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post #361 of 366 (permalink) Old 02-12-2016, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by hogcowboy View Post
You mean you can't tell I'm totally impressed with Chinese scoots?
I am guessing you really appreciate their worth and value.

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post #362 of 366 (permalink) Old 02-13-2016, 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Laamapalmu View Post
Is it possible to make a pre luber so the oil circulates for a while and then start the engine to reduce wear. I always let the engine run atleats 2 mins on idle before riding but sometimes like 3 days of no driving can make it so that all parts are dry.

If it's possible, is there guide and is it hard, or should I just take the spark plug off and let it spin for like 5 secs and then connect the spark plug wire again. Also I'm thinking of If I could get a stand cheaply so the bike would be on flat surface and the oil would stay on the heads.
No way will the oil dry out in a few days or even months.
If you do take the plug wire off, make sure to ground it before you spin the engine or you could 'pop' some electrics.
But I see no benefit in spinning the engine anyway.
One thing (if possible) is to fill the oil filter with oil when you change the oil/filter so the oil circulates quicker on start up.


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Originally Posted by Laamapalmu View Post
Well we are talking about a chinese engine here, and I don't really know. Just a cool feature to have.
Here in the USA those bikes are throw away machines anyway cause there is NO hard parts network for them.

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Originally Posted by hogcowboy View Post
Well in that case if it's still running after 2 years you are lucky. Any pre-oiler you put on it would be worth more than the whole bike.
Probably true hog.
A family member bought one (without talking to me first) and asked me to help prep it. Many of the bolt heads were out of shape.
Guess they expect you to use channel locks on the hardware.
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post #363 of 366 (permalink) Old 02-13-2016, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by SemiFast View Post
No way will the oil dry out in a few days or even months.
If you do take the plug wire off, make sure to ground it before you spin the engine or you could 'pop' some electrics.
But I see no benefit in spinning the engine anyway.
One thing (if possible) is to fill the oil filter with oil when you change the oil/filter so the oil circulates quicker on start up.



Here in the USA those bikes are throw away machines anyway cause there is NO hard parts network for them.


Probably true hog.
A family member bought one (without talking to me first) and asked me to help prep it. Many of the bolt heads were out of shape.
Guess they expect you to use channel locks on the hardware.
Well for me it dries quickly in couple of days, and at one point it was sitting on garage for 3 weeks and the heads were completely dry.

Where did all the compression go?
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post #364 of 366 (permalink) Old 03-20-2016, 08:56 AM
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I went into a motorcycle shop and just asked for the oil change kit for my 05 Suzuki s40. I got 3 quarts and a filter. This bike takes 2.1 quarts. First time changing the oil so it took a little while but wasn't too bad.
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post #365 of 366 (permalink) Old 03-20-2016, 11:15 AM
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Save that left over .9 quarts and every 4th oil change will only cost you a filter.
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post #366 of 366 (permalink) Old 03-20-2016, 01:29 PM
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Buy the oil by the gallon and save even more money.

We buy T6 in 30 gallon cans and filters online. Go through nearly half of that on the bikes alone per year, the rest goes to tractor oil changes.

Buy tires from dealer, get them for 50% off MSRP, paid for the Weaver tire changer in just a couple years.

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