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post #41 of 366 (permalink) Old 06-29-2009, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe shmo View Post
I think my poor old 82 Honda cm 250 c is headed for massive failure :0( it semi suddenly started leaking a very slow drip of oil from the gasket at the top AND the middle of the engine! My only thought is that there might be excessively high oil pressure? I checked the valve cover gasket and it seems in really good shape and Im not sure how its leaking anything through there. Cant get to the middle one so easy without pulling the engine.

Any ideas?
Clean it up and figure out exactly where the leak is coming from....it may not be where you think it is.


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post #42 of 366 (permalink) Old 06-29-2009, 01:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe shmo View Post
I think my poor old 82 Honda cm 250 c is headed for massive failure :0( it semi suddenly started leaking a very slow drip of oil from the gasket at the top AND the middle of the engine! My only thought is that there might be excessively high oil pressure? I checked the valve cover gasket and it seems in really good shape and Im not sure how its leaking anything through there. Cant get to the middle one so easy without pulling the engine.

Any ideas?
It's doubtful that the oil pressure is too high. I can't think of anything that would do that on a bike engine. Most likely either the gasket is faulty or brittle, the metal is warped, or the bolts aren't torqued properly. I'd try a new gasket and torque the bolts to the spec in the repair manual first. As for the middle of the engine leak, if it's really bad, it may be worth pulling the engine to replace the seal. If it's not too bad, just wash the engine often and keep an eye on the oil level.

2008 XL1200R

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post #43 of 366 (permalink) Old 06-29-2009, 04:24 AM
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I still do not quite understand this in the first post: "Again this is not a thread for free advertising"
Yet by the time it makes it to post #7 it IS more than an advertisement?

Are there not posters that are flying an Amsoil Banner in every post?
If that does not count as advertising, what does?

Just some observations...

Eric
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post #44 of 366 (permalink) Old 06-29-2009, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe shmo View Post
I think my poor old 82 Honda cm 250 c is headed for massive failure :0( it semi suddenly started leaking a very slow drip of oil from the gasket at the top AND the middle of the engine! My only thought is that there might be excessively high oil pressure? I checked the valve cover gasket and it seems in really good shape and Im not sure how its leaking anything through there. Cant get to the middle one so easy without pulling the engine.

Any ideas?
Common problem on some bikes... Sounds like you are referring to the cylinder head or cylinder base gasket.

I have known people to change the base gasket by raising the cylinder enough to get the old out and new in without tearing her down. Seems like it would be less time consuming just to pull it down if you have the tools.

Doc
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post #45 of 366 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 01:25 PM
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Just some questions:

Why is it that in all of Amsoil's propaganda, that they never test against ALL other Synthetic oils? You know... Apples to Apples.

They only "pick" the ones that fall a little short (supposedly.)

And, why are they only sold by Dealers... Like Amway products?

If it was so good, wouldn't some mass marketer be selling it?

Eric
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post #46 of 366 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67fire View Post
Just some questions:

Why is it that in all of Amsoil's propaganda, that they never test against ALL other Synthetic oils? You know... Apples to Apples.

They only "pick" the ones that fall a little short (supposedly.)

And, why are they only sold by Dealers... Like Amway products?

If it was so good, wouldn't some mass marketer be selling it?

Eric
Eric.... People coming into a thread and starting crap about AMSOIL is why threads get shut down.

If you want to know something about AMSOIL start a new thread and PM me that you started one..

But, as it is here, I will answer what you have currently asked.. Future posts like these will need to be in a specific thread started by you.

Don't know what you have against AMSOIL or it's Dealers. I have been an AMSOIL Dealer for over 25 yrs now and also owned and operated several shops over a 35 yr period. I have taken Lubrication Specific courses over this period and invested many thousands of dollars to be knowledgeable about the subject. In other words, I am more than a salesman.

Now, you can ask someone who has invested their life in lubrication and filtration, or, you can ask a local mechanic where there is about a 99% chance that he knows little to nothing about the subject although he may try to impress upon you how much he doesn't actually know.

I personally asked for this Oil and Lubrication Thread so we could help people..

It is not just about AMSOIL...

AMSOIL had The line has to be drawn somewhere as some of these tests are quite expensive when you have several of the Top Testing Facilities in the US do the tests..

They could always do like the other companies do and wrap a rag around a bottle so you don't know who or what they are testing against. No, AMSOIL Names it's competitors in print where if the results were false, AMSOIL would be sued out of business.

