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post #1 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-14-2008, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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rusty gas tank - anyone use rusteco?

Has anyone any experience using rusteco rusteco.com to clean gas tanks (or other rusty parts) on their bike? sounds like snake oil to me, but if it works, it sounds awesome. curious.

edit: also found out about EVAPO RUST. anyone try that?

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post #2 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-15-2008, 04:02 AM
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tranceamerica,
I have not used EVAPO RUST or rusteco before. Which is suprising because I have tried fixing so many rusty tanks. I think my favorite method is eletrolysis. If you would like a link to a great how to, let me know. If you are sold on the EVAPO RUST or rusteco take some pictures and do a good how to for us to take a look at. Let us know how it goes. Hopefully someone on here has some experiece they can tell you about.

What are these items sold for, application wise?

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post #3 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-15-2008, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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both are sold for removing rust. rusteco is specifically billed for removing rust from gas tanks. both claim to be safe/environmentally friendly, FWIW.

Yes, I'd like to see the link about eletrolysis.

I'm thinking I'll try EVAPO RUST, as I can buy it locally. It's a chemical you dump into the gas tank, swish it around, let it sit then rinse it out.
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post #4 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-15-2008, 05:30 PM
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Here ya go, http://650rider.com/Content/pid=6.html . Also there are a lot of videos on www.youtube.com . Just search electrolysis and watch a few it is great.
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post #5 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-15-2008, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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I'll try the EVAPO RUST first - fairly cheap, and if it works, fast. (1/2 hour or so). Then I can post either a "this product rocks" or "this s**ks". report with pics. And, if it doesn't work, I can try the electroloysis.
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post #6 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-16-2008, 04:13 AM
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sounds great, keep us posted.
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post #7 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-16-2008, 11:39 AM
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I have to hear more people doing the electrolosis deal. It sounds cool, but would be dangerous. To have that hooked up for several days, is a big risk to me. I'm sending my tank to a shop. They will probably perform the same procedure and coat it for $100. I don't think I could get any sleep at night while a battery charger is running into water in my garage. I wonder if that cleaning soda would be good to use to just clean the inside of the tank, though.
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post #8 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-16-2008, 04:21 PM
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Wow, thanks for the link WAC. While I have definately heard of electrolysis method, is it really this easy? I am guessing it makes sense. The only thing the guy left out was what setting to set the charger on, i.e. slow or fast charge.

How dangerous (i.e. - explosive ) is this method (obviously so long as the gas is ALL out?

I am supposed to be getting an older barn bike (82 Suzuki, I think) for like $100 from this guy next month that I plan on using as a project bike. I am sure the tank is rusted on that. I think I may try it on that before I try it on my Cb350.

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post #9 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-16-2008, 10:11 PM
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mike,
I used a homemade charger (yeah I know way dangerous) when I did this to my CB tank. The reason was because the charger I have is a smart charger and it would automatically turn off when putting it into the solution. When doing this you will need an older charger that doesn't have an automatic shut-off. From another forum the guys say the 2amp setting is the best to use for this. But any setting will work.
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post #10 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-17-2008, 09:36 AM
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Yeah, I went the cheap route and got the one without the automatic shut off.

Thanks for the info, it will be a while before I do this, but like to know the info anyway.

One more question - does it really get ALL the rust off?

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post #11 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-17-2008, 07:29 PM
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If it isn't too horribly rusty it does a great job. If there is quite a build-up of rust I think eventually it will get it off, but it may take a while. I would suggest putting a bunch of sand in the tank and shaking it a bunch to try and break down a bunch of the rust. This will help with the process.
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post #12 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-17-2008, 11:50 PM
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Yikes! Sand in the tank - I do not trust myself to get all of that out, so I will stay away from that!

