebar. - JL
I can't post links in here (yet) and I can'd private message due to the fact that I'm new. If you want the exact link, you can email me at;
info "at" oilshoponline "dot" com, sorry for those who PM'd me.
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post #86 of 366 (permalink) Old 11-17-2009, 07:38 PM
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How many pints of oil go into a 1992 1200 Transmission?
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post #87 of 366 (permalink) Old 11-17-2009, 07:53 PM
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A 1200 what ? Sporty ?

Doc
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post #88 of 366 (permalink) Old 11-17-2009, 08:25 PM
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Looks like a Goldwing.
Doesn't the engine and tranny share the same 4 Quarts?

Eric
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post #89 of 366 (permalink) Old 11-17-2009, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
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A 1200 what ? Sporty ?

Doc
Yes 1992 1200 Sporty. I have a 1995 883 and 1989 883also. They are all different. the 1995 takes 1 1/2 pints the other takes 2 pints.
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post #90 of 366 (permalink) Old 11-17-2009, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67fire View Post
Looks like a Goldwing.
Doesn't the engine and tranny share the same 4 Quarts?

Eric

I own three sportys, one Kawasaki, And a 2010 Goldwing. All are different.
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post #91 of 366 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 08:37 PM
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what roles do oil play rather than just keeping parts from touching inside the engine?
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post #92 of 366 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
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what roles do oil play rather than just keeping parts from touching inside the engine?

Keeping it cool
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post #93 of 366 (permalink) Old 02-28-2010, 11:32 PM
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Synthetic in CM400A

Anyone have an opinion about using a synthetic in a CM400A Honda.It's a 1980 model with 6,000 miles on it.I know the synthetic is OK for the engine,but I'm not sure how it will work in the automatic transmission.
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post #94 of 366 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumpinranger131 View Post
what roles do oil play rather than just keeping parts from touching inside the engine?
Oil has 4 Major functions.

Cool, Clean, Lubricate and Seal the engine

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post #95 of 366 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 10:07 AM
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Anyone have an opinion about using a synthetic in a CM400A Honda.It's a 1980 model with 6,000 miles on it.I know the synthetic is OK for the engine,but I'm not sure how it will work in the automatic transmission.
If the synthetic oil used has the proper API ratings, there is no problem.

I sell to quite a few Burgman owners.

Now, the API Ratings for 1980 are Obsolete, but I can help there as well.

If you would like to call or email me as it will be easier, please feel free. We can post later after cutting all the conversation so everyone will know the answer.

Toll Free to my cell 1-877-356-6099... email: AMSOIL@bestoil4you.com

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post #96 of 366 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 10:15 AM
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Yes 1992 1200 Sporty. I have a 1995 883 and 1989 883also. They are all different. the 1995 takes 1 1/2 pints the other takes 2 pints.
Well, looks like I dropped the ball on this one. I left for S GA then to be with the Honey for a week or so.

I sincerely apologize.

I probably opened the email notice so it wasn't hi-lited and then couldn't get to the forum with her dial up.

She will be up here in a couple months so that problem should be solved.

Still gets a little difficult when we are doing shows as some don't have Wi-Fi.

And the Motel we stayed in doing the Swap Meet in Moultrie GA didn't either.

The price we pay for "Modern Technology"

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post #97 of 366 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 09:27 AM
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I have a newly rebuilt Honda CB450. The oil dip stick states use 10w-40 oil. The bike is 40 years old. Should I stick with 10w-40 or go to 20w-50 for extra protection in stop and go traffic?

Case

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post #98 of 366 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 12:58 PM
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I have a newly rebuilt Honda CB450. The oil dip stick states use 10w-40 oil. The bike is 40 years old. Should I stick with 10w-40 or go to 20w-50 for extra protection in stop and go traffic?

Case
10W-40 Motorcycle Specific...

I realize that when the bike was new and, for many years thereafter, there was no such thing as Motorcycle Specific. The problem is the automotive oils have changed for the newer vehicles and oil technology has advanced..

As long as you use a High quality oil, 10W-40 is preferred. 20W-50 does not offer more protection, as many people think, if the engine was designed to run on 10W-40.

Factoid: 20W-50 will give you worse fuel mileage, less Horsepower, increased oil temperatures and more oil starvation at cold start.

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post #99 of 366 (permalink) Old 04-20-2010, 06:19 PM
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Is there any "break in oil" that I should be using? At first I was going to use car oil for the first fifty miles or so. Now I am thinking of using Valvoline 10w-40 MC oil and then perhaps trying a synthetic. Coments?