ASTM Tests are used as they can be duplicated by anyone and within a reasonable margin of error. Unlike the so-called test where they are pulling down on a spinning disc to show a wear mark. That is a Falex Bearing test... A Test for gear lubes and is not valid as it has the human hand involved.

There are a few Chains that do carry AMSOIL and they got in before the 12 store policy went into effect to protect Dealers such as myself and Rex that built the company..

Wal-Mart has approached AMSOIL along with Pep Boys and Auto-Zone and were turned away as they do not want to abide by AMSOIL's Policies.. This isn't Burger King, they don't "Get It Their Way"

I hope this answered your questions

If not, Feel free to email me at amsoil@bestoil4you.com

Or call my cell at 407-209-7599

Doc
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post #47 of 366 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 05:16 PM
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Here's a simpler question that I can never seem to get a straight answer on.

Why is Amsoil only available by mail order? Is there nowhere in Dallas that I can just walk in and buy it off the shelf? I don't have a problem paying good money for good oil, but I can't justify adding shipping charges to the bill.

Amsoil is the only boutique oil (that I am interested in) that has this practice. Why make it more difficult and expensive than it needs to be? There's a performance shop 2 miles from my office that sells the entire line of Redline products. Does Amsoil not sell to retailers? (Not that I would ever suggest WalMart, or the like).
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post #48 of 366 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexmitchell View Post
A Again this is not a thread for free advertising.
LOL, So I guess your not advertising with your sig pic


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post #49 of 366 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by daw840 View Post
Can either you or rex PM me some info on getting a case of oil for my bike?
Well I guess it works


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post #50 of 366 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 08:13 PM
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Tdubb, note post #43. I whole-heartedly agree that this IS IN FACT AN ADVERTISING THREAD. I do not doubt that it is good oil. But whatever you do do not mention any other brands. Bad oil. Bad. bad, bad oil.
Now, go away!

Eric
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post #51 of 366 (permalink) Old 06-30-2009, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbdallas View Post
Here's a simpler question that I can never seem to get a straight answer on.

Why is Amsoil only available by mail order? Is there nowhere in Dallas that I can just walk in and buy it off the shelf? I don't have a problem paying good money for good oil, but I can't justify adding shipping charges to the bill.

Amsoil is the only boutique oil (that I am interested in) that has this practice. Why make it more difficult and expensive than it needs to be? There's a performance shop 2 miles from my office that sells the entire line of Redline products. Does Amsoil not sell to retailers? (Not that I would ever suggest WalMart, or the like).
AMSOIL Does sell to Retailers, as long as they meet our policies and wish to carry the products.

In your case, if you are close to Arlington, you can contact rexmitchell and he can set it up for you to pick up an order from the warehouse. You cannot just walk into one of our warehouses and purchase. Just like Sam's Club, Costco or other warehouse stores.

Dealers built AMSOIL. Al, the owner of AMSOIL, knows this and does everything he can to protect the Dealer Base. Wouldn't it be great if all companies were worried about their people like that..

What you are missing here though is that even Retailers pay freight and just add it to the cost. Unless they are close enough to a warehouse for pickup.

We choose to wholesale our products and pass the savings to the customers..

Doc
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post #52 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-01-2009, 09:38 AM
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AMSOIL Does sell to Retailers, as long as they meet our policies and wish to carry the products. Doc
And these retailers aren't listed on the Amsoil website, correct?
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post #53 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-01-2009, 09:43 AM
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And these retailers aren't listed on the Amsoil website, correct?
That is correct... Only T-1 Dealers are listed on the website.

A Dealer, is not a Retail or Commercial account.. it is an Individual Dealer.

If you know of any shops that would like to carry AMSOIL, please get Rex or Myself the information and we will gladly get them set up as a Factory Direct account or Dealer

Doc
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post #54 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 09:33 AM
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How lubricants like oil lower the coefficient of friction.

By transforming sliding friction into viscous shear. A lubricant adheres to the sliding surfaces and prevents direct surface-to-surface contact. Instead it allows relative motion by deforming in shear which requires less force than frictional sliding would.
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post #55 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-04-2009, 08:01 PM
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Use of Amsoil..?

I've got a '71 R75/5 and was considering using 20/50 Amsoil MCV. I was told some time ago, not to go this route in the older bikes....I'd like to hear what you guys think....
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post #56 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-04-2009, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Welcome to the forum Mark....I am going to move this to the oil and lubrication thread for you.