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post #13 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-18-2008, 01:40 AM
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Actually sand is really easy to get out of the tank with a lot of water from a hose. It tends to rise to the occasion. Another thing when you are done with the electrolysis the tank will be covered with black soot. It's pretty much the rust turning into black soot. A good pressure washer will do the trick. Then to get rid of the water a good bath of rubbing alcohol swished around the inside of the tank. I don't remember if the how-to mentioned that or not so I thought I would throw it in.
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post #14 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-23-2008, 12:08 AM
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News. I dropped by the parents farm a few days ago and tried the electrolysis technique on the rusty gas tank from one of my '74 XL 175s. Very rusty beforehand. I left it there overnight and asked my father for a report the next day. He said he didn't see any rust remaining after he hosed it out. I haven't seen it yet, but that's pretty cool. I'll send pictures when I get there! Unfortunately, no pictures beforehand. However, I'll tell you what I did before that. I turned the tank upside down and shoot it. A pile of rust about 4 inches in diameter and a quarter inch high came out. WOW!
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post #15 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-23-2008, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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guy at the motorcycle shop mentioned that rocks can help break up the loose rust too.

I'd think if you used gravel (1/4" diameter or larger?) it'd do a similar job to sand, but w/o the worry about getting it stuck in the tank (you'd hear loose pieces rattling around)

Just a thought, since I haven't tried it, I don't really know how it works.

I don't have a battery charger, but maybe will get one so I can keep the MC battery charged up too. Then i can do the electrolysis method.
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post #16 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-23-2008, 07:28 PM
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I would be leery about shaking rocks inside of a 20 year old gas tank. I could see the puncture marks now.
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post #17 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-24-2008, 01:17 AM
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On the instructions for the Kreem that I have (but haven't used yet), it actually says to use gravel. I guess if the tank is so badly rusted that gravel can puncture it, it should be replaced anyways.
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post #18 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-24-2008, 01:43 AM
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yeah, that would be a good idea to get rid of it. I thought my Kreem directions said use nuts and bolts because they didn't have sharp edges like gravel.
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post #19 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-24-2008, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hansen_jw View Post
News. I dropped by the parents farm a few days ago and tried the electrolysis technique on the rusty gas tank from one of my '74 XL 175s. Very rusty beforehand. I left it there overnight and asked my father for a report the next day. He said he didn't see any rust remaining after he hosed it out. I haven't seen it yet, but that's pretty cool. I'll send pictures when I get there! Unfortunately, no pictures beforehand. However, I'll tell you what I did before that. I turned the tank upside down and shoot it. A pile of rust about 4 inches in diameter and a quarter inch high came out. WOW!
I've been thinking about doing this with my tank this winter. I have minor surface rust on the inside, so I installed a fuel line filter in the mean time. Gas seems to be clean coming out of the tank. Can't wait to see the pics. Was it hard to set up? I saw a diagram of it somewhere, but now I can't find it.
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post #20 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-24-2008, 02:32 PM
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It wasn't too difficult. The most difficult part was trying to seal the petcock hole. After that, all I did was find a bottle cap that fit nicely over the filler hole, punched a couple holes in it, installed a wire coat hanger, filled it with water and washing soda (not baking soda), and hooked it up to the charger. It probably took me a couple hours, but I worked slowly.
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post #21 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-24-2008, 02:34 PM
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Did you just clean the inside? The diagram I saw had the entire tank dunked in a 55 Gal Drum. If I find it, I'll post it here.
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post #22 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 01:50 AM
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The one I tried only involved filling the gas tank with the washing soda mixture and not dunking the entire thing. I'm interested in trying the entire thing but I don't know if it would do anything to the paint on the outside. Let me know how that goes if you try it!
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post #23 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 03:47 AM
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Emerging the entire tank will do a good job removing rust from the outside of your tank but will not touch the inside. It's pretty much what ever is in sight of the anode is going to get the treatment. The electrical current cannot go around corners or through the medal tank. If you want to get the inside you need to put the water and anode in the inside of the tank. If you want to do the outside put the water and anode in the outside of the tank.
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post #24 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
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...It's pretty much what ever is in sight of the anode is going to get the treatment. The electrical current cannot go around corners or through the medal tank...
That's what I was wondering about. Thanks for the info.
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post #25 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-29-2008, 02:09 AM
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The first try didn't completely clean out my tank, so I have it set up for another run. Here's a picture of my setup.
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File Type: jpg 100_1928.jpg (56.5 KB, 280 views)
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post #26 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-29-2008, 03:09 AM
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I think I know why it didn't work so well. Your charger is what they call a smart charger. If you watch it after about 15 minutes it will shut off and stop charging. I have a charger identical to that one and had to make a charger that wasn't smart to prevent it from turning off automatically. Or you can stick with this one and keep turning it off and than on every 15 minutes or so.
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post #27 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 12:36 AM
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Thanks for the advice! I noticed that it went into the trickle mode after a few minutes, but it was still making the coat hanger dirty, so I figured it was ok. I'm going to borrow my dad's old 10 amp charger from the '60s. That ought to do it.
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post #28 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 11:03 AM
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I tried evapo rust on my tank. I bought two 32 oz bottles from autozone. Every hour or so I'd reposition the tank. At the end of the day I emptied it out, rinsed it with some water and then some acetone and checked it. There was still some surface rust in there. The main problem with evaporust is that it's expensive as hell. 2 32 oz bottles isn't enough to really get all of the nooks and crannies in the tank. I'm sure that if you bought enough to come close to filling it up then it would work fine, though. I'm just not going to spend $40-$50 on a couple of gallons of the stuff when there are cheaper options out there.
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post #29 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 01:35 PM
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^^ Hhmm...that set-up looks very intriguing! Please let us know if it works out successfully, as I have some other things that might work on.