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post #100 of 366 (permalink) Old 04-20-2010, 10:25 PM
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I would stick with the Valvoline M/C oil for a nice 500-600 mile break in.. Change and run another 500 before going synthetic.. Keep an eye on consumption. If using oil, stay with Valvoline until oil useage stabilizes

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post #101 of 366 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 01:12 PM
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Rem Oil

I worked on my bikes carb for three weeks. The float needle had stuck in the up/ or full position. It wouldn't allow but very small amount of gas to flow thru.
I tried carburetor cleaner several times, then WD-40 . Finally I found the solution. Remington Gun cleaner. Comes in a 10 oz spray can. Called Rem Oil. This stuff really worked! Says it cleans, lubricates, and protects against corrosion.
So next time your cleaning your gun.....clean your bike. By the way...my bike is now running like a new one.
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post #102 of 366 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 07:56 PM
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To avoid having to disassemble the crbs, a good maintenance practice is to use AMSOIL PI every 4000 miles at a ratio of 1/2 ounce per gallon of gas. Use the remainder of the bottle in your car.

I use it in my Bike, Truck, Mowers, Generator Etc...

It is literally a Tune Up in a Bottle if you have gasoline issues.

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post #103 of 366 (permalink) Old 06-27-2010, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexmitchell View Post
As requested we are going to try out an Oil and Lubrications thread. Again this is not a thread for free advertising.
Interesting...

Eric
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post #104 of 366 (permalink) Old 06-30-2010, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
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To avoid having to disassemble the crbs, a good maintenance practice is to use ...
What does this have to do with Oil and Lubrication?
Is this stuff a carb lubricant, or as I suspect, a
manifold lubricant?
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post #105 of 366 (permalink) Old 06-30-2010, 08:34 PM
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General lube question here. My buddy's scooter says that it takes GL3-3 gear lubricant. It doesn't specify a weight. I have some 75w90 here at the house that says exceeds specs for GL5. Will this work? Or should we go find some GL3 rated?

1984 Honda Nighthawk 700S
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post #106 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-01-2010, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
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What does this have to do with Oil and Lubrication?
Is this stuff a carb lubricant, or as I suspect, a
manifold lubricant?
I think he was just referring to my previous post about Rem-Oil. I didn't use it as intended but it worked wonders. I got his message "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." My problem is that too many so called preventions contain alcohol which I'm told is already too high (10 %) in the gas around here, and hard on my 91 bike. My Bad!
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post #107 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-02-2010, 07:13 AM
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Actually I was referring to the carb
cleaner advertisement, which is
why I referred to it as manifold
lubricant.
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post #108 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
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What does this have to do with Oil and Lubrication?
Is this stuff a carb lubricant, or as I suspect, a
manifold lubricant?
A post was made about carbs... AMSOIL PI is a complete fuel system cleaner.

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post #109 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-20-2010, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daw840 View Post
General lube question here. My buddy's scooter says that it takes GL3-3 gear lubricant. It doesn't specify a weight. I have some 75w90 here at the house that says exceeds specs for GL5. Will this work? Or should we go find some GL3 rated?
GL-3 is an Obsolete Rating. GL-5 if it is for like a rear gear, GL-4 if it is a transmission.

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post #110 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-22-2010, 10:02 AM
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There's one thing a lot of people are missing here, and I see it talked about in a lot of replies, is how some oils will do mega miles before needing a change, and this is great if your riding you bike everyday or going to do a trip across the country and back and not interested in having to change oil in mid flight...

But in all reality, probably more than 90% of all bikes (probably more) would be lucky to cover two to five thousand miles a year. So who cares if an oil can do 30,000 miles.
Even Amsoil give a mileage and a time of 12 months between oil changes. An I believe that this 90% of bikes will need the oil changed because of time...

I know when I looked at specs on oils to do my oil change, and although Honda doesn't recommend full synthetic (because of the volatility of full synthetics), I still looked at all of them and finally decided on Motul 5100 (Semi Synthetic) after looking at all the performance spec sheets, it looked good to me. And it was more than 30% cheaper to buy than the equivalent full synthetic. Well around here anyway...

Just something else you should take into consideration when when choosing an oil for your bike... Just my two bits worth on this subject...

Wally...
2010 Honda Shadow Spirit VT750C2 FI...
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post #111 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-22-2010, 11:03 AM
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There's one thing a lot of people are missing here, and I see it talked about in a lot of replies, is how some oils will do mega miles before needing a change, and this is great if your riding you bike everyday or going to do a trip across the country and back and not interested in having to change oil in mid flight...

But in all reality, probably more than 90% of all bikes (probably more) would be lucky to cover two to five thousand miles a year. So who cares if an oil can do 30,000 miles.
Even Amsoil give a mileage and a time of 12 months between oil changes. An I believe that this 90% of bikes will need the oil changed because of time...