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post #57 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-11-2009, 09:35 PM
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Rex, Can you or Doc give me a reply to my previous question on Amsoil 20/50 in my old BMW. Also I would assume 75/90 gear lube in the tranny and rear drives would be best all around gear oil.....??
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post #58 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 10:14 AM
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Rex, Can you or Doc give me a reply to my previous question on Amsoil 20/50 in my old BMW. Also I would assume 75/90 gear lube in the tranny and rear drives would be best all around gear oil.....??
The limits to using Synthetic Oil in Anything is that it must be mechanically sound. The 20W-50 is the proper Viscosity for the BMW

The guy that owned the BMW place in Orlando before he passed away, was a huge AMSOIL Fan and sold the heck out of it.

I do not know what is called for in the tranny but if it is Gear Lube, I highly recommend our Product Code SVG. It is the top of the Line

If you can drop an email to AMSOIL@bestoil4you.com with the quantities required, I will work up a quote for you dropped on your door.

Doc
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post #59 of 366 (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 09:38 PM
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Doc and Rex are right. Amsoil is the best out there and they will stand behind their product...in writing. Amsoil goes way beyond needing to substanciate themselves, They give you the stats. All you have to do is read and reasearch. I grew up in the oil business and have 35 years being employed in it. Minerial oil is good stuff, top line synthetis are way better. For what it's worth......
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post #60 of 366 (permalink) Old 09-01-2009, 01:27 PM
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Winter storage/filter?

Which of the following three would be ideal. I will have approx. 1000 miles on motor since last oil and filter change.

1
Winter storage
new oil, new filter
Spring start up
new oil, new filter

2
Winter Storage
new oil, new filter
Spring start up
new oil, reuse filter

3
Winter Storage
new oil, reuse filter (approx. 1000 miles on it)
Spring start up
new oil, new filter
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post #61 of 366 (permalink) Old 09-01-2009, 02:04 PM
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I'd go with #1.....new all the way. I use Amsoil because I'm a dealer. I feel it's the best out there. Besides, even the more pricey syntheic is good insurance over the expense of engine problems...
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post #62 of 366 (permalink) Old 09-01-2009, 03:46 PM
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#1 is the proper way and don't start the bike during storage..

If you are using AMSOIL and the AMSOIL EA Series Filter, you do not have to change before storage or after storage as long as you will not exceed the 2 X OEM Mileage interval or 1 year.

Doc
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post #63 of 366 (permalink) Old 09-01-2009, 03:53 PM
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If using Dino oil, #1 is the best way.
I use synthetic and change both after the first long ride in the Spring.
Or, every 10,000 miles or so. Sooner, if it looks dirty. Often, twice a year just to pamper the bike.

Eric
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post #64 of 366 (permalink) Old 09-01-2009, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67fire View Post
If using Dino oil, #1 is the best way.
I use synthetic and change both after the first long ride in the Spring.
Or, every 10,000 miles or so. Sooner, if it looks dirty. Often, twice a year just to pamper the bike.

Eric
NEGATIVE:

Unless using AMSOIL, which is proven to go to 2x OEM drain intervals, I know of no oil, Synthetic or otherwise that is qualified or acceptable to attempt that drain interval without being verified without Oil Analysis.

You Cannot tell if oil is good by looking at it, feeling it, smelling it or even tasting it. The TBN, for one, could be totally depleted leaving your engine unprotected from normal acid build-up.

Just because it has a Synthetic Base (if it does at all) does Not mean it is capable of extended drains.

Doc
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post #65 of 366 (permalink) Old 09-01-2009, 06:57 PM
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I have been doing it for over 33+ years without any oil related failures so far...
Some, well over 300,000 miles so far.
Just Lucky I guess.
If it says EXTENDED DRAIN on the label, it MUST be a lie?
Big rigs that go over 35,000 miles on a change are also JUST LUCKY?
Oh that is right, I forgot for a moment, ONLY Amsoil is worth a d*mn!



Eric
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post #66 of 366 (permalink) Old 09-01-2009, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
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I have been doing it for over 33+ years without any oil related failures so far...
Some, well over 300,000 miles so far.
Just Lucky I guess.
If it says EXTENDED DRAIN on the label, it MUST be a lie?
Big rigs that go over 35,000 miles on a change are also JUST LUCKY?
Oh that is right, I forgot for a moment, ONLY Amsoil is worth a d*mn!