When I did my tanks I used a product called “RustBlast” (KBS makes it) which is supposed to be biodegradable (for those Eco-Warriors - @U). Worked pretty good and got into all those hidden nooks and crannies. You could always use muriatic acid (hardware store) but only if you plan on repainting.
post #30 of 89 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 05:52 AM
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Electrolysis is very eco friendly and very cheap!
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post #31 of 89 (permalink) Old 12-31-2008, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
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The first try didn't completely clean out my tank, so I have it set up for another run. Here's a picture of my setup.

Well I just picked up a 74 Honda cl360 with a rust factory in the tank. Did this workd with that charger, Hansen? I have that same trickle charger. Any other tips on just CLEANIING out the tank without the electrolosis or after the electro?

1974 Honda CL360
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post #32 of 89 (permalink) Old 01-01-2009, 01:04 AM
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wonder if my old forney arc welder would do the job lowest it goes is 20 amps guess i could do a step down trans former.
post #33 of 89 (permalink) Old 01-01-2009, 10:30 PM
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I did the small nails first -shaking it different directions for as long as Could stand maybe 5 mins. with vacuum in between, the the evapo-rust in 24 hour shifts in different positions 4 and when complete spray gas into tank to prevent flash rust. The cost $ 60 total, labor 10 hours. Big pain but it is really clean.
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post #34 of 89 (permalink) Old 01-02-2009, 06:57 PM
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So, I'm gonna try the charger thing. I have some washing soda. It's not 'Arm and Hammer' it's "Oxy Clean." I'm gonna fill the tank with water and some of this cleaner and see what happens. I'll post some before and after pics.

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post #35 of 89 (permalink) Old 01-07-2009, 10:20 PM
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Well it worked GOOD!!! I forgot to take a before pic, but it was pretty bad inside there. I left it on all night with my good old charger. It won't shut off. My " moto battery maintainer" wouldn't even turn on in that water, but the old one worked. I will put it on again tonight and clean off the anode every couple hours. Check this out! This is a coat hanger after about 12 hours!

[IMG][/IMG]


[IMG][/IMG]

1974 Honda CL360

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post #36 of 89 (permalink) Old 01-07-2009, 11:11 PM
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that picted up some gunk!
post #37 of 89 (permalink) Old 01-08-2009, 01:01 AM
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Yeah, I'm stoked! After I clean it, I'm gonna need to fill it up with gas quick. I'm afraid it's gonna rust up.

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post #38 of 89 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 09:42 PM
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could you put steel shot inside the tank and shake it to get rid of the rust...kinda like sandblasting with the steel shot?


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post #39 of 89 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 09:49 AM
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i used to clean gas tanks by putting in old nuts bolts etc. and shake till my arms ready to fall off. yes you can do it this way. but the electrolysis ways is easy and through. not yet had a chance to try it.
post #40 of 89 (permalink) Old 01-12-2009, 09:22 PM
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like how much rust does it get? because I have an older tank (yamaha 94) and it has rust on the inside (when the tank is dry you can get dime sized chips out) so I mean does that like peel it off? or do I need to shake it with the nuts and bolts thing? also on the filler part of the tank it has a huge lip does that cause problems for getting the nuts and bolts out?

thanks
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