1968 Honda 160 Scrambler Wont charge - Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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1968 Honda 160 Scrambler Wont charge

Honda 160 scrambler -

I cannot get it to charge - and i have tried 2 other new style rectifiers and still no luck, my question is then how do you test the stator and what wires should have what voltage

What i know 3 wires come off the stator brown pink(or red) and yellow the brown and yellow go up to the rectifier and i have also checked for shorts within the wire's to make sure there is no ground -

How do you test using a digital meter the voltage coming out of the generator and how much voltage should i get, along with how to i test the ohms across the wires on the stator wire to wire or to ground or what and again what should the voltage be
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-11-2012, 03:28 PM
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To test the stator run the bike at idle and disconnect the battery terminals. If the bike stays on then its not the stator if it turns off then you know you have a problem...
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 05:57 PM
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charging system 101

To start off, congrats on the CL160.They are not to common anymore.As for the chrging system,removing the battery cable while the bike is runnig can(and many times does) cook the rectifyer.You see on these early bikes the battery is the voltage regulator,so if you take it out of the system and run the bike you can spike the voltage causing damage to at least the reckitifyer.To check to see if it is charging use a volt meter(d/c volts) across the battery while the bike is running.At about 5,000RPM you shoud have about 13 - 14.5 volts.If you do not increase the voltage of the battery when the bike is running,it is not charging.The problem could be the stator or the rectifyer.Checking the stator is two fold.check with ohm meter and volt meter.With ohm meter between each of the wires for both continuity between them and resistance.also check with ohm meter between each of the leads and ground.There should be no continuity between any of the stator leads and ground.If it passes these tests use the volt meter to check output of the stator while the engine is runnig(between the leads).From what I remember thwe pink is the common and the yellow is two coils,the yellow and white is four coils.The two coil lead shoud be about 40 or more volts at 5,000RPM and the 4 coil one should push 50 at least.
Got to go back to work now hope this helps you a little.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Northey View Post
The two coil lead shoud be about 40 or more volts at 5,000RPM and the 4 coil one should push 50 at least.
If that is a true alternator, then the voltage at the stator leads will be AC, not DC.

That is about the time they were switching over from generators with brushes so you'd have to see a wiring diagram or shop manual to know what you really have.

IF it has a rectifier unit AND a seperate regulator, then it would be AC coming from the stator (alternator). If it has ONLY a regulator, then it likely would be DC.
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