Eric
No Eric, NOBODY said Only AMSOIL is worth a D*mn except you.

How does ANYONE compare a Class 8 truck with a Motorcycle ? For one, only a FEW go the drain interval you are talking, and a little further and they are using Synthetic oils. Many are in the 15,000-25,000 range and hold 11-13 GALLONS of oil. That is 44-52 Quarts.

We are looking at an engine that is relatively easy on oil as far as pressures, slow RPM but hard with soot and fuel dilution. NO SOOT in a gas engine. and less fuel dilution is permitted in a gas engine than a diesel due to the lubricating ability of diesel fuel.

Oils, auto or diesel, can be used in motorcycles if they carry the proper ratings. There never use to be a Motorcycle oil but, as cars required different oils as time went on, oils changed and the need for Motorcycle oil came into play.

Most manuals will say JASO MA and/or an API Rating of SG/SH which incidently are ratings from the 1990's.

It is a Proven Fact, that when engines are stored with used oil and not "winterized" properly, TBN depletes and microscopic rust particles form on the ferrous parts. Cylinders and rings are ferrous. This was proven many years ago, (Before the inception of AMSOIL) and this hasn't changed.

Oils have changed in the last few months much less over 33 years.. Oh.. I have been riding for over 35 yrs, have over 37,000 miles in 2 years on my current ride, and have owned and sold 3 shops over that time period as well.

I learned early on that Oil, is the Life Blood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean. A High Quality product in both of those areas has Proven to increase engine life.

Regardless of Brand, Synthetic or petroleum, I recommend a Motorcycle Specific oil with a JASO MA Rating, better yet, MA 2, but Never MB.

Doc
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post #67 of 366 (permalink) Old 09-02-2009, 08:22 PM
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I find the oil information fascinating but, unfortunately, I have a hard time understanding the report. I have been using Mobil One in my cars since the early '80's. Although they advertised then that it was good for 25,000 miles I never went over 10,000. I wonder if there is a filter on the market that can go that long? I probably was romanced into Mobil One when I was convinced that the oil would not thicken in the dead of winter. That made sense to me.

Anyway, I am about to change from Spectro to Mobil One 4T on my 750F. I am motivated to make a change because the guy I buy the Spectro from is soon retiring and I won't have a local source. I wanted to give Mobil One a shot in the bike. The bike is mechanically strong. Do you think I am making a mistake changing to Mobil 4T? I could probably be convinced to use Amsoil if I had a local source for that. I am also interest in finding some good filters for my bike. Unfortunately, I can only find EMGO. Where can I buy Amsoil in SE Michigan? I would order by the case from TN but I need a price and I will probably have to speed a month digesting the oil report from further up this thread.
Thanks.

Chris
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post #68 of 366 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 01:57 AM
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I rmember when Mobil 1 came out with the 25,000 change interval. The words on the can (yes, it was cans then, LOL) wer almost a word for word copy of the AMSOIL can. They almost ruined the market back then and a lot of the misinformation spread about synthetics today stems fom that as it wa proven quite quickly that M-1 could not go the distance.

Synthetic base stocks have changed since then. M-1 EP still can't go that distance.

As for filters. There is not a better filter made than the AMSOIL EA Series filter and can go the distance (up to 25K with AMSOIL)

As far as AMSOIL for your use, I will contact you in a PM. I can take care of that.

Doc
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post #69 of 366 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 02:10 AM
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I want to explain something here.

People, sometimes have this thing about paying "Shipping", more accurately, Freight Charges.

Shipping, if not shown, is built into the price of Everything you buy. Even if it says "Free Shipping".

Right from the Penny Candies, to the house you buy.
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post #70 of 366 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oil Doc View Post
I rmember when Mobil 1 came out with the 25,000 change interval. The words on the can (yes, it was cans then, LOL) wer almost a word for word copy of the AMSOIL can. They almost ruined the market back then and a lot of the misinformation spread about synthetics today stems fom that as it wa proven quite quickly that M-1 could not go the distance.

Synthetic base stocks have changed since then. M-1 EP still can't go that distance.

As for filters. There is not a better filter made than the AMSOIL EA Series filter and can go the distance (up to 25K with AMSOIL)

As far as AMSOIL for your use, I will contact you in a PM. I can take care of that.