I know when I looked at specs on oils to do my oil change, and although Honda doesn't recommend full synthetic (because of the volatility of full synthetics), I still looked at all of them and finally decided on Motul 5100 (Semi Synthetic) after looking at all the performance spec sheets, it looked good to me. And it was more than 30% cheaper to buy than the equivalent full synthetic. Well around here anyway...

Just something else you should take into consideration when when choosing an oil for your bike... Just my two bits worth on this subject...
Looks like a little confusion on the conception of oils.

Yes, there is a time limit... On a Motorcycle it is OEM recommended Severe Service mileage or 6 Months. You should change before storing, not run engine after change and then warm engine and change again before riding. Although many people don't, that is Proper Storage Techniques for any engine.

With AMSOIL, you can go 2 times the OEM Drain Interval up to 1 year INCLUDING Storage due to the additive packs in AMSOIL.

All oils have different volatility and most petroleum oils are the worst. Some as high as 28% where AMSOIL, without looking, is around 6% so that doesn't make sense.

Most Dealers, mechanics and parts people will come up with this BS of not to use Synthetic for XXXX number of miles which is Hogwash or they come up with "It will make your clutch slip" which is also Hogwash.

The problem is using Auto or Diesel oils, whether Synthetic or Petroleum that do not have the Proper API and/or JASO Ratings.

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post #112 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-22-2010, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
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Looks like a little confusion on the conception of oils.

You should change before storing, not run engine after change and then warm engine and change again before riding. Although many people don't, that is Proper Storage Techniques for any engine.
And in rushes your friendly Amsoil salesman to straighten out the confusion......and add some of his own.

The proceedure you claim as "proper" for oil changes associated with storage is inaccurate because it only tells part of the story. For most typical storage intervals (3-5 months), all that crap is unnecessary and wasteful. Fresh oil circulated through the engine and then left alone will be just fine next spring; just as good as fresh oil from a bottle for any practical purpose.

When you approach storage intervals of a year or more, then what he proposes makes more sense......along with a few other things.....but not running the engine after the oil change makes absolutely no sense at all.

Beware "internet experts"; most aren't.

I too wondered about the "volitility" comment; I do think there is some confusion with that.
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post #113 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-22-2010, 02:00 PM
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And in rushes your friendly Amsoil salesman to straighten out the confusion......and add some of his own.

The proceedure you claim as "proper" for oil changes associated with storage is inaccurate because it only tells part of the story. For most typical storage intervals (3-5 months), all that crap is unnecessary and wasteful. Fresh oil circulated through the engine and then left alone will be just fine next spring; just as good as fresh oil from a bottle for any practical purpose.

When you approach storage intervals of a year or more, then what he proposes makes more sense......along with a few other things.....but not running the engine after the oil change makes absolutely no sense at all.

Beware "internet experts"; most aren't.

I too wondered about the "volitility" comment; I do think there is some confusion with that.
My statement of storage procedure is in fact correct for storage of a couple months or more.

Now, seeing that you wanted to start by condemning me instead of asking, I'll phrase it this way as my 38 years in business obviously doesn't count with you.

"Internet Experts", such as yourself, do not understand the concept of why that is a widely accepted practice.

Although I only gave part of the storage procedure, I was concentrating on the oil part.

What you and most people don't understand is that the oil loses TBN just by sitting and collects moisture. Any running of the engine, after the oil is changed, increases the level of contamination of acids formed by combustion by-products and moisture formed by running the engine. Which is also why you change the oil before operating after coming out of storage.

If you change your oil before storage, you are good up to 1 year. But heck, I guess me and OEM's are wrong.

BTW....I am not just a 'salesman'. I have owned and operated 3 shops Since 1972 and managed several others. I was also a Certified Tech, not a mechanic. I have been with AMSOIL Since 1984 and have spent hundreds of hours and many thousands of dollars in learning the subject at hand, Lubrication and Filtration.

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post #114 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-22-2010, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
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My statement of storage procedure is in fact correct for storage of a couple months or more.

What you and most people don't understand is that the oil loses TBN just by sitting and collects moisture.
Your opinion......... based on what you have been told......which is not necessarily "right" no matter how much "experience" you have.

Oil does not "collect" moisture and does not "lose" anything any quicker just sitting there than it does when actually in use.

If you do not STORE the machine, regardless of what it IS, beyond the recommended "time" change interval......which, incidentally is 12 months except for "severe" service in many cases.......changing out perfectly good oil IS UNNECESSARY AND WASTEFUL (stupid).

Any moisture that condensed inside the enclosed crankcase would be minimal and would be boiled off at the first use. If the machine is stored inside a relatively well sealed building, as most bikes are, the amount of moisture that condenses would be hard to detect.

