You base your facts on something that you heard by word of mouth, seems to have about the same validity as what I was saying seeing how you can't prove that what I am saying is wrong and you base what you are saying on what someone told you. Oil will be affected sitting in an engine over the winter, affected to the point of critical failure, no, I never said that though. I said it would be a good idea and you should change it after the winter. Also you saying fuel stabilizer is not needed is untrue, google winterizing a motorcycle and its one of the first things they say to do, right before changing the oil.
You mean how Honda and BMW trains it's mechanics is wrong? That the fact that no oil tesing has been presented to demonstrate that breakdown of oil in a short period when not used is wrong? That the fact that manufacturers don't change oil after running, much less recommend a drain and refill when new and in the crate after up to a year on a current model is wrong? All three are upon what I base my comments. The other is that most printed information does not back up the intervals, with the exception of what some of those with a financial interest in the shortened intervals will say. The 3000/3 interval is based on oil use before multigrade detergent oils and old metalurgy. It survives based on opinion and "what worked for my dad, my dad's dad, and his dad's dad". In other words it's held on since the metalurgy, straight grade non-detergent oil, and engineering of the 40s was the norm, not the modern multigrade oils and superior metalurgy and engineering of the present.
You're the one who made the comment "we will start seeing threads next spring of bikes not running great, bad shifts, etc. " If that doesn't hint of critical failure I'm not sure what it hints of.
As for fuel stabilizer, I didn't say not to do it. We used to tell people to do it when selling. I'm just telling you what I've done, knowing what I've learned in the industry, in engineering, and in research pertaining to the subjects. I know if I fill my tank full before I park it, all I have to do is drain the carb in the spring (or whenever) and the bike will fire up and run fine. That has worked for about the last 25 years, even with the poorer quality of fuel sold now. I also know that my changing of oil every 5000 miles in the car was not an issue when it came to warranty at the dealership, and it hasn't been an issue with my 43,000 miles on the KLX based on seeing the inside of the engine in the cam area about once a year, and the fact that I've never seen an oil failure at the dealership while there and none of the mechanics could relate a story to me. I have seen failure to put oil in and also putting a filter in incorrectly (Honda 250s) causing failure due to lack of oil, but that wasn't the oil.
In other words, I research and observe and question. When facts are present I make a decision based on them, not on "people have told me" or "my buddy says". I want to know why they say that, what backs it up. One guy changed his oil every 800 miles regardless. Another runs synthetic Mobil and changes every 15,000 miles with well over 100,000 miles of proof that it works for him. I do what I believe works for my use. I change at 5000 on the KLX because it runs in dust and I use petroleum based oil. If I ran synthetic on the road I'd likely do more like 8000, based on what I've learned, not on what I've heard.