Doc
I was a partner in a lease on a Mobil station in the early '80's in downtown Birmingham. How well I remember the cans (cases and cases of them). We had a 3 bay garage and one bay was dedicated to oil changes. Mobil One changes were 26.95. 400-500 oil changes a month was pretty average. We were pumping about 150,000 gallons a month. Those were fun days.

Chris
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post #71 of 366 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 12:35 PM
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I always wished that I had saved one of those steel quart cans.
All of the "other" oils, came in the paper cans.

Eric
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post #72 of 366 (permalink) Old 09-15-2009, 11:52 PM
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More oil testing (independent )

Too many characters, pages and graphs for me to copy without breaking it into 6 parts!
Just go to the link at the bottom.
They even like Amsoil! (so, it should be a "safe" link.

All About Oil

This page Copyright © 2003-2007, by Mark Lawrence.
Email me, mark@calsci.com, with suggestions, additions, broken links.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

Eric
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post #73 of 366 (permalink) Old 09-17-2009, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67fire View Post
More oil testing (independent )


All About Oil

This page Copyright © 2003-2007, by Mark Lawrence.
Email me, mark@calsci.com, with suggestions, additions, broken links.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

Eric
It is a safe link..

I have corresponded with Mark a couple times. He is an Electrical Engineer by Trade with oil and filtration brought as a hobby.

Love how he recommends Rotella for the "Break-in" and his first choice of oils to run is AMSOIL and a couple other Synthetics.

Although the article needs to be updated as not only Motorcycle Specific oil has changed, but just oil in General over the last several months. It is still handy.

Unless you can recieve information from someone such as myself, most things are outdated by the time you read them.

Doc
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post #74 of 366 (permalink) Old 10-09-2009, 12:15 PM
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I have a couple of questions for you, Oil Doc.
They are about AMSoil because that's what
I use, but may apply to other oils as well.

The manual for my Virago 250 specifies
10w30. Now 4 years later the manual for
the indentical bike (now called V-Star 250)
calls for 10w40. I'm suspecting that the
change is to insure that the change is to
be sure that no friction modifiers get in the
system (10w40 isn't supposed to have them).

So now AMSoil motorcycle oil doesn't have
them in either the 10w30 or 10w40, so it
makes sense that either would be good
for me, right?

Now the real question is about the viscosity
index improvers that are in the oil. To make
the base oil go from 10w30 to 10w40 it takes
a higher percentage of these right. Doesn't
that leave a lower percentage of actual oil?
And when they break down, isn't the 10w40
oil more diluted than the 10w30? If this is
true, wouldn't the 10w30 actually be a better
oil, especially since the base stock in AMSoil
is really good?

Now to a totally different oil question. The
local AMSoil dealer had two kinds of 10w40
for sale. The regular oil costs about twice
as much as the 4-stroke oil. I was under
the impression that all crankcase oil was
4-stroke oil, and that only 2-stroke oil
was different. Is there something I need
to learn here? Can you explain the cost
difference?
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post #75 of 366 (permalink) Old 10-14-2009, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeadowHobbit View Post
I have a couple of questions for you, Oil Doc.
They are about AMSoil because that's what
I use, but may apply to other oils as well.

The manual for my Virago 250 specifies
10w30. Now 4 years later the manual for
the indentical bike (now called V-Star 250)
calls for 10w40. I'm suspecting that the
change is to insure that the change is to
be sure that no friction modifiers get in the
system (10w40 isn't supposed to have them).

Actually, Yamaha had some problems with running a light viscosity oil and went back to the 10W-40 spec.

In your case, you may not have a problem, but the Sportbikers sure did (blown engines). If you are not having a problem such as noises, you can stay with AMSOIL MCT 10W-30 or you can go with one of 2 AMSOIL 10W-40 oils, Product code AMO is an automotive oil with a JASO MA Rating, or I prefer and recommend the Motorcycle Specific MCF 10W-40

So now AMSoil motorcycle oil doesn't have
them in either the 10w30 or 10w40, so it
makes sense that either would be good
for me, right?

As stated above, As Long As you use the Motorcycle Specific oils, MCT 10W-30 or MCF 10W-40

Now the real question is about the viscosity
index improvers that are in the oil. To make
the base oil go from 10w30 to 10w40 it takes
a higher percentage of these right. Doesn't
that leave a lower percentage of actual oil?
And when they break down, isn't the 10w40
oil more diluted than the 10w30? If this is
true, wouldn't the 10w30 actually be a better
oil, especially since the base stock in AMSoil
is really good?

When talking a conventional petroleum oil, yes, a 10W-30 is more stable than a 10W-40.

With the AMSOIL M/C oils, they actually gain slightly in viscosity. I have seen oil temps of 275 on my bike (5 MPH, 11 mile ride, almost 100 outside) and had no problems with the AMSOIL. The petroleum oil in it originally was cooked on the same ride. Came out black as tar and almost as thick after only 660 miles. The AMSOIL went 9500 on that change, verified by Analysis.


Now to a totally different oil question. The
local AMSoil dealer had two kinds of 10w40
for sale. The regular oil costs about twice
as much as the 4-stroke oil. I was under
the impression that all crankcase oil was
4-stroke oil, and that only 2-stroke oil
was different. Is there something I need
to learn here? Can you explain the cost
difference?
One should have been AMO which is a Black Label. It does carry a JASO Rating but does not have all the good stuff in it that the MCF does. STILL a Great oil...

Double the price isn't right though... I will PM a couple prices to you..


Good isn't cheap
Cheap isn't good


Doc
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post #76 of 366 (permalink) Old 10-15-2009, 12:22 AM
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I have a '96 Honda Shadow 1100 A.C.E. with 11,700 original miles on her and am ready to change the oil. I have read of adding some Seafoam to the oil.
Could you tell me how much Seafoam should be added and how long I can run it, or should it just be idled for 15 and drained so as not to engage the clutch?
Also, which viscosity would you recommend?
I'd like to first run a petroleum based oil for a few hundred miles, then switch to a full synthetic.
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post #77 of 366 (permalink) Old 10-15-2009, 10:13 AM
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I am not a believer in adding anything to oil unless there is a problem. If there is a problem, go for it, it can't hurt anymore. 2oz per qt of oil and run 150-200 miles.

If you choose to run Seafoam or any other additive, it is a good idea to flush it with a petroleum oil as you are talking.

I would go to your local M/C Shop and get some 10W-40 or 20W-40 (same thing) M/C oil.

IF you choose an auto oil, look for the API SG/SH Rating on the back label.. NOT HIGHER.. SG/SH or it must have the JASO MA Rating if the API is above the SG/SH.

I don't care about the people that say "this or that is OK to run". They are wrong !

I want you to run the proper Spec'd oil for the application REGARDLESS of Brand.

If you need answers faster, feel free to text me 4072097599, try calling, 1-877-356-6099 or email me oildoc@bestoil4you.com

Doc
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post #78 of 366 (permalink) Old 10-15-2009, 11:01 AM
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I'll defer to Doc in regards to motorcycles,
but I'd like to add my experience with oil
in tractors. The crud that builds up inside
their crancases is best left there until
overhaul. Putting anything in that will
"clean it out" will make it move from where
is safely resides into the rest of the engine
where it can cause all sorts of damage.

If the seafoam would instantly dissolve
the crud, (rather than loosening it so it
moves) it would be great. Nothing does
this besides some good solvent and a
brush.

The idea that you can't break what's
already broken doesn't apply here unless
you already see a con-rod sticking out
the side of the crankcase.

I think Doc would agree that the oil is
there to lubricate and cool the engine,
not to wash it.
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post #79 of 366 (permalink) Old 10-15-2009, 06:10 PM
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"IF you choose an auto oil, look for the API SG/SH Rating on the back label.. NOT HIGHER.. SG/SH or it must have the JASO MA Rating if the API is above the SG/SH."

Thanks Doc,
Would (conventional auto oil) 15W-40W Shell Rotella T with an API rating of CI-4,CI-PLUS,CH-4,CF-4,CF/SM.SI,SJ suffice?
I must admit, all of these letters are confusing.
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post #80 of 366 (permalink) Old 10-15-2009, 10:16 PM
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That is why I tried to simplify it... It is easy to get confused with ratings, viscosities Etc... Many people use Rotella... Rotella has also just recently changed their formulation and no longer has a Stand Alone CI-4.

Rotella has No SG/SH and No JASO MA.

If you don't want to call me for AMSOIL, buy Mobil 1 Racing 4T. It is a very good oil... Look for a WIX Filter or NAPA Gold.

Good isn't cheap
Cheap isn't good


Doc
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