As for not running the engine, that is short sighted too. Would you rather leave that worn out, acid laden old oil sitting in the bearings and races by itself for the whole storage period......or would you think it better to run the fresh oil through there and flush most of the old stuff into the sump??? I think most 5th graders could figure that one out.

Much of what you are saying is left over from storing your grandads Model T in the barn for the winter and really doesn't apply anymore.

This is not my first trip to the rodeo and I am not an "internet expert". My first engine rebuild was 45 years ago when I helped my Dad do his 2-bucket John Deere.

If you are going to claim to be a "qualified expert" you should update your information once in a while.......or take the word of those just trying to sell more oil with a little more skepticism.

How many bikes in the US would you guess......a couple of million ??
If everybody took this advice, based on 2 milliion bikes being stored for the winter, it would result in the SALE of roughly SIX MILLION additonal quarts of oil a year. But that certainly wouldn't be an incentive for oil sellers to be providing questionable information........would it ???

Last edited by Easy Rider 2; 07-22-2010 at 04:56 PM.
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post #115 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-22-2010, 06:52 PM
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The problem here lies in the fact that you don't understand and you came in here with a hard-on about an AMSOIL Dealer. Evidently, you have butted heads before because of your backwards thinking.

Oil collecting moisture, is only part of the equation. The next part is why you don't run the engine. Everytime you run the engine, combustion by-products are made of the burned vapors and moisture which form the acids that contaminate the oil. The acids are not stagnant and increase over time even when the engine is not running so why keep adding to the problem by running the engine and creating more acid. The TBN of the oil continues to deplete even in periods of non-running.

According to the API, over 97% of service is "Severe" and you should perform maintenance as such.

My information is up to date. You are trying to change the way things should be done without proper testing.


The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best


Doc

I do believe the maintenance interval from most OEMS is specified mileage or 6 months, not one year.
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post #116 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-22-2010, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oil Doc View Post
The problem here lies in the fact that you don't understand

Everytime you run the engine, combustion by-products are made of the burned vapors and moisture which form the acids that contaminate the oil.

The acids are not stagnant and increase over time even when the engine is not running so why keep adding to the problem by running the engine and creating more acid.
Yes, I understand perfectly. Your whole speech is BS.

Note above that "acid is produced while the engine is running"......but then, according to you, it continues to be "produced" while the engine is NOT running......but then to prevent further acid formation, don't run it. WTF ??

And the point is ridiculous on the face of it because the discussion was just about running it for a few minutes (or less) to distrubute the fresh oil.

And sure, you'd better believe that I've crossed paths with Amsoil salesmen in the past; lots of times. They always have a smooth story that also always falls apart on close examination. This case isn't any different.

I quit. Not worth wasting any more time. Anyone reading this should be able to figure it out for themselves.
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post #117 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-22-2010, 07:39 PM
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The only BS is what you are saying.

I surely have nothing to gain by telling someone how to properly maintain their engine with petroleum oil.

As for the "WTF" part... I apologize that you cannot understand some basic chemistry. Once the acids are produced by running, they continue to build which is what depletes the TBN. By running the engine, you induce even more acids into the oil which will deplete the TBN even faster.

You disable the spark to circulate the oil or if your bike allows, you crank it with the kill switch off.

Doc
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post #118 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-22-2010, 08:04 PM
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I've been a shop owner for a few decades and our store has stocked most all the popular brands including AMSOIL. Some work better than others considering the applications ie air cooled vs water cooled etc. but, there's a new kid on the block. It's called Dyna Cycle Oil. It's a small biker owned company that puts out a 20W-50 semi-synthetic at about $9.00 retail per QT. So what's so dang special about this oil? They claim that your four stroke motor will run at least 20 degrees cooler and your engine will last up to 50 percent longer or your money back. So, for giggles I started stocking some along with all the other brands. Sure enough, folks started reading the literature on the product and how it beat out most all the popular brands including AMSOIL and tried it. Turns out they love this stuff. All I've gotten back so far from any of our customers is positive feedback about this stuff. Has anybody else heard of this Dyna Cycle oil? I understand that they've only been out just a few years.
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post #119 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-22-2010, 09:03 PM
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WBW 2010 chain lube "comparison"

As of sometime in 2010, webbikeworld wrote that Dupont Teflon Chain Lube is still their favorite.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motor...lubes-2010.htm

I just thought I'd post this link. I was doing some web searching to find out what to buy for my first chain lube purchase.

Red 2009 Ninja 650R, 48mpg, 12.1s in the 1/4
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post #120 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-22-2010, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oil Doc View Post
I apologize that you cannot understand some basic chemistry. Once the acids are produced by running, they continue to build .....
Oh my GOD.....the acid is ALIVE and replicating itself.
What a crock.

Just for the record, I studied Chemistry in College until I decided to switch to electronics. What you are describing is vodoo not chemistry